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Thread: Where to get parts for Dayton electric motor

  1. #1
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    Where to get parts for Dayton electric motor

    I have a piece of equipment that has a dayton electric motor on it. Someone took the capacitor and starter off to use it on a piece of equipment in the field that was down.

    I cannot find any reference for replacement parts for that motor. Since I don't have the capacitor or the starter, I can't pull parts off it to cross reference and when I put the motor model number in google, I don't get much help at all. I've been to grainer's site with no luck at all.

    Anyone know how/where to find the right parts for this motor? It's the difference in a $30 fix for the parts or a $400 fix for a new motor. It's a backup for me, so I'd rather not spend $400 to have it sit idle as a backup, but I'd be happy to spend $30 to have the backup.

    Any suggestions?
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    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Shepherd View Post
    I have a piece of equipment that has a dayton electric motor on it. Someone took the capacitor and starter off to use it on a piece of equipment in the field that was down.
    Scott,

    Is it a single phase motor?

    Is it 110v or 220v or what?

    When you say, "starter" are you talking about a delay relay or just a switch?

    Most AC motors have a centrifugal switch inside to drop out the start-winding (determines run direction). You could try measuring the resistance of both the run and start the windings. From there an educated guess at capacitor size in uF may be doable. You would need to open the motor to measure around the start winding.

    If the "starter" is a delay relay instead of the centrifugal switch, I think you will find the bill will be a good bit more than 30-bucks.

    Probably best to take it to an electric motor guy.
    Dave J
    Forums: Where all too often, logic is the first casualty.

  3. #3

    Dayton Motor

    Look up W. W. Grainger, Even if you can not find it on their site or in the book. Get their "Technical" number in Chicago. Give them the part number that is on the motor and they will be able to help. I have had them help me out on repair parts and manuals for stuff that I had bought in the '60's

    Good Luck,

    Dave

  4. #4
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    It's 110,single phase, and it has 2 things missing from it. I'm not an electronics guy, so my terms are far from accurate, but it appears there is a starter capacitor and a run capacitor. Both are missing. I have the exact same piece of equipment from years later that's got the same HP motor, but the electronic specs are different on the capacitors. Not sure how or why, but I had someone that knows that stuff in here and they looked at it in passing, and said I could not just use the same capacitors that go in the new motor (which are readily available and easily found on grainger's site).

    The cost of the 2 items for the new motor is about $30, that's where I got the number from.

    I'll call grainger on Monday and see if they can help.
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    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Shepherd View Post
    it appears there is a starter capacitor and a run capacitor. Both are missing.
    What about a pic of the connections where the items have been removed?

    Consider removing the covers and see if there is a centrifugal switch inside.

    A pic of the name-plate may help too. Does it say "reversible?" Two capacitors can suggest reversible running depending on how the switch is wired.

    I suspect a trip to a motor repairer is the best option, as the friend said, it may not be a simple copy. About equal chance that a copy might work though. An exploding start/run cap will shake the nerves a bit but it is usually pretty benign as "explosions" go. Don't ask, in fact don't ask many times.
    Dave J
    Forums: Where all too often, logic is the first casualty.

  6. #6
    Scott,

    Here's another alternative. I have a belt sander that had a delay relay on it instead of the centrifugal switch. The relay burned out and I could not find a correct replacement so I added in a momentary switch (center OFF) wired to the start windings.

    To start the sander, I hold down the momentary (silver lever) to include the start winding, then press the on/off switch. After a second or two I release the momentary and all runs fine.

    It ain't pretty but works a treat.
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    Dave J
    Forums: Where all too often, logic is the first casualty.

  7. #7
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    Scott,
    Dayton Motors are a major listing in the Grainger catalog. It may be their own in-house motor.
    Ed

  8. #8
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    Thanks, I called Grainger this morning, they spoke to their tech support people while I was on hold, came back, had the part numbers, and they are delivering them to the local Grainger here, so I can pick them up tomorrow. Total cost was $28. Sure beats the $400 for a new motor with them already on it.
    Trotec Speedy 300 75W Universal PLS4.60 with Rotary Attachment
    HP Designjet L26500 61" Wide Format Latex Printer
    ShopBot 48" x 96" CNC Router, Ricoh Dye Sublimation Printer
    Summa S140-T 48" Vinyl Plotter, Xenetech XOT 13 x 13 Rotary Engraver, Corel X5, Adobe Creative Cloud

    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

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