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Thread: Raising my shop ceiling??

  1. I'm doing this same thing but replacing the current rafter ties with collar ties (top 1/3rd instead of bottom third). At the rafter/top plate connection, I'm attaching hurricane ties. Because I'm removing the rafter ties, I'm replacing them with steel cable let through the double top plate on either side backed up with steel plates to keep the ends from pulling back through. I also added a support post from the footing to the ridge.

    I wanted a higher unobstructed ceiling, but the steel cable is a nice compromise.

  2. #17
    Seek professional advice. 2x6 24" OC sounds very near the edge of what you need to carry a snow load. An architect can feed this into a spreadsheet and design 3 choices all of which will pass muster, handle a snow load and maybe even save you some work. This isn't something I would design on a napkin.
    .
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  3. #18
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    Another point - to my knowledge, no building code either US or international, allows SCREWS to be used for ANY structural/framing connections - only nails. While screws do tend to have greater pullout resistance, they have nowhere near the SHEAR strength of the code-specified nails... Steve

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Leverich View Post
    Another point - to my knowledge, no building code either US or international, allows SCREWS to be used for ANY structural/framing connections - only nails. While screws do tend to have greater pullout resistance, they have nowhere near the SHEAR strength of the code-specified nails... Steve
    +1
    Very good Point
    the higher up the collar ties the more stress on the joint
    3/8 bolts would be better
    while people talk about snow loads and engineers I think you would be safe with 2x8s bolts and hurricane ties if done withing the bottom third
    If you are still worried sister the the lower third

    My advice is worth what you paid
    $0.00

  5. #20
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    All good information were sharing.

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by David Prince View Post
    Or you could rebuild your rafters something like this:

    After giving this some thought, I WOULD reframe the rafters this way if I wanted to create some head-room. I WOULD feel comfortable with this design holding the load. Use 2 x 6 lumber and nail them on with gusset plates at each intersection (1/2 in. plywood). This design will effectively distribute your load back to the plate where it is at this time. IMO

  7. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Jason White View Post
    I have a one-car garage with a typical "gable" style roof. Currently, the ceiling joists are 1x6's, and serve as the "rafter ties." The roof pitch is 10/12 (or close to it). Rafters are 2x6 spaced 24" o.c.

    I'd like to gain a few more inches of ceiling height. Planning to remove the joists and install 2x8 rafter ties in the lower third of the rafter length.

    Anybody here done this? Was it worth the effort? I currently have 8 feet of ceiling height, but am constantly hitting the fluorescents with clamps, boards, etc. Just a matter of time before one of them comes crashing down. When all is said and done, I'll gain another 6-8 inches of ceiling height.

    Jason
    I did this exact thing in my two car garage. Raised the ceiling from 8 to 9 feet. I replaced (8) 1x6 with (12) 2x6. Block it in and covered the bottom with 1/2" ply (heavy). Seems the goal here would be to spin a piece of 4x8 plywood vertically. If not, it wouldn't be worth it (IMO).

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Yes, Mike. That's pretty much the goal.

    Look guys, I appreciate all the warnings about engineers, blueprints, etc., but I already talked to my town inspector and had a builder friend check out my garage and offer advice. Both say I'm fine raising my rafter ties a few inches. None of this is rocket science.

    I just wanted to know from people with experience doing this whether it was worth the trouble and expense.

    Jason

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Hollingsworth View Post
    I did this exact thing in my two car garage. Raised the ceiling from 8 to 9 feet. I replaced (8) 1x6 with (12) 2x6. Block it in and covered the bottom with 1/2" ply (heavy). Seems the goal here would be to spin a piece of 4x8 plywood vertically. If not, it wouldn't be worth it (IMO).

  9. #24
    Join Date
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    Was it worth it yes.

    My garage had no insulation and only 3 rafter ties. By raising the ties up and adding additional rafters, etc I got to raise the center to 13 ft.

    Also added 10 lights and the Dayton heater it's time to build some benches.

    Here's a few before and after pictures.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    How did you get away with raising the rafter ties so high up? By adding more rafters?

    Jason

    Quote Originally Posted by Don Jarvie View Post
    Was it worth it yes.

    My garage had no insulation and only 3 rafter ties. By raising the ties up and adding additional rafters, etc I got to raise the center to 13 ft.

    Also added 10 lights and the Dayton heater it's time to build some benches.

    Here's a few before and after pictures.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Boston
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    The garage is 70 years old and the only thing holding the walls was 3 - 2x6s. The ceiling had 2x6s for joists 24 on center and 2x6 along the ridge.

    I basically reinforced the wholw thing. Doubled up the 2x6s on each end and the center. Put the rafter ties about 1/2 way down, added supports from floor to ceiling on each end to support the ridge beam.

    Then added hurricane straps, joist hangers and screwed everything with 3 inch deck screws. Also screwed all of the 2x4s in the wall to tighten them up. I can't afford a framing nailer and hammering nails all day on a ladder wasn't going to work.

    Only thing that will ko the garage will be a tree falling on it. Snow melts within a day or two. It's been up for 70 years and it's more sound than before.

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