Modify blade guard to accept DC fitting?

[Dave Schreib]

I have been looking at a vareity of overhead blade guards - primarily because I wanted to make use of the DC fitting that they have built in.

I was considering cutting into my Ridgid 3650 blade guard and adding a 2" PVC port that would then connect to my shop vac. Not an ideal solution. But I was thinking it would hold me until the budget allows for a more elegant solution.

What do folks think?

[glenn bradley]

I have seen this on forums and in WWing magazines. I would say it is a valid idea if done so that the hose is secured so as not to accidentally pull the guard into an unsafe position or impede its travel. Here's a pic from Wood mags online site:

[John Coloccia]

Buy a shark guard. Mine just came in. It's VERY well made, and I'm very happy with it. I got the one with the 4" port, but there are many different options.

http://www.leestyron.com/default.php

And they're under $150, plus Lee is a nice guy to work with.

[John Keeton]

Or, this one is for sale in the classifieds - no affiliation, just saw it.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=126362

[Bob Borzelleri]

I'm into version two of such a setup. I have a Uniguard "overarm" guard that has a two piece clear guard setup. I bought a couple of replacement guard parts that include the center horizontal piece.

First attempt included cutting a 2.5 or so inch hole and CAing a modified 2.5" port to it. That lasted about 2 hours before the glue joint gave way.

My next magical act will include model car glue; the kind you need to bring your mother along to purchase for you.

[Prashun Patel]

I too am a sharkguard fan. After trying what you want to do a few times, I decided the $150 was worth it.

The nice thing about the SG is that it's easily detachable, and the splitter stays in tact, so you can use it for nonthru cuts.

If you still want a diy soln, I humbly suggest you build a fence-mounted or table mounted jig to hold the shop vac hose just in front of the guard. That'll prevent you having to monkey with the guard.

[Rod Sheridan]

I too am a sharkguard fan. After trying what you want to do a few times, I decided the $150 was worth it.

The nice thing about the SG is that it's easily detachable, and the splitter stays in tact, so you can use it for nonthru cuts.

If you still want a diy soln, I humbly suggest you build a fence-mounted or table mounted jig to hold the shop vac hose just in front of the guard. That'll prevent you having to monkey with the guard.

Hi Shawn, how do you use the Shark guard for non through cuts?

Regards, Rod.

[John Coloccia]

The guard (including the mount) comes off in about 10 seconds, leaving just the riving knife behind. On splitter type arrangements, you're still out of luck.

On my saw stop, it takes the same amount of time to remove Lee's guard as it does to remove the throat plate and replace the guard with a dedicated splitter. It's quicker, in fact. On the cabinet version of the SS, it'd probably be a tie as they have a quick remove throat plate.

[Paul Ryan]

I am currently working on a review between the shark guard and the sawstop PCS guard. I should be done in a few more days. The shark guard is very impressive, and Lee is a heck of a guy.

[Prashun Patel]

I remove the GUARD from the splitter. It's not a 'snap', but quick enough.

Plus, it comes with three splitters. If you pop out the middle splitter, you can put in the 'shorty' that can be used for longer non-thru cuts.

Lee IS a heck of a guy. He was really nice to me on a customer service issue.

[Dave Schreib]

Thanks for all the advive. I would love one of the commercial solutions but right now my newborn shop has so many needs that I am trying to make due where I can so that I can spend a little money on the solutions that cant be made with duct tape and glue. Like a real dust collector for example.

I thinking that I will give my diy solution a try and if it doesnt work then I guess a comercial solution will have to move up the list of priorities. Especially since I will have just mangled my stock guard.

Given Bob's experience with the glue failing, I think I will try to fit two pieces of pvc together. Have one with a flange come up from inside the guard and have another with a flange come down from above. Then use PVC glue to sort of trap the guard between the two pieces of pvc.

I'll report back on whether it works or not.

[Mike Gager]

for the ridgid saw the shark guard doesnt look much different then the factory arrangement. in fact it appears to be the exact same thing

[John Coloccia]

You can get the Shark Guard with up to a 4" dust port. Does the ridgid have a port? The whole point of the guard is to add dust collection. On the SawStop, Lee's guard is a definite upgrade (I love everything about the SS except their blade guard....it's...well...it's just not that great). I'd guess it's an upgrade for for most saws, and adds dust collection to all saws.

[David Hostetler]

I've got the Shark Guard and LOVE the thing. Lee did some top flight design work on this thing!

[Dave Schreib]

John - the Ridgid doesnt have a port. I plan to take my stock guard and splice a port into it.