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Thread: Spalted Sycamore

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    Columbus, OH
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    Spalted Sycamore

    I'm working on a breadbox made from maple with a spalted sycamore front door. No stain or dye, but I'm wondering if I should follow any special procedure with the sycamore to stabilize the coloring and wood before finishing.

    I'm planning on a couple coats of wipe on poly, but any suggestions would be welcome and probably heeded.


    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tomball, TX (30 miles NNW Houston)
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    Well you asked...

    Poly is for floors, period. Not the best for furniture etc.

    Spalted lumber tends to be very absorbant. I would finish inside and out with a couple coats of de-waxed super blonde shellac, if you want no color; or an amber or garnet shellac if you want a bit of color.

    Once sealed with the shellac I would use a quality alkyd resin soya oil varnish like Cabot's 8000 series or Pratt & Lambert #38 (my favotrite alkyd/soya) varnish.

    Sherwin Willaims also makes a quality alkyd resin soya oil varnish that they sell at the SW paint stores. SW Claissic Oil Varnish (burgandy can) gloss or satin.
    Last edited by Scott Holmes; 11-28-2009 at 12:22 AM.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Ivy, VA
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    Just my experience with the very little spalted sycamore I've worked with (only bowl turning, no furniture work yet, but I have a stash); its very prone to moving with moisture changes. It moves a LOT. I had some problems with turning & sanding the insides of bowls, then reversing & finishing the bottoms; by the time I was done with one side, the other was out of true! This happened several times; no problems with other woods exc. apple. Just my $0.02. Edit: the dewaxed shellac is the ticket to the finish; I used sealcoat on every bowl after the first; I used a few ounces of varnish, literally, on a 10" bowl before the shellac.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
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    722
    I have had my hands on quite a bit of spalted sycamore in the last few years. I think an oil based finish is very unflattering on it. Yellows it and muddles the beauty, IMHO.
    I would opt for a clear shellac (like sealcoat) or lacquer. Both will look nice on it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Waterford, MI
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    The timing on this is good. I'm about a week away from putting some finish on a small spalted sycamore end table. I was already planning on using 2-3 coats of SealCoat but since I wont be able to count on the owner not putting drinks on it without a coaster I was thinking of a couple oats of WB poly over the shellac. Any thoughts? Or brand recommendations?
    Use the fence Luke

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Ditto to what Nathan mentioned...if it's plain/flat sawn sycamore, be sure that you built your project with movement in mind. Quarter sawn is a lot more stable and spalted QS looks outstanding. (I have that bookmatched on a small bookcase top in our master bath toilet room and it's incredible) As to finishing it, I didn't stray from the treatment I was giving to the cherry that made up the rest of the project....BLO, de-waxed shellac and then sprayed water borne. (Target Coatings USL, now EM6000)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    ...(Target Coatings USL, now EM6000)
    Can that be brushed?
    Use the fence Luke

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Doug, yes it can. Jeff Jewitt, I believe, has published some comments about that. It's primarily designed for spraying, but like Minwax Polycrylic, it will go on with a brush ok with good technique. Similar to shellac, you can't take eons to brush it out, however, like you can with an oil based varnish.

    I nearly opted for brushing it tonight, as a matter of fact, on a small horse stall plaque, but in the end, just decided to put it in my HVLP gun and spray since cleanup is so easy.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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