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Thread: Scraper Plane Preferences

  1. #1
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    Scraper Plane Preferences

    I've got a large project coming up, and was thinking of getting a scraper plane. LV and LN seem to have different approaches. LV uses a thinner blade that can be cambered, while LN uses the thicker blade that can still be burnished to create a burr if desired. I need to take varnish and stain off and get to fresh wood. I know the LV has an optional thick blade, but it's A2, so it seems it would be difficult to burnish.

    I'd really like to hear from anyone that has used both planes, but would also like to hear some preferences on blades, angles, burr or no burr, and the reasons. Any suggestions?

    Thanks,

    Greg

  2. #2
    If you are scraping varnish I wouldn't turn a burr. It won't last more than a stroke or two.
    Use a thick, hard blade and file a bevel (~45 deg works about right) on the end and call it good. Dress with the file frequently.

    Once the varnish and most stain are gone switch to a burred blade for a finer finish.
    You can burr one end and bevel the other if you don't want to invest in a new blade.

  3. #3
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    Scraper is a scraper. LV or LN, they have the same approach. It's not up to them to decide if you need burr or not, it's you. Some people prefer burr, some don't. I don't put burr on LV scraper, because I never felt the need for it. I've tried, but nah. I guess the advantage is that you can 'revive' burr a few times to keep going. And you can take more aggressive cut, but if you don't need to take aggressive cut (you shouldn't be making thick cut with a scraper anyway) and don't mind touch up honing, I don't think burr is necessary. It'll do just fine.

    If you decide to put burr on A2 blade, it's not any more difficult than any other blade. Just because it's A2 doesn't make it any more difficult. The part you deal is is very thin edge anyway, you don't need any more pressure than on a card scraper.

    Functionality wise, the only thing different between LV and LN is the camber knob on LV scraper.

    To turn burr, you can do standard 90 degree burr, but it doesn't have to be dead precise there. You'll be adjusting frog anyway to get desired cut, it's not a problem. One thing I can tell you is that there is no definitive angle on burr or setup. You just have to find it by adjusting.

    P.S. Don't try to scrape when burr is dead or blade is dull. It'll dig in big time and leave gigantic mark.

  4. #4
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    I think LV offers a thicker blade if that matters to you.
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  5. #5
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    Indeed LV offer a thick blane and a toothed as well!! I guess it depend what you are using it for!

  6. #6
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    I suggest you get on ebay, buy yourself a vintage #80 Stanley cabinet scraper for around $20, like I did. It's a great tool. If you find it does not meet your needs, then spend the big bucks.
    "Non illegitimis corborundum"

  7. #7
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    Stanley #80 is a scraper, not scraper plane. #112 is a scraper plane and vintage one seem to go just as much or tiny bit less than LV one anyway.
    Last edited by Sam Takeuchi; 11-14-2009 at 8:59 PM.

  8. #8
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    Thanks for all the input. Bob verified what I had found in the past about varnish wearing out a burr quickly, and Sam gave me good insight as to whether or not to use a burr. I've also found that a scraper that is sharpened but without a burr gives a smoother surface when leveling a finish.

    As for the options available, I've looked pretty hard at both, and know about the extra blades available. I've also used scrapers, and like them for some applications. For larger work, I'd just like to be able to use it more like a plane so it's less tiring.

    I haven't heard anything about the cambering of the Veritas blade being a benefit, and a thick blade can be ground with a slight camber, so that doesn't seem to factor in. I was hoping to get input from someone that had used both the Veritas and the LN. I'll see if I can find reviews from Derek Cohen.

    Thanks Again,

    Greg

  9. #9
    I would take a simpler approach and use a well sharpened, but ordinary paint scraper, to remove the varnish then move to a Stanley no. 80 to finish the job.

    I have no experience with a scraper plane.
    Mike Null

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  10. #10
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    Camber knob gives ability to really fine tune your cut, a lot more than just adding camber at sharpening stage. It is quite useful if you want to change cutting action according to the degree of shaving you want to produce. Just cambering the blade doesn't really work that way. Even though I don't use it, it is useful for many occasions.

    I don't think you can really go wrong with either one. I mean aside from that knob, everything else is pretty much the same. How it feels in hand is purely subjective manner, what others find may not suits you due to the shape of handle and knob, but I don't think neither of them will be uncomfortable, just subtle difference which you might simply prefer over others.

    But for scraping paint, I don't know if high quality scraper plane is really needed. Scraper works very slowly, and it'll dull blade too often to make it useful for large working surface.

  11. #11
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    Greg,
    I sent you a PM.
    fmr

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