Table saw set-up alignment tool

[Richard Andersen]

Looking for advise on the best alignment tool for setting up my PM 2000 table saw and future shop equipment. I've looked at the A-Line-It system, the Rockler alignment tool/plate system, Hartville tool X-Point set-up gauge, the Woodpecker tool and some others. Not sure which one is the best, seems the main differences is how the tool fits and rides in the miter slot. I can't remember but think some only check parallel alignment while others are versatile and can check arbor run and spindle run-out. It seems the more looking and comparing I do the more I get.

[Howard Acheson]

Here is the low tech, low cost way to align a tablesaw that I learned maybe forty years ago and used to teach to my students.

Make 3/4 x 3/4 x 12" hardwood stick. Drill a hole somewhat centered in one end and insert a brass #8 x 1" round head fine thread machine screw about half way. UNPLUG THE SAW. Raise the blade completely up. Clamp this board in your miter gauge (if you determine that there is some slop in your slot to miter gauge, use a playing card to take up the slop) so the screw head just about touches the blade at the front. Now rotate the blade by hand and determine which tooth is the closest. Adjust the screw in or out until it just touches this tooth. Mark this tooth. Rotate the blade so the tooth is now at the back of the table and move the miter gauge/stick assembly to the back and see if it touches the marked tooth to the same extent. If it doesn't, adjust the trunnion (if a contractor saw) or the tabletop (if a cabinet saw) until it does.

For a contractor saw, first use a small c-clamp on the rear trunnion and cradle to keep the assembly from moving. Then loosen the two rear trunnion bolts and one front trunnion bolt. Slightly loosen the other front trunnion bolt and use a stick to tap the trunnion until the blade and screw lightly touch. The blade does not move directly around the center so you will need to repeatedly go back to the front of the blade, readjust the screw, and then again measure the back. Be sure to check after tightening the trunnion as the trunnion frequently moves when being tightened.

For cabinet saws, loosen the bolts that hold the tabletop and tap one corner until things come into alignment.

The same adjustment gauge can be used to set the fence parallel to the miter slot. Slide the miter gauge to the front of the table and move the fence over to the screw head and insert a playing card between the screw head and the fence just so you can move the card as it touches both the fence and the screw head. Now move the miter gauge to the back of the table and see if you have the same feel when you insert the card. I like my fence absolutely parallel--if you want to have a slight opening to the fence, you can easily estimate the opening by adding a thickness of paper to the card.

I always show my students with a dial gauge that their adjustments are within .001 - .002.

You can also use the same gauge to measure blade runout by using a $5.00 feeler gauge.

Finally, after you are satisfied with the above adjustments, check the position of the splitter to make sure it is exactly in line with the blade.

Bottom line, there is no need to spend more than the $0.05 for the brass screw.

[glenn bradley]

You'll find many posts on this here using the search engine. Another low tech solution for tools with miter tracks: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=111878

[Tony Shea]

I have the A-line-it tool and have been completely satisfied. I really didn't want to spend any more than I had to but just thought I would like the features of this tool compared to Rockler's version that they carry. I would have made my own but didn't have my table saw setup yet as I needed this tool to get it alignned properly. Therefore couldn't make the miter strips involved in making my own. If you have some way to make your own I would highly reccomend it as IMO these guages are way over priced.

[keith jensen]

I'm new to woodworking so I use things like this to learn about tools/techniques. I made something similar to what Glenn linked to. It was just a ripped piece for a miter glued to a piece of plywood. I then used half of a hasp (the part the lock bar goes through) screwed it to the plywood and bolted the dial indicator to it. Worked like a charm and was easy.

[Myk Rian]

Mount a dial indicator to a piece of wood, and clamp that to the miter gauge.
You don't need to spend a ton of money on fancy setups.

[Joe Scharle]

I used the stick/screw and stop rod thru the miter gage for years. Couple of years ago, HF had these dials for $5.99. Use it for both blade and fence. Used it to detect a warped blade recently.

[Bruce Page]

Richard, this is what I use; http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=32315

Post #16 in the thread gives you some sources.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I have the "A-Line It" and one similar to Joe's (mine looks better, but don't tell Joe.) The "A-Line It" came with my Dubby. Both do the exact same thing. With both the "A-Line It" and Joe's, you can set fence parallel, check both arbor, and flange run out, and check for blade parallel to miter slot. Mine was based on the one in ShopNotes.

[Bill Neely]

The best alignment tool is John Whites book. Forget all the expensive gadgets.

[Jason White]

Combination square.

Jason

Looking for advise on the best alignment tool for setting up my PM 2000 table saw and future shop equipment. I've looked at the A-Line-It system, the Rockler alignment tool/plate system, Hartville tool X-Point set-up gauge, the Woodpecker tool and some others. Not sure which one is the best, seems the main differences is how the tool fits and rides in the miter slot. I can't remember but think some only check parallel alignment while others are versatile and can check arbor run and spindle run-out. It seems the more looking and comparing I do the more I get.