Where's the thread that tells how dirty black iron pipe is to work with?

[Bob Borzelleri]

The shop looks like it might qualify for FEMA funds.

It all started innocently and somewhat controlled. I wanted to quiet down the cyclone so I figured I'd build an insulated closet in the corner. While I was at it, I saw this as an opportunity to reroute the duct work into a semi permanent arrangement (current plan is to build an attached shed for the DC on the back wall and run the duct work under the raised wood floor maybe next summer, maybe not).

While lamenting the temporary loss of two 110V outlets, I came upon the bright idea to use 1/2 of one outlet for a light in the closet and, since I had the extra floor space in there, I'd put the air compressor (a small footprint Makita MC2400) in there too.

That brought up how to route the air hose. I didn't want to defeat the noise isolation by having the door ajar every time I used the compressor so I began thinking about running the hose through the closet wall. That sounded like it would look as tacky as it appeared in my head so I thought this might be a good time to consider a distributed air system.

Several searches later and having endured more discussions regarding the relative merit of various schedules, gauges and variations of copper pipe than I ever thought existed, I decided to use black iron pipe.

Now black iron pipe is relatively cheap if you have a shop that lends itself to standard lengths available in the big boxes (which I don't) so I went on down to Harbor Freight and bought my self a pipe cutter, a threader and a vice. I think I might have spent $65 for the pipe arsenal and as soon as I am done with this phase of the work in my shop, I'm going to help a buddy do air in his so the pipe tools will get another workout. After a trip to the local large plumbing store to get bulk pipe, I was about ready to go.

So today, I dived in and built a manifold in the closet and routed pipe around about 2/3s of the wall area I want to cover. I have elbows, 45 degree connectors, Tees and valves galore (including drain valves at the end of each run). The pipe tools from HF worked as well as I hoped they would.

By the time I finished for the day, I had stuff strewn all over the place and, on the back wall coming out of the semi completed DC/Compressor closet is 1/2" of pipe that looks like it was installed by someone with a perspective problem. It called for a 1" drop every 10 feet, but I figured if I did 4" over 25 feet, it would look like I had planned it rather than having simply been sloppy. More than once, I thought that having the drop and the drain valve might be overkill, but gravity can sometimes be your friend and I like the look of the valves so redundancy won out.

I also have washed my hands so many times today that I am pretty sure I have met at least two of the necessary conditions for an Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder diagnosis. This stuff is really dirty and cutting threads adds to the mess by an order of magnitude. Tomorrow it's back out and finishing off the pipes. Then I can get back to finishing off the closet and then the duct work and then maybe the hallway coat rack that has been waiting for me to complete it for 3 months.

I wonder why people don't use galvanized pipe for air? If nothing else, it isn't as dirty.

[Chuck Saunders]

I think that the galvanizing can flake off and it costs more is the main reasons given. The mess of threading awaits you either way.

[David G Baker]

If it is messy I use gloves if I don't want to get my hands dirty. Working with pipe can be a dirty job as you have found out and it can be quite labor intensive if you do your own cutting and threading. I have all of the necessary tools, most are Rigid brand so the labor is a little less and I use a lot of thread cutting oil when I cut and thread. The oil makes the job even messier.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

I wonder if the condensation normally associated with compressed air eventually causes rust inside the black pipe.
fmr

[Michael Wetzel]

http://www.idealindustries.com/prodD...ools&l1b=wipes

Pickup a tub of those at lowes/etc. I have cleaned everything off my hands from grease to the asphalt based roofing glues.

[Maury Saggus]

Black iron pipe will rust inside with compressed air. If the air is dry, it will only flash rust, but if no dryer is in the system, condensate will cause thicker flaking rust. As long as you put a filter at the end of the line, you will catch the rust particles. This is the reason galvanised is typically used. Also, the galvanised coating does not readily flake off. Properly applied, it bonds with the iron underneath.
Copper is easier to work with and does not rust in the presence of moisture.

[Bob Borzelleri]

http://www.idealindustries.com/prodD...ools&l1b=wipes

Pickup a tub of those at lowes/etc. I have cleaned everything off my hands from grease to the asphalt based roofing glues.

Thanks Michael.

The bathroom closest to the shop was originally going to be my bathroom for cleaning up after a day in the shop. As it turned out, my bathroom is now filled with fish pictures and sculptures and fancy towels and fluffy floor rugs. I don't recall putting those things in there.

The Ideal towels should make my hands presentable for when I open the door to "my" bathroom

...Bob

[Bob Borzelleri]

I wonder if the condensation normally associated with compressed air eventually causes rust inside the black pipe.
fmr

Faust...

Everybody seems to have somewhat differing opinions of whether iron pipe systems will rust. It's probably safe to say that a system that is never drained or has runs that are flat or go uphill will rust.

However, many people have installed iron pipe compressed air systems and have had them run for many years without rust problems. Those folks very likely have well designed and maintained systems.

Mine has a short condenser pipe manifold going up to the ceiling. In addition, I have a drain at the bottom of the condenser pipe and drains at each drop. The entire run is just under 65 feet and it drops 7" from beginning to end. I am waiting for filters to arrive. They will be placed at each termination point.

I drain my compressor religiously so draining the pipe system will be second nature. I'm not worried about rust.

...Bob

[Bruce Wrenn]

The only place I see BIP anymore is gas lines, and sprinkler systems. Most gas lines in residential are now flex pipe.The sprinkler systems use a gasketed coupler, rather than threads on anything bigger than 1".