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Thread: What's a good mid-price level?

  1. #1
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    What's a good mid-price level?

    I'm thinking of picking up a new 4' level to use for both its intended purpose and as a straightedege for machine setup. The one I have is a really cheap one that I doubt is very trustworthy. Amazon has Stabila for about $90. I noticed that Menards has their Masterforce brand levels which Net Legend has are made by Stabila. Still kind of expensive at around $70 for as much as I think I'd use it for either use. Looks like the Orange BORG has some by Johnson in the $40 range that are supposedly accurate to 0.000-something-5 in/in and have a milled edge which I suppose makes them straight. What's good?

    Local hardware store has an 8' Stabila they special ordered long ago that never got picked up that they'd sell for $50 but that's too long for me. He said he'd cut it in half for me.
    Last edited by Matt Meiser; 12-09-2009 at 7:45 PM.


  2. #2
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    I have a Stanley Fat Max extreme 24" magnetic that is real nice. They also make a 4" non magnetic.
    http://www.stanleytools.com/default....Box+Beam+Level
    I got my 24" at ACE hardware for $46.
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  3. #3
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    Mar 2009
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    I'm a big fan of the Empire line of tools. All of the levels that I have are Empire along with combination squares. They have three lines, like good, better, best. They aren't called that but that is essentially what it is. I go right in the middle of the road and have been very satisfied so far.

    Chuck

  4. #4
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    + 1 for Empire

    I use the "true blue" line from empire, accurate enough to launch a space shuttle with, and comes with warranty. Not to pricey for a 4 ft either. I've got their 4', 2', and torpedo. I've been superbly happy with all 3


    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Isaacson View Post
    I'm a big fan of the Empire line of tools. All of the levels that I have are Empire along with combination squares. They have three lines, like good, better, best. They aren't called that but that is essentially what it is. I go right in the middle of the road and have been very satisfied so far.

    Chuck

  5. #5
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    I picked up a 4 foot and 2 foot Starrett laminated hardwood levels from e-bay for 40 bucks IIRC. Was not expensive. And they LOOK really cool. Oh, the 4 foot came in a plastic case. I just did a search and only saw a 24". May not be as accurate as a Stabila, but close enough. And the laminate looks cool.

  6. #6
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    I have used Stabila's for years in my work. At first I was skeptical how long they would stay accurate, but after many years of service they are still true.

    My favorite however is still American, wood levels, made in the USA still, at least as of my last purchase, and again they give me years of good service. I like the wood levels for hortizontal work as they are much easier to hold in place because they are not so slippery, and also this time of year they are not so damn cold for outside work.

    Whatever level you buy check them in the store before you buy. It is simple really. Hold them on both a vertical and horizontal surface, see what they read, flip them around and see if they read the same. The surface does not have to be exactly plumb or level, you are just checking that they read the same. If the bubble is not in exactly the same spot both ways, try another until you find one that reads true on all bubbles.

    The Stabilla has the advantage of being able to read the horizontal bubble from the edge/top, a nice feature. I wish I was close to you, I would snatch up that 8 footer in a heartbeat. The Stabilla does however have a rounded edge that can handycap their use as a straightedge. Most levels do. Crick levels have a sharp square edge, but they are pricy, and I do not feel that they warrent the extra cost.
    Last edited by Larry Edgerton; 12-10-2009 at 5:53 AM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Isaacson View Post
    I'm a big fan of the Empire line of tools. All of the levels that I have are Empire along with combination squares. They have three lines, like good, better, best. They aren't called that but that is essentially what it is. I go right in the middle of the road and have been very satisfied so far.

    Chuck
    +1 for Empire. Made in the USA, reasonably priced, and bullet proof. What else do you need to know?
    Trees. Tools. Time.

  8. #8
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    May 2005
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    Wisconsin
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    I like Stabila ...... their Jamber set makes hanging doors a lot easier and they are rugged; one of mine survived a couple of two story falls unscathed - but they're definitely not mid priced unless you catch one on sale. Empire would be a good choice. I'd spend a little time considering various styles (I-beam, box beam, wood etc.) ............. depending on what you want to do style may be as important as brand.

  9. #9
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    I've got the 48" fat max. I haven't done any major testing, but it is working great for my uses.

    Quote Originally Posted by Myk Rian View Post
    I have a Stanley Fat Max extreme 24" magnetic that is real nice. They also make a 4" non magnetic.
    http://www.stanleytools.com/default....Box+Beam+Level
    I got my 24" at ACE hardware for $46.

  10. #10
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    Hmm... Hadn't thought of that... I was looking more at box levels because at the big box stores the better (or at least more expensive) levels are box levels. My main uses:

    1) Home maintenance tasks--thinking back to what I've done with a level the past few years, things like building a small deck, putting up shelves, replacing door or two, stuff like that. Honestly the cheap level I have is probably adequate (its actually an entry level extruded aluminum Empire.)

    2) Machine setup--using it as a straightedge for things like ensuring jointer tables are coplaner, setting infeed/outfeed tables on the planer, setting up extension tables/wings on the TS.

    Maybe I should just keep my current level and buy a straightedge, but even a good level is probably cheaper and I'm in the camp that believes you don't need a machinists-grade straightedge for WW machine setup.


  11. #11
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    Apr 2009
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    South Central Illinois
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    I have a 4' Swanson from LOWE'S that works very well. Has the magnetic feature, and is very straight! Price is around $40.
    I didn't do it.....YET!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Meiser View Post

    Maybe I should just keep my current level and buy a straightedge, but even a good level is probably cheaper and I'm in the camp that believes you don't need a machinists-grade straightedge for WW machine setup.
    I disagree Matt, if you're going to measure machine tolerances you need something with that level of accuracy.

    Sorry for the pun on level, however levels aren't straight edges.

    I don't believe you need that level of accuracy for measuring wood objects however.

    regards, Rod.

  13. #13
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    I'm not surprised that someone did Like I said--there are two camps on that particular issue. I predict another post vehemently disagreeing with your position!


  14. #14
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    I have the Lee Valley straight edge and I trust it.
    I could cry for the time I've wasted, but thats a waste of time and tears.

  15. #15
    I have the 4' pinnacle straight edge from Woodcraft, and it's fine. I also have the 2' Veritas, and it's fine too. I have a 4' Stanley Fat Max level, and I really like it for a level, but it makes a lousy straight edge as I remember it. The roughly milled face makes it difficult to scribe a straight line, and it's very hard to detect small variations from flat because the roughness confoozles everything. That's just my memory of it.

    Anyhow, if you really need a long level, I like the Fat Max. If you really need a long straight edge, I like the pinnacle. As a compromise, if you don't want to spend the $$$ for both, you can get a small, magnetic topedo level and slap it on the pinnacle straight edge if you ever need a really long level for something. Honestly, though, I find that my levels get beat up, and even if someone combined a quality straight edge with a level, I probably wouldn't buy it for the simple reason that after a few months of use, the straight edge would have enough dings in it that I wouldn't want to use it as a flat reference anymore.

    Just my opinion.

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