Chainsaw Woes

[Bill Grumbine]

Hi Stefan

Pictures make things so much clearer! If it were me, I would clear an area behind the tree for running, and yes, I can run, at least for short distances. Then I would bind the tree as Paul describes. Finally, I would make a horizontal cut on the outside of the curve. As SOON as I heard wood starting to crack, I would be on the move away from the tree as quickly as possible. Let it settle and then come back and do it all again. The biggest thing to watch for is as the tree parts company with the stump, it will have a tendency to kick, or jump in an unpredictable direction. If you can leave little bits of wood connected (the hinge), they will buffer that jump and protect you from injury. If this is not clear, by all means ask for clarification before you cut. We would hate to see a notice about you being run through with a tree trunk or squashed like a bug.

Bill

[Stefan Antwarg]

I am not following Pauls binding method. I cannot picture how it would help. I should just wrap a chain or tie down around the diameter of the tree above the cut? I thought the primary concern was the trunk coming back and hitting me. How will the strap prevent this?

Stefan

[Paul Downes]

I also would like to mention that some species of trees are more succeptible to 'barber chairing' Ash is one such tree. Many of the pro's I know will never fell an ash except with a strap type cut as I mentioned in the previous post. They always cut an open notch (greater than 45 degrees) about 1/4 to 1/3 of the diameter and then plunge the back cut leaving the strap until the final cut. The plunge cut should be level with or no more than 1" above the center of the vee of the notch. NEVER below the vee of the notch. Either cut to establish the vee should not bypass each other, they need to meet at the apex of the notch. If the butt log has high value I almost always side cut on the same plane as the plunge and back cut. This can reduce tearout in the butt.

Keep in mind that tree rot and Storm damaged trees can do things you usually won't like very much.

I usually don't try to steer a leaner with hinge manipulation. I let them fall where they want.

If things start to go awry, forget the saw and run

The tree that 'barber chaired' and killed a neighbor of mine was a soft maple about 10-12" in diameter. This guy was in his mid 70's and had worked in the woods most of his life. He had no egress route, his notch was too shallow and his back cut was below the center of the notch vee. Though it wasn't a leaner it was quite windy that day. The tree split straight up the center and hinged about 6' up. It broke nearly every bone on one side of his body.

BE careful!

[Paul Downes]

The strap or chain is used to contain any section of the trunk from springing back at you IF IT SPLITS UP THE TRUNK. Think of where the tension is in the trunk from the weight distribution. With the tree leaning that bad, the back, or top side of the trunk is in tremendous tension. The side facing the ground is in considerable compression. Once you begin to release this tension with your back cut some trees are verey suceptible to fracturing or splitting in their longitudinal axis. With all that tension the tree splits with an almost explosive force. Faster than you can move anyway. Take a green branch about 1" in diameter. Cut it half way through in the middle and then bend it until it snaps. Usually it will split down the middle some.

[Rob Russell]

I am not following Pauls binding method. I cannot picture how it would help. I should just wrap a chain or tie down around the diameter of the tree above the cut? I thought the primary concern was the trunk coming back and hitting me. How will the strap prevent this?

Stefan

The point of the wrap is to contain the 2 halves of the tree from spring apart. I guess an analogy might help.

Imagine a pair of scissors standing straight up. Your saw cut is at the tip of the scissors. When you open the blades of the scissors to cut - think of the tree splitting in half like that - except very quickly and with great force. Now imagine wrapping a rope around the tip of the scissors (just above the cut)and trying to open them again. The rope/chain/strap keeps the scissors from opening, or in the case of the tree trunk, keeps the trunk from springing violently open and whacking you.

[Stefan Antwarg]

So which part of the tree is going to split? If I tie above the cut, I guess I am protecting the cutoff from splitting. But there is mention of the trunk splitting. Nobody has suggested tying below the cut - in order to prevent the trunk from splitting.

Stefan

[Kevin Gerstenecker]

Stefan, another option would be to just leave the tree as it is. This would probably be a more viable option if you hadn't already started to cut the tree. In this case, I would bind the trunk as others have mentioned. Just wrap something stout, like a big, thick nylon strap or a log chain around the trunk several times just above where you plan to make the cut. This sucker could do many things when the tension is released by the saw cut. Anyone that cuts, or has cut a lot of trees will tell you that this situation is scary, even for the seasoned veteran. Whatever you do, BE CAREFUL! We are not trying to scare you Stefan, this CAN be done fairly safely, just use all the precautions you can to be safe. If you are uncomfortable doing this, there are a few options I can think of. One, use a Pole Pruner with a good, sharp blade to make the cut. That would be more work, and probably take a while, but the Pole Pruner will cut on the pull stroke, and it will keep you a decent distance from the tree. It looks like it is small enough to be doable this way. They also have a power pole pruner. They are extendable, with a power head on one end, and a chainsaw bar and chain on the other end. I have seen these with up to 10, maybe 12" bars, and that would also work, and keep you out of the danger zone for the most part. You can rent either of these for a pretty reasonable cost..................much less than a visit to the ER if something goes wrong. As said before..................JUST BE CAREFUL.............."leaners" under stress like this can bite ya HARD!

[Kevin Gerstenecker]

So which part of the tree is going to split? If I tie above the cut, I guess I am protecting the cutoff from splitting. But there is mention of the trunk splitting. Nobody has suggested tying below the cut - in order to prevent the trunk from splitting.

Stefan

Bind the tree above the intended cut line Stefan. The trunk may split some as well, but if you cut about 3' or less above the ground, the trunk can only move a short distance, and usually it is the top of the tree you are concerned about, not the trunk. You just want to make sure you are not cutting so low that you are bent over the tree with your head/upper body over the tree. Try to get a comfortable stance, clear the debris and vegetation so you have a clear, tangle free egress zone, and try to stand as upright as you can, leaning slightly away from the tree. Like Bill mentioned, cut SLOW, and listen for the telltale cracking. Follow Bills advice, listen for the crack, back away and let it settle, the cut a LITTLE more. This is a slow, controlled cut process.................NOT a just "let 'er rip, git 'er done" job. Eye protection is a must...........and forget the hearing protection for this one...........you WANT to hear what the tree is telling you. Good luck Stefan, and please........oh please.......BE SAFE!

[Stefan Antwarg]

Ok - so I am going to tie a strong strap several inches above the area where I intend to cut. I am going to cut the tree parallel to the ground on the outside of the bend about 3 inches from the ground. I am going to go slow and listen for the first sign of wood splintering. When that happens, I am going to quickly step back from the tree. After it stops splintering, I am going to continue into the same cut further until it splinters again - and then move out of the way. Then I am going to keep on doing that until the tree falls.

Is this right? Am I leaving anything out?

[Kevin Gerstenecker]

Stefan, I would cut the trunk higher than so near the ground, for several reasons. One, if you cut that low, you will be severly bent over, and will not be able to back off from the tree as quickly as you could if you cut about 2 to 3 feet up the trunk. Also, when you are bent over that far, you lose your side vision as to what the top of the tree is doing, which is important. From the pictures, it appears that the trunk is fairly upright about 3 to 4 feet off the ground. You don't want to be bent over and not be able to escape quickly if this tree gets nasty on ya. I think you will be just fine with it, just wrap the trunk to contain the splitting, and take it slow. One thing in your favor is that this tree is fairly small.........but don't let that give you a false sense of security..........the little ones can hurt just as bad as the big ones. It may be a good idea to have a spotter along with you, in case you run into problems. You can do this safely..............just go slow and think it through. I look forward to seeing this tree on the ground once and for all...........and you standing by it safe and sound, with a big smile on your face for a job done well...............and SAFELY!

[Paul Downes]

"When that happens, I am going to quickly step back from the tree"

No Stefan, step back is not sufficient. Run away is more accurate.

I would cut that tree like this; First I would fasten a nylon tow strap or some strap similar, or a chain around the trunk of the tree about 16" or so above the place where you are going to cut with the chainsaw. Wrap the strap or chain 2-3 times around the trunk and secure it. A good ratcheting nylon tye-down would be great.

I would cut at a comfortable height, maybe knee highor even higher in this case. Position your body to the side of the tree and cut straight into the outside of the bend. You can cut at a downward angle, but if the trunk splits the split part may spring back and pinch the bar so I would cut it straight. As you cut you will be releasing a lot of tension wood so it will start to split, but the strap will keep the split from traveling OUTWARD. It might travel up the trunk of the tree but it can't spring out at you because of the strap or chain holds the split together. When the tree starts to fall or if you hear splitting sounds, get away quick and see if the tree will drop far enough to get some branches on the ground. Once it settles down continue the cut untill it is all the way down.

Another good habit to get into when felling is to immediatly lock the chain brake as soon as you pull the saw out of the felling cut. I simply rotate my hand on the top handle of the saw so that the chain brake locks. Don't take your hand off the handle. I always do this as I turn to run away from the tree as it starts to fall. Never run directly away from the direction the tree is falling. Run away at about a 135 degree angle to the direction the tree is falling. Jogging away is probably more accurate, Always walk your egress route first and clear any tripping hazards.

Run at least twice as far as you think the tree might spring back if it came loose from the stump. I once had a aspen tree come back about 15 yrds. Of course I had cut nearly all the hinge away in order to attempt to knock a previously cut leaner down. This is not considered safe logging practice but you sometimes make do for the sake of expedeiancy. I had run about 25yrds. but was sure supprised when that tree launched backwards after hitting the hung up tree.

Always keep a firm grip with your fingers and thumb wrapped around the top handle of the saw. Some guys get lazy and will push with their palms with thier fingers loose. If you have a kickback you run a very serious risk of cutting the heck out of your hand. I've seen this before, Major gross-out!!! Always keep them fingers wrapped.

[JOHN HANCOCK]

I am certainly no chainsaw expert but the tree doesn't look too thick. What do the more experience cutters think about renting a motorized pole saw and working back from the top of the tree until it is reasonable to cut and fall it.

[Pete Lamberty]

Stefan, I would be in the same boat as you are. I wouldn't really know how to do this. It sounds pretty dangerous from what everyone is saying. Even in my ignorance I might have the best way to do it. Call a professional service and have them cut it down any way they want and then once it is laying on the ground you can cut it up anyway you want. I am assuming that there is no danger in cutting it up once it is no longer attached to the ground. Good luck and think safe.