Power drop over workbench

[Scot Roberge]

I recently moved my workbench from its place against a wall out into an area where I can work all the way around it. I'd like to have a power drop of some sort over the work area so I don't have to run an extension cord across the floor. I don't feel the need for a rectracting extension cord mechanism, just a couple outlets hanging over the workbench at a reachable height. Anybody have ideas on the hardware to do this?

[Alan Schaffter]

I recently moved my workbench from its place against a wall out into an area where I can work all the way around it. I'd like to have a power drop of some sort over the work area so I don't have to run an extension cord across the floor. I don't feel the need for a rectracting extension cord mechanism, just a couple outlets hanging over the workbench at a reachable height. Anybody have ideas on the hardware to do this?

I have a Rockler retracting reel with 3 outlet receptacle on the end. If you don't want the reel, you need to get cords with strain reliefs on them to keep the cord from coming out of the electrical box. The strain relief looks like one of the childrens' Chinese finger torture toys except made from wire.

[Chris Parks]

This may be an idea that works. Run a wire overhead and using an extension cord attach some rings to the cord at suitable intervals with tape, zip ties etc. Run the overhead wire through the rings and attach wire in place. You can now pull the cord along to where you want to work or pull it back out of the way. A bit hard to explain but it works. The distance between the rings defines how big the loops are when the cord is fully retracted so to speak. Clear as mud?

[Clay Crocker]

I mounted an electrical junction box to the ceiling then dropped from there some 12 Ga electric cord using a strain relief cord grip from Grainger. On the bottom end of the cord you can install the outlet arrangement of your choice.

[Aaron Wingert]

I mounted an electrical junction box to the ceiling then dropped from there some 12 Ga electric cord using a strain relief cord grip from Grainger. On the bottom end of the cord you can install the outlet arrangement of your choice.

If you want it hard wired, that's the ticket. The strain relief is critical to a safe (and code-compliant) installation. Use type SO cord for the drops.

[Alan Schaffter]

Here is a pic of a Leviton strain relieve. They come in different sizes for different size cord and are made to fit a standard metal box/cover knock-out. They should be available at any electrical supply or big box store. You can get them in metal and nylon, straight or right angle. They can be a little pricey.

[Scot Roberge]

I knew there had to be some way do do this safely and the info on strain relief for the cabling was just the education I needed. I'll poke around Home Depot tomorrow and follow up with a trip to an electrical supply house if necessary. Thanks to all!

[Aaron Wingert]

Scot, my local box stores don't carry the type SO cord by the foot, so I've had to go to the supply house when I need it. I'm sure that varies by store location though. Just be prepared for the guy that works in the electrical aisle at the box store to glaze over (or hand you a romex connector) when you ask for a strain relief gadget!

[Rod Sheridan]

I knew there had to be some way do do this safely and the info on strain relief for the cabling was just the education I needed. I'll poke around Home Depot tomorrow and follow up with a trip to an electrical supply house if necessary. Thanks to all!

Hi Scot, my drop cord over my bench is made that way, in addition it's fed from a GFCI receptacle in the ceiling so I have ground fault protection with it.

My shop floor is conductive, and of course the drop cord is used with portable tools.

[Rick Garner]

Scot,

I did exactly what you are thinking about two or three years ago.
I have two drops hanging from the ceiling to about 2' above my workbench that I use for the sander, router, circ saw, etc.
Every time I plug something in, I have to deal with the hanging cord of the particular tool being in the way of my work.
If I had to do it over, I would make one drop in the least used corner of my workbench that connects to a powerstrip underneath that's easily accessible. (maybe two, one on each end??)
You could work out how to wire the powerstrip under the bench so that clamping or holdowns or ??? are not affected.
With the power source under the edge of the bench, all your tool cords will hang down and be out of your way.
JMHO, Rick

[John Grabowski]

hmm...I realize that you dont really want to have something to possibly trip over, but this may be a something for you to consider...I ran 1/2in conduit to my outfeed table/ assembly table so I could put 2 boxes with a total of 3 receptecles in there. I then bought some cheap mats from HF and put a space for the conduit to run through. It works great. Now I have 12-2 going to the work surface, 20 Amps and 6 outles total.

Just an idea. I dont like have things hanging above. The outlets are mounted just underneath the work area. Works out really nice.

I can take photos if you would like to see.

John G

[Scot Roberge]

Aaron:
Man, I sure know what you mean by the "glaze over". Sometimes you just want to avoid the salespeople 'cause it's so unlikely they will have a clue.

Rod:
GFI - definitely a good idea.

Rick:
That's something I hadn't thought of, but I can see the aggravation. I'll go as high as I can comfortably reach to plug in . . . or mount a strip below benchtop height.

John:
Good ideas. Along with Rick's observation on hanging electrical cords, I'll go back to the shop and sit and meditate on your recommendation a bit before making my final decision to go "hanging".

Thanks, all!

[kenneth kayser]

I would definitely vote to wire the bench. Put outlet strips on both long sides. I would then run one cord over the floor and, if necessary, run it through a slanted edge trough, like contractors use when running cables or hoses over a road (but smaller). My table saw is powered by a cord over the floor. I never trip on it because I know it is there and it never is moved. I think a drop over a table saw or bench could be a real pain at times. For my jointer, however, I do use a drop because the cord will never interfere with the operation of a jointer.

Of course, it depends largely on the work you do. But, if you really want a drop, use just one and wire the whole table. Make at least one connection with a plug so that you can remove the drop if necessary.

[Mike Heidrick]

Scott, I have a strain relief that is designed to hang from a ceiling. Came from a school shop that had above head drops. You can add it to your length of power cord before you wire in your box. If you want it PM me your address and I will mail it out to you. Might save you 10 bucks or so.