Adding passageway wall

[Alex Horvath]

Hi all,

Not really a workshop question but I'm adding what I believe is called a passageway wall (an interior wall with a large trimmed opening). There is an existing 2' knee wall from the original builder framed with 2x6's. I will be adding onto that to complete the passageway wall with a 1' ceiling drop (ceilings are 9') and an 8" or so second knee wall (just enough for jamb and casing).

I have a book with lots of detail on how to add interior walls so I think I have that covered. I have lots of experience with finish carpentry and general tool use but I have never done framing.

I may want to add a 8'Hx4'W sidelight and a pair of 3'W french doors to finish out this passageway so I need to take more care than your typical framer to get everything plumb, level and square. The more projects I work on the more I realize this is one of main keys to get things to go smoothly.

So if I make this on the floor first and install as 2 units, I'll have a 10'Wx1'H unit and a 9'Hx8"W unit. I figure I'll use my miter station with stops to get the lengths perfect then check for square. I plan on using screws because I don't have a framing nail gun and this is not structural.

Both of these will be installed by securing them to blocking(which I will have to add) between joists.

So I have a few general questions -

Should I install the blocking using a gauge to get a consistent distance from the edge of the joist for the ceiling unit? The wall unit will be flush with existing common studs (if they are plumb).

I had a framing guy tell me that the ceiling blocking should be resting on a 2x4 sistered to the existing ceiling joists since it's a "hanging" weight but I'm not sure he really understood what I'm doing. I'm all for overdesign but is this necessary? I would think the knee wall attachments would be plenty of support. I think lateral strength (to resist door closing forces) is more important.

What lumber should I use? I once installed stair stringers and I had to order dry lumber. I don't think the home centers have dry 2x6's if it's necessary.

Thanks for any tips. I don't think this is difficult but I usually do something dumb my first time.

I'm attaching a simple drawing in case this is not clear. Orange parts are the ones I will add.

Thanks

[Chris True]

Guess I don't understand your question. Blocking should be flush with the bottom of the joists, it goes between the joists @ 90 degrees. Your header should rest on a jack stud on each side, there should be no "hanging weight".

[phil harold]

steel studs, and track would make simple, straight, and light framing

you could also use 1x and 1/4" plywood to frame with

with either of these framimg methods they can be self suporting , strong, and straight

[Alex Horvath]

Chris,

You are right except perhaps that a nailer is required for drywall?

I'm assuming I have to remove drywall in 1 joist bay.

I don't see a hanging weght issue either - I don't think the guy understood me.

[Chris True]

Chris,

You are right except perhaps that a nailer is required for drywall?

I'm assuming I have to remove drywall in 1 joist bay.

I don't see a hanging weght issue either - I don't think the guy understood me.

If you sheetrock the ceiling first then the wall so the wall rock butts up against and supports the ceiling then no additional nailer between the blocking is needed in the corners. In the field it isn't needed either with a joist to screw to every 16" on center. OTOH if it makes you feel better it doesn't hurt .

[Alex Horvath]

If you sheetrock the ceiling first then the wall so the wall rock butts up against and supports the ceiling then no additional nailer between the blocking is needed in the corners. In the field it isn't needed either with a joist to screw to every 16" on center. OTOH if it makes you feel better it doesn't hurt .

Ahhh. Chris, you are a master.

[Alex Horvath]

Chris or others,

One other question - just curious.

In my house I see hundreds of truss plates. They seem to be used wherever you have a T junction. I can't tell by looking at them how they attach these. I see no nails although I think they have a staple.

Is there a special tool to apply these? I assume they have teeth which are driven into the wood. I'm guessing these are far superior to a toenail which is why they are used.

Thanks

[phil harold]

Chris,

You are right except perhaps that a nailer is required for drywall?

I'm assuming I have to remove drywall in 1 joist bay.

I don't see a hanging weght issue either - I don't think the guy understood me.

with my method ther would be no need to remove sheetrock
just glue and screw (or cross nail) into sheet rock

One other question - just curious.

In my house I see hundreds of truss plates. They seem to be used wherever you have a T junction. I can't tell by looking at them how they attach these. I see no nails although I think they have a staple.

Is there a special tool to apply these? I assume they have teeth which are driven into the wood. I'm guessing these are far superior to a toenail which is why they are used.

they could have been manufactured at another location and pressed on or rolled on depending on the system


ps a knee wall would only be knee high...