I have added a second pictorial to the Mortice-and-Tenon primer: Drawboring.
The link is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/Drawboring.html
Regards from Perth
Derek
I have added a second pictorial to the Mortice-and-Tenon primer: Drawboring.
The link is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/Drawboring.html
Regards from Perth
Derek
Nice tutorial Derek. As always, your articles are a pleasure to read.
Nice tutorial. Some questions.
1. Did you insert the drawbore pin from only one side?
2. Was it the pin insertion side?
3. Did you try to drive the pins with light or heavy hits?
4. Have you ever used wax to make driving easier?
5. If the joint needs redone or repaired, do you recommend either pounding out the pin or drilling?
6. Was the bit for your brace make the same sized hole as the dowel?
(Some bits are slightly oversized)
7. When the drill bit broke into the mortise, did you go back and clean it up somehow or did you use a filler in the mortise?
Thanks Derek.
Eric
Good questions, Eric ...
1. Did you insert the drawbore pin from only one side?
2. Was it the pin insertion side?
yes and yes
3. Did you try to drive the pins with light or heavy hits?
light-moderate hits are all that are necessary
4. Have you ever used wax to make driving easier?
No. Not necessary.
5. If the joint needs redone or repaired, do you recommend either pounding out the pin or drilling?
You can knock out the pin
6. Was the bit for your brace make the same sized hole as the dowel?
(Some bits are slightly oversized)
mine was a good match in size
7. When the drill bit broke into the mortise, did you go back and clean it up somehow or did you use a filler in the mortise?
I have compared the breakout of a brace/auger, eggbeater and power drills with bradpoints. The brace and eggbeater created much the same amount of breakout inside the mortice, with the power drill (and higher speed) the least. How much? This can vary per wood type. If you are concerned, add a blank into the mortice. I mostly get a few splinters and just remove them.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Great tutorial, as always. Thank you for posting.
One quick question, is there any advantage to lining up the end grain of the dowel so it runs with the grain of the stile? I thought I read somewhere that was a good thing to do, but other than cosmetics I can't see a reason to do it.
Thanks again.
Jeff
Jeff
I must admit that this has never occurred to me to do. I doubt that it would add anything to the strength of the joint.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Do you use glue in the joint? If not, why not? Thanks
Life's too short to use old sandpaper.
Hi Bob
The use of glue is optional.
A drawbored joint is pulled together tightly and the pin creates a strong mechanical connection. The advantage of this is that gaps in less-than-perfect joints are removed and any potential expansion of gaps (due to moisture) is minimised. You can use glue for a permanent joint, but it is not necessary as the internal tension of the pin will hold the joint together.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Where I have seen this mentioned is when using large dowels (e.g. 1"). The reason for lining the dowel grain perpendicular to the surface grain is so that if the dowel expands it will not split the surface wood. I made use of this technique for a sawbench I built.
Draw boring originated with timber framing using green wood to compensate for the shrinkage when drying, I don't drawbore very often in dry wood and if I do I don't drill the hole off very much and just taper the end of the peg like the old timers did.
my 2 cents
Jr.
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What keeps the joint from separating after you remove the steel drawbore pin and before you insert the wooden dowel?
James
Nothing. The drawbore just allows you to test fit the joint, to make sure its fitting properly. If you didn't use a drawbore pin you would have to put the dowel in and set the joint to see how it fit. Getting the dowel back out of the joint, if it needs adjustments, is much more difficult than removing the tapered drawbore. Test with a drawbore pin, finish with dowel.
Rob
Makes sense, thanks.
James
Or, if the tenon is wide enough for a double drawbore, as is sometimes the case, leave the pin in one of the holes while driving the peg through the other.