Expectations from 6" Jointer

[Tony Shea]

Last I go to the table saw and put the jointed edge against the fence and cut the other size parallel. The final step is to flip the board over and make a very light cut on the jointed edge to clean it up and take off the ridges from the jointer blades.

I don't own a jointer myself but use a very nice 8 incher at my uncle's shop quite a bit. In my experience I get a great surface that would probably just get worse if I ran it through my table saw. Not only would the surface get worse but I would also run the risk of the board becoming slightly out of square if I was to run it through the TS. This is after I've spent numerous hours keeping up with my TS alignment. I just trust the jointer much more than the TS as far as milling lumber and producing glue ready joints. But then again, I am fairly new at this woodworking hobby and can't preach my technique as it is mostly self taught. My point is that if your jointer is not producing glue ready joints, then something is not right.

[Buck Williams]

Just my opinion, but I expect that a jointer should give you a smooth square cut, I use it to clean up rip cuts on the table saw, instead of using the table saw to clean up jointed edges. I usually use a good Amana or Freud combination blade as opposed to a Glue Line Rip blade for ripping and expect that the jointer will clean up the occasional blade swirl, and leave an edge very close to finish quality. Besides squaring up a rough edge, IMHO another function of a jointer is to give you a good clean square edge for panel glue ups. I guess I've been lucky with the 2 jointers I have owned in that the knives were set well, out of the box, and needed no adjustment, and I could expect a good clean edge.

[Rod Sheridan]

A jointer should give you a very good surface, far better than a saw cut.

I frequently remove 2mm (about 1/12") in a single pass when edge or face jointing.

Here are some things to check

- knives sharp?

- knives set to proper height in cutterhead

- outfeed table set to correct height

Once the above are checked an/or corrected you should have a good starting point.

Regards, Rod.

[Bob Haskett]

I ordered replacement knives from Grizzly, so we shall see. I can get the waves out by slowing down my feed, but the ridges that run the length of the board I cannot get rid of. I tried readjusting my knives but I am still getting a visible very thin line that runs the entire length of the board.

[Chip Lindley]

Bob, quick and dirty, concerning nicked knives. When edge jointing stock, the fence can be slid in to use a different section of the blade. That's TOO easy! If your jointer has jack screws for knife adjustment, it is totally easy to loosen the gib bolts to allow sliding one knife left or right, just enough to offset that ridge you are getting. Shift a second knife just barely in the opposite direction and retighten. This will give a new edge across the full width of the knives. (until you nick them again)

As mentioned, learn how to check and adjust your jointer knife settings. A well-tuned jointer IS capable of giving a very smooth finish to hard- or soft wood. Feed rate is a deciding factor. There is no hurry. As you gain time on your jointer, you will gain more insight and intuitive feel for the machine.

I LOVE using the jointer. It is the first step in discovering what beautiful grain rough-sawed wood has inside. Especially well-weathered stuff! It is also the machine for taking cup and twist out to flatten a board face perfectly. Then straight-edging, before running through the thickness planer.

[Scott Cardais]

All:

The question about my jointer was my first posting to this forum. The response was terrific. Thanks to everyone who shared their experience and suggestions. This is a great resource.

Based on the answers I received to my question, I now know that I should expect a smooth clean surface ready for glue up with no additional steps even on hardwood assuming my knives are sharp and level, I remove 1 /64th - 1/32nd of an inch per pass, I reduce my feed rate and I pay attention to the grain of the wood.

Sincerely,

Scott C.

[Lance Norris]

Based on the answers I received to my question, I now know that I should expect a smooth clean surface ready for glue up with no additional steps even on hardwood assuming my knives are sharp and level, I remove 1 /64th - 1/32nd of an inch per pass, I reduce my feed rate and I pay attention to the grain of the wood.

You got it...