New Build: Alder and Maple Tele

[Mark Crenshaw]

With the black applied and the masking removed. This finishing system uses a clear sealer as the base for opaque colors so it looks like a dry application but it isn't entended to have a sheen like nitro would at this point. This water based stuff takes some getting use to.



Here's a tight shot of the binding before easing the edge.



And, after level sanding the top and easing the edge to reveal a bit of maple on the top.



Clear coats tonight!!!!

[Mark Crenshaw]

I've had a couple of requests to explain how I ease the edges of the top and keep the reveal consistant. I'm sure others use the same method...I'm not laying claim to it, just explaining how I do it.

The edge is eased using a small rubber pad. about 1" wide by 2" long, and 220 grit. I hold the pad/sandpaper at a 35 degree angle to the top. And gently glide along the edge...keeping the length of the pad perpendicular to the edge of the body...so it's always forming a cross to the edge.

This is one of those things where you should watch more what's coming off than what you're leaving behind. As you sand, you'll see dust or powder build up between the pad and the edge of the top. Watch this and sand until you have a uniform line of powder. This allows you to keep moving without lifting the pad...which could cause inconsistant edges. After you have a completed line around the guitar, wipe it clean and check your work. If you want more of an exposure, repeat until you're happy with the reveal.

The key is to take your time and use minimal pressure until you see the results...which could vary from guitar to guitar depending on how the finish was built up. I highly recommend a little practice on scrap before attempting this on a nearly finished body.

A quick mockup...



Peace,
Mark

[Tim Mahoney]

Another good book is Build your own Electric Guitar by Marvin Oakham. It even has a full size plan of a strat type. I also bought a tele template from Ron Kirn. Very precise.

[Mark Crenshaw]

Well, Ive brought this build out of the dust and I'm ready for final clear coats. I did a quick level sanding to the first round of clear coats this morning. I'll be spraying fnal clear tomorrow with several other builds.





I splashed a bit of water on the surface to see how it lays down. I've found this a quick way to look at color and texture before applying clear coats. A smooth surface is going to let the water flow out. A rough surface will make it pit and stay put...because of surface tension, I guess. This one's looking pretty good.



Peace,
Mark

[Mark Crenshaw]

Final clear coats on...I love how smoothly this water based lacquer lays down...









Peace,
Mark

[Jamie Cowan]

Your build threads are always a great read, but this one is exceptional. You should write your own book. I have both books you mentioned, and they are really good, but I honestly think you could do a unique book that readers might recommend to others, just as you've done. Or maybe a DVD series. I don't know where you'd find the time, but if you wrote a book about guitars, I'd read it. Heck, I'd even buy the hardcover.

[Mark Crenshaw]

The neck for this one came out pretty nice. This is natural...only clear applied. I wish I had done more with the heel on this one, though with that figure, I doubt anyone would notice.



Peace,
Mark

[Mark Crenshaw]

Just a quick update. I have all the clear coats sprayed. I've been very happy with the way the EmTech water based lavquer lays down...just beautifil. It sprays like nitro, flows out smoothly, and cures very quickly. Of course, I've added a bit of help in the curing dept.

I hang the guitars in my studio closet and I've placed a small space heater ( no extention cords involved...keeping it safe) in there with them...it keeps the room at about 100 degrees F. That coupled with the dry air indoors from the A/C really help the spraying schedule.

I spray 2 double coats, place them in the hot room for an hour, spray 2 more and so on. It's been great. And when they come out of the room for another few coats, they're quite warm and the coats flash very quickly...allowing the double coat process to go very quick without fear of sags or runs.

This will also allow me to speed up the cure time...normally fully cured in 100 hours. I used this hot room on my $210 Challenge entry and buffed it out the next day...only 20 hours after the final coats were sprayed.



Now I just need to wait a few days for "baking" and they will all be ready for buffing.

[Mark Crenshaw]

After sitting since last May...the guitar, not me...I've finished it up this weekend. Turns out I wasn't that far from being done.

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Peace,
Mark

[Jim Becker]

Bravo, Mark!!! Another outstanding axe!

[Paul Janders]

Where do you buy the hardware and electronics for a project like this? Is there any style of guitar you would recommend to a rookie guitar builder that would make a good first project? Would it be more or less difficult to build a bass? I've always wanted a 4000 series Rickenbacker bass…

I agree with what other posters have said: You should write a book about this topic. I would be among the first to buy it. I wouldn't mind trying my hand at a project like this and it would be great to have a written guide.

[Mark Crenshaw]

Thanks Jim!

[Mark Crenshaw]

Where do you buy the hardware and electronics for a project like this? Is there any style of guitar you would recommend to a rookie guitar builder that would make a good first project? Would it be more or less difficult to build a bass? I've always wanted a 4000 series Rickenbacker bass…

I agree with what other posters have said: You should write a book about this topic. I would be among the first to buy it. I wouldn't mind trying my hand at a project like this and it would be great to have a written guide.

Hi Paul. Thanks for the comments.

I buy most of my tools and hardware from Stewart MacDonald, some off eBay if I know what I'm looking for. Most of the wood is from various eBay sellers. A Tele is a good starting point for a first build. Very straight forward design...not many surprises. Of course, if you plabe to build a neck, it's much the same challenges for all guitars. Accuracy is key.

I don't know about writing a book. I tend to experiment and make things up along the way too much...might not be good for readers.

Peace,
Mark