Help from the experts: European Oak table top protection

[ron bermudez]

I'd like to preface this with "I'm not a woodworker" Though, I do appreciate the look of wood. I just need some expert advice from the more knowledgeable here at Sawmill creek.

We just bought this table used on Craigslist: http://www.crateandbarrel.com/Family.aspx?c=883&f=14071

The crate and barrel folk recommend liberon's beeswax with turpentine. The previous owners have applied the liberon's beeswax a few times since they bought the table 18 months ago. The table still looks new to me. Is Liberon's a good pastewax to continue using? We prefer the naturally finished look (non-plastic non-shiny look) but would like to add a bit more protection without changing the look. The table will get a quite a bit of daily use. Any suggestions? We ordered the Liberon's Beeswax with turpentine, but after reading through some of the threads in this forum, we are not sure anymore. We will be heeding the advice of crate and barrel and use coasters, place mats, etc. Any additional protection advice will be helpful. Thank you.

[Scott Holmes]

Wax makes water bead up. It does NOT protect the wood from water penetration.

White oak is very durable when used around water. Red oad is not. European oak is not a wood I know enough about to comment.

To provide protection from daily use, the wax & turp. would need to be redone not less than weekly. thats way too much work in my book.

A better solution would be an oil/varnish blend a.k.a. Danish oil. Make your own by mixing equal parts boiled linseed oil (BLO), mineral spirits (MS) (or turp. very stong smell) and a quality NON poly varnish.

Looking at the table I would guess 8 oz of each would make enough to finish that table and have a bit lefft for touch=up down the road. Wipe it on let it soak in for 20 minutes or so then buff it dry. Repeat once or twice. Give it a week and then wax it with beeswax only, no turp. if you insist, it's not needed. You're good to go for years to come.

[ron bermudez]

Wax makes water bead up. It does NOT protect the wood from water penetration.

White oak is very durable when used aroung water. Red oad is not. European oak is not a wood I know enough about to comment.

To provide protection from daily use, the wax & turp. would need to be redone not less than weekly. thats way too much work in my book.

A better solito would be an oil/varnish blend a.k.a. Danish oil. Make your own by mixing equal parts boiled linseed oil (BLO), mineral spirits (MS) (or turp. very stong smell) and a quality NON poly varnish.

Looking at the table I would guess 8 oz of each would make enough to finish that table and have a bit lefft for touch=up down the road. Wipe it on let it soak in for 20 minutes or so then buff it dry. Repeat once or twice. Give it a week and then wax it with beeswax only, no turp. if you insist, it's not needed. You're good to go for years to come.

Can you recommend a premixed Danish oil brand? Is Briwax Danish Oil a quality Danish oil?

If I were to go and mix my own, what is a quality mineral spirit and NON poly varnish brand?

Since the table had been treated with Liberon's Beeswax w/ Turpentine already, does the table require any cleaning or prep of any kind before I treat it with the Danish oil? OR can I have at it and apply the Danish oil?

[Scott Holmes]

Watco makes good danish oils. A quality varnish would be Pratt & Lambert #38 (sometime difficult to find) Cabot #8000 series (not usually available at the big box stores) Waterlox Original is excellent varnish as is Behlen's Rock hard Table Top varnish; both are available at the nearest Woodcraft store or by ordering on-line.

As for prep work it's not something I can see or feel so I can only guess.

As a general rule of thumb I would virgoriusly clean it with mineral spirits to get as must wax off as possible.

[ron bermudez]

Well, I plan to treat with a danish oil. As well as protection, I like the natural sheen of Danish oil, and don't want to hide the feel of the wood.

I'm not sure mineral spirits will clean off all the previous wax protection. So, I'll do a light sanding followed by some type of Tried and True finish. T and T Danish oil or Original Wood Finish.

I don't want to use Watco Danish oil as it come tinted. Even Watco Danish Oil "Natural" is tinted. According to the Crate and Barrel folk, the table top is natural and unfinished. No stain... no protection on table top. Legs, sides and benches are all finished.


FYI: It's made of European Oak from Poland. The table top is natural and unfinished. Crate and Barrel recommends Liberon's Beeswax with Turpentine (Clear).

I want protection that's a little more robust than just beeswax, but want to maintain the natural look of the wood. I don't want to add any shine at all. Just keep it as natural looking as possible.

We plan to get daily use out of this table, so protection while maintaining the natural beauty is a must. Initial thoughts are Tried and True Danish oil... maybe Tried and True Natural Wood Finish.

Thanks everyone...