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Thread: Drill Press fence ideas wanted

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Victor, Idaho
    Posts
    720

    Drill Press fence ideas wanted

    I was looking at my bench top drill press today thinking that it's one machine I have not tricked out very well yet. It's just a bench top model, and about all I've done is make a melamine table and a simple pipe clamp fence--barely a step up from the old C-clamp and board method.

    I don't really use it very often, but when I do I often end up fiddling with clamps and little blocks of wood to create a stop system on the fence.

    Any suggestions on how to build a better fence with maybe a couple flip stops on each side? I have the Kreg stop system on my miter saw (you guys do have a stop system for your miter saw right????), but purchasing 4 flip stops and track seems expensive for the drill press.

    Thanks, Steve
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Mosby's Confederacy
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    I've found that with the flip stops, they often are in the way of the handle. I could probably fix this if I gave it some thought, but thinking makes my hair hurt.

    All I did for my fence was rout a channel in the bottom to accommodate a piece of track, and two slots in the D/P table, on either side for 1/4-20 hex screws, with locking knobs below. Screwed a piece of track on the top for the stops.

  3. #3
    Here's what I did:

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=119860

    Look through the tread and you'll see several pics of he fence and stops. It was very inexpensive to build and works well.

    Good luck with your project.
    Stephen Edwards
    Hilham, TN 38568

    "Build for the joy of it!"

  4. #4
    Flip stops are approximations. Rough work only? Then you're ok with them.
    Centered holes for shelving, e.g., are very intolerant to error. A flip stop can easily enjoy .005" slop. Drill 20 holes and you're out 20 x .005 = .10, nearly an 1/8".
    Clamp down stops with abrasive on one side will stop the work. Spacers, then, can be used for adjusting centers. Take it all lightly and the holes will not be where you want them.
    Moreover, your work & fence have to be straight for all holes that reference the edge of stock.
    This fence is used just to locate the hole in the y-dimension (from the work edge).

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Victor, Idaho
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    Thanks for the idea Stephen. That looks like the ultimate drill press! I might do something similar, perhaps with about half the features of yours...

    -Steve

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Victor, Idaho
    Posts
    720
    Good point about the flip stop accuracy, but I can't think of any drill press operations I have done which it would be a problem. I use jigs for shelf holes for example.

    The appeal of flip stops would be when you have left and right parts with say 2 pilot holes--that would require 4 different stop locations and 2 trips to the drill for each part.

    -Steve

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Griffin View Post
    Thanks for the idea Stephen. That looks like the ultimate drill press! I might do something similar, perhaps with about half the features of yours...-Steve
    Thanks, Steve. The main thing that I wanted to point out is that you can make an acceptable, easy to use DP Fence with stops (though mine aren't flip stops) for very little money.

    You may already be aware of it but the Rockler T-Slot router bit is money well spent for using their T-Bolts and handles/knobs of all kinds. In many shop built jigs/fixtures that T-Slot eliminates the need for the aluminum T-Track, thus saving us a bundle.
    Stephen Edwards
    Hilham, TN 38568

    "Build for the joy of it!"

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