Page 5 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast
Results 61 to 75 of 81

Thread: Table Saw

  1. #61
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Haskett View Post
    What are the advantages of the different steel/granite wings? Why is CI so much better than steel wings?
    I have a contractor's saw. It came with stamped steel wings.
    It's really no big deal. I just don't use them.
    I had to build my own table on the right side anyhow to support the 52" fence. On the left side of the saw, there's a very ugly cabinet with drawers that is the same height as the saw (first thing I ever built).

    The wings/side tables don't have to be within .000001" of being level.
    So, IMO, if you are on a tight budget, sacrifice the cast iron wings.

    EDIT: I guess you already bought the saw.. I'm behind. :lol: Enjoy.
    Last edited by Paul Johnstone; 01-06-2010 at 12:17 PM.

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    New Haven County, CT
    Posts
    261
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Haskett View Post
    So after putting it all together, aligning the top, aligning the fence, and checking the blade so that is perfectly perpendicular, is there anything else I need to do before I slice and dice? I have found some info on these things over at the R4511 forum so I should be good to go if that is all I need to do, only thing that stinks is the tools I need to do it are going to be about $150. Is there a cheaper way?
    Another option is a large drafting triangle/square from Staples, Office Depot, etc. Pretty cheap (6 bux or so?) and dead on for 90 and 45 degree. I aligned my 4511 using various methods, and the drafting square was pretty darn accurate for the price.

    A cheap dial indicator can help too, but the square helped me a lot (its easier than a combo square because Ive never liked how the combo square fits into a miter slot while you are trying to make it parallel with the blade)

  3. #63
    Quote Originally Posted by scott spencer View Post
    5¢ Table Saw Alignment An inexpensive Harbor Freight dial indicator can be helpful, but isn't really necessary.
    Scott is giving you some really good advice here. This is exactly how I did it before buying a dial indicator. Here's the original post here at SMC.

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost...6&postcount=10

    You absolutely do not need to spend $150 bucks to tune your new saw. As Scott said, a dial indicator is nice to have, but not necessary. If you do get a dial indicator, the cheap one from HF is plenty good enough for this purpose. The only other thing you'd need is a stick to which you'd attach the DI.

    Even if you go with the stick and the 5 cent screw, you can align your blade and your fence to the miter slot so that it will be well within the acceptable range.

    In fact, I did just that and then checked it with the DI. I was within .002 of my target using the stick and screw, confirmed by the DI method immediately afterward. If I can do it, anyone can!
    Stephen Edwards
    Hilham, TN 38568

    "Build for the joy of it!"

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Middle Tennessee
    Posts
    284
    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen Edwards View Post
    Scott is giving you some really good advice here. This is exactly how I did it before buying a dial indicator. Here's the original post here at SMC.

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost...6&postcount=10

    You absolutely do not need to spend $150 bucks to tune your new saw. As Scott said, a dial indicator is nice to have, but not necessary. If you do get a dial indicator, the cheap one from HF is plenty good enough for this purpose. The only other thing you'd need is a stick to which you'd attach the DI.

    Even if you go with the stick and the 5 cent screw, you can align your blade and your fence to the miter slot so that it will be well within the acceptable range.

    In fact, I did just that and then checked it with the DI. I was within .002 of my target using the stick and screw, confirmed by the DI method immediately afterward. If I can do it, anyone can!
    Thanks for the advice guys, good to hear, as I just went to Woodcraft and saw the prices of all the blades . I can already tell this hobby can get expensive.

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Middle Tennessee
    Posts
    284
    Am I missing something though? You would need about a 6 inch screw to do this not 1 inch?

    EDIT: Nevermind, had a senior moment. Was thinking he was saying to insert it in the slot as you would the bar on the miter gauge.

    GOT IT NOW SORRY!
    Last edited by Bob Haskett; 01-06-2010 at 1:55 PM.

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Middle Tennessee
    Posts
    284
    I found this pdf, while looking around at the methods some of you have suggested. I think I am just going to run down this list of checks and get to hackin!

    Sorry to everyone that I have probably made this way harder than it is...

    Here is the pdf
    http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/pdf...ds-038free.pdf

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Modesto, CA
    Posts
    43
    Hi Bob, I would be patient and wait for a nice used Powermatic model 66 on Craig's list. For a 2 year period of time I was rebuilding PM saws. I was able to find a nice used model 66 saw w/ a 5hp, 3 phase motor for approx. $200-500. You can usually sell the 5hp, 3 phase motors for $25-100, pending condition. Put a new 3hp, single phase Baldor motor on it for about $400 (leeson motor on eBay is about $75 less), new bearing $40, paint $25 and a lot of elbow grease. Total investment was usually about $700. For $700, you might be able to find one of the nice green PM w/ a 2hp, single phase motor. Very nice saw IMO. Tim

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Saint Helens, OR
    Posts
    2,463
    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Morgan View Post
    I think I remember reading about someone having to shim the rail to make it align correctly on the R4511, and that put me off a bit, but if the installation isn't too bad, it is certainly a contender.
    If you rad about the shimming on the Ridgid forum that was my thread.

    It's a simple process. You have to use the Ridgid angle iron bracket. The shims consist of three 1 1/2" x 3' x 1/8" aluminum stock easily purchased at the borg.

    You will have to drill and tap new mounting holes in the rail, but it's pretty simple. I'm going to finish up that thread pretty soon. There's a comedy of errors and what not that are beyond the scope of this thread.
    Measure twice, cut three times, start over. Repeat as necessary.

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Posts
    4,717
    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Peterson View Post
    If you rad about the shimming on the Ridgid forum that was my thread.

    It's a simple process. You have to use the Ridgid angle iron bracket. The shims consist of three 1 1/2" x 3' x 1/8" aluminum stock easily purchased at the borg.

    You will have to drill and tap new mounting holes in the rail, but it's pretty simple. I'm going to finish up that thread pretty soon. There's a comedy of errors and what not that are beyond the scope of this thread.
    It's worth noting that shimming a new tools is fairly common, and one that needs shimming isn't necessarily an induction that others will too...it's usually pretty random.
    Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    New Haven County, CT
    Posts
    261
    Quote Originally Posted by scott spencer View Post
    It's worth noting that shimming a new tools is fairly common, and one that needs shimming isn't necessarily an induction that others will too...it's usually pretty random.
    yeah. Id be more worried if the tool was so far out that shimming wouldnt fix it.

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    West Central Illinois, Rural Wataga, IL
    Posts
    139
    call Ridgid... they replaced some missing washers on my Ridgid Oscillating sander without problems... Check out the Ridgid Forum. Great site with a ton of information... The person that wrote the assembly instructions for the saw wah high on crack... there are much better instructions available via the forum. Especially on putting together the hercu-lift and the dust collection bin... It's a great saw for the money... I don't have much problems with the fence and rails as some do... I've worked with a heck of a lot worse... Good luck with your new toy!!

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Middle Tennessee
    Posts
    284
    Done with assembly! Nothing to it right??

    I put on this blade: http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/202...Saw-Blade.aspx

    Anyways I tuned it as well. I followed some tips from this forum as well as from the PDF doc I linked above. It may not be accurate to .001 but it should be OK for now.

    I really appreciate all the tips, tricks, encouragement, advice, etc.

    One other question I had is....

    How do I make this fence slide more smoothly? I got it dead accurate, it just does not slide very smoothly.

    Also, how big of a chip in the granite should it be before it needs to be replaced? The left wing came with 3 small chips right where it butts up to the main table.
    Last edited by Bob Haskett; 01-06-2010 at 10:38 PM.

  13. #73
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Saint Helens, OR
    Posts
    2,463
    Bob - you may be able to repair those chips. However I would contact Ridgid first.

    This is a really nice saw. It's a shame they discontinued it. But it seems there were too many QC problems. My first saw was severely damaged and had to be exchanged. On the replacement saw the front angle iron bracket that supports the fence rail was distorted so that it resembled a lasagna noodle. Granted it was slight, but when the fence rises up 1/8" from the blade to the edge of the right wing, something is amiss. For $500 I am not expecting perfection, but this was not a deficiency I was willing to live with. Ridgid replaced it no questions asked.
    Last edited by Greg Peterson; 01-06-2010 at 11:48 PM.
    Measure twice, cut three times, start over. Repeat as necessary.

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Middle Tennessee
    Posts
    284
    Does your fence slide smoothly? If so, did you do anything to it?

  15. #75
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Posts
    4,717
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Haskett View Post
    Does your fence slide smoothly? If so, did you do anything to it?
    Once you get it adjusted, wax the top and the inside of the rail, but not the frontside where the clamp tightens.
    Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •