Bow Saws: Turnbuckles vs cord, and other things to look for

[John Coloccia]

I'm wanting to pick up a couple of bow saws and thought I'd ask what to look for and advantages/disadvantages of various systems (threaded rod vs. cord tensioning).

And yes, I do realize that I can make my own bow saw, and I'm sure many have made their own bow saw. I'm interested only in buying a bowsaw as I don't think making one is a particularly interesting project or a good use of my precious shop time. Even Tage Frid recommends just buying the stupid thing.

[jerry nazard]

John,

I have built three of the Gramercy bow saws and am well pleased:

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/M...t/merchant.mvc

[Robert Rozaieski]

What do you want it for? If it's for ripping and crosscutting you'll want a different saw than if it is for turning/scoll work. Traditional Woodworker (as well as several other suppliers) sells two different price point models with interchangable blades.

The less expensive ECE saw has 4 blades and tightens with a wing nut. I question the usefulness of the wing nut as it seems kind of small to me to get a decent grip on for tensioning the blade.

The slightly pricier Classic Style saw has 3 blades and tightens with a cord and toggle. I use a 12" version of this kind of saw for turning and prefer the cord and toggle mechanism so this one would be my choice. There is also a shorter 15" model that would be a good size for scroll work.

The Grammercy Turning Saw sold by Tools for Working Wood is top quality as well and is a 12" model. This one is not a general purpose crosscutting and ripping saw though. It's for scroll work only.

[John Coloccia]

What do you want it for? If it's for ripping and crosscutting you'll want a different saw than if it is for turning/scoll work. Traditional Woodworker (as well as several other suppliers) sells two different price point models with interchangable blades.

Good point. I'm mostly looking for ripping and crosscutting...maybe some resawing. I do scroll work on the bandsaw mostly. I just hate having to setup the bandsaw or table saw for when I'm making just a handful of cuts. I could just do it by hand and be done by the time I'm ready to start cutting on a machine. At some point I may try one for scroll work as well.

What do you use for blades? Are they commonly available or do I have to worry if a saw manufacturer goes out of business?

[Robert Rozaieski]

The two saws above have replacement blades available if you need them, however, they are resharpenable just like a common Disston so you should likely not need to replace them for a real long time. If you do and all of the bowsaw makers go out of business (which is highly unlikely), you can make them yourself from old worn out handsaws. Some recommend bandsaw blade stock but I don't advise it. Bandsaw blade teeth are shaped all wrong for hand sawing. You could use the bandsaw blade stock, file off all the bandsaw teeth and file in properly shaped teeth but I really doubt you'll need more than one replacement blade in your lifetime so the blades that come with the saw will likely be enough. Just get a couple of tapered saw files to resharpen the blades when they need it.

[Graham Hughes (CA)]

I have two of the Highland frame saws and the Gramercy. I really dislike the wingnut tensioning and converted all mine to use a toggle instead. Re: the Highland ones, they work okay although changing blades is a collosal pain. The blades as shipped from the factory have a really mediocre sharpening job done but when competently sharpened they work out pretty well. The Japanese blade has some minor issues but does actually come sharp. They work pretty well for general work although the high center of gravity can be a pain in the wrist after a while. Do not be fooled; the handles are not where your hand goes for harder work. Everything I've seen from good bowsaw users involves grabbing the near vertical member for one handed work, and only using the handle for two handed stuff.

The Gramercy bowsaw, by contrast, I am entirely happy with. Wish the others were built to that level of care.

[John Coloccia]

Well, I scored an old bow saw here in Finland today (I'm out here on vacation). My wife's uncle, the slightly well known glass designer Jorma Vennola, happened to have one lying around from his childhood. He had no use for it so he gave it to me. So not only did I get an authentic, well made, antique bow saw from Europe, but I got one that was owned by someone who has actual talent. I took it for a test drive and it cuts VERY nicely, even with the old rusty blade in it.

I believe this counts as a gloat. LOL.

I'm checking out the "classic" ones from toolsforwoodworking.com. It feels to me like a threaded rod will make it much heavier, and a turnbuckle will make it heavier still.