Painted Shop Cabinet - Progress Pics

[Todd Burch]

I'm making another shop cabinet, this time for hardware. I'm painting it. 2 coats of Federal Blue milk paint followed by 2 coats of BLO/Varnish/Turp.

I've yet to make the 51 drawers... The bottom piece will hold 9 drawers, all the same size. (3 wide, 3 tall). They will be on full extension slides (20"). The top will hold 42 drawers, 7 wide by 6 high, all the same size. (7 1/8" wide, 8 1/2" deep, 5" tall).

I've got calls in to a couple specialty shops for quotes on the 42 drawers, but am finding that most production shops won't do stock as thin as I want. I can kick out the 9 big drawers fast enough, but the 42 would be a pain.

Anyone want to bid them out? I'm looking for 1/4" to 3/8" thick stock, half blind or thru dovetails, (tight joinery), 1/8" ply or solid wood bottoms floating in a groove 1/4" from the bottom. White pine would be fine, or some other light-weight wood (poplar would be OK). Also, a 1/8" wide dado cut twice in each side so that I could install partitions if I so choose. I need thee unfinished. These drawers will hold hardware, loose and in boxes.

I'll make the drawer fronts. I've purchased the wood knobs already. All drawer fronts and knobs will be painted yellow.

The construction I used on both pieces was quick and simple, but I am sure will prove to hold up well over the years. I assembled all the pine frames with glue and pocket screws. For the panels, I stapled 1/4" plywood to the inside of the frames. I added stock cove mouldings inside the frames to transition to the panels. The top of the lower piece is birch ply, wrapped with 1" poplar with a full bullnose.

The middle feet in front are double-biscuited to the lower front rail. Same feet in back. The back is 3/4" pine screwed to each of the vertical webbings.

So, any takers on the drawers? I need them fast!
Thanks, Todd

[Bob Worrel Jr.]

Todd
First...I don't have a picture of myself like everyone else has. I'm an ugly looking guy. I like your idea, can I borrow yours?
The cabinet looks great. I've been wanting to do a finish like that on a similar project. Post another picture when it's completed.
The drawers? sounds like a perfect training for that dove tail jig

Good luck on the rest of that cabinet. It's loking terrific.

[Todd Burch]

Thanks Bob. If you are indeed ugly, yes, please take a picture of the back of your head too!!

I've found a supplier for these drawers... $14.25 each, plus $0.50 each for packaging, plus shipping from Az.

And, since the lower drawers, at 16 1/4" wide, 20" deep and 8" tall (1/2" Baltic Birch, 1/2 blind dovetails) were only $15/each, I ordered those 9 drawers as well. Now, I get to hurry up and wait a week and a couple days.

In the mean time, on to my next project...

[Jim Becker]

That's a beaut, Todd. I like how your continuing to put in "nice" cabinetry in your shop. 'Glad you found a source for the drawers given the amount of time to do them in-house would be a kick against the paying work! (I did the same for the kitchen project and it was money well-spent)

[Christian Aufreiter]

Very nice. Even too nice for a shop cabinet.
BTW, I think it's time to post a shop tour!
I bet it looks finer than an typical living room

Regards,

Christian

[Alan Turner]

I am mentally exploring a shop cabinet as well, but this for carving tools. My thinking was that I would run 1/8" or 1/4" slots in the risers (vertical dividers) and attact the drawer bottoms to the bottom of the drawer sides, extended beyond the sides enough to ride in the grooves. Either 3mm of 6mm BB ply for the bottoms. This may be called the NK system, but I am not sure. I don't think I will dovetail my drawers, just to save time. May use 6mm or 12mm BB for the sides and backs.
Any thoughts from fellwo creekers on this idea?
Alan

[Todd Burch]

Alan, that's how I built my Sandpaper cabinet (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...dpaper+cabinet). My "drawers" are more like shelves though. They slide nice. I used 12mm BB for the sides and 1/4" ply for the shelf bottoms (it's what I had laying around in my way). Not sure about the NK system.

Todd

[Mike Mastin]

Todd,

I have been planning to build a sales counter in the shop and was wanting to do something different other than just wood or sheetrock to cover the front and sides. I like the milk paint idea, plus it adds some subtle pizzaz to the piece.

[Jim Becker]

I have been planning to build a sales counter in the shop and was wanting to do something different other than just wood or sheetrock to cover the front and sides.

Shouldn't you be using...umm....Curly Wood????

[Mike Mastin]

....I need to sell lumber not flaunt it at customers. Besides the sheer cost of sheathing a sales counter with premium figured wood makes my head spin.
I was thinking of making the top out a nice wide piece of curly lumber though

[Donnie Raines]

Shouldn't you be using...umm....Curly Wood????

Just sent some burls out to Mike today....those would make a wonderful counter top!!...

For the record...these burls were not the ones I have had listed on the net!..

[Jim Becker]

Mike...this is a great opportunity for you to put that nice big band saw to work making veneers from Curly Wood to top some cheap plywood... ...at least as accent pieces. But I do like your idea for the counter top, especially if it happens to be a natural edge slice a la Nakashima!

[Chris Padilla]

....I need to sell lumber not flaunt it at customers. Besides the sheer cost of sheathing a sales counter with premium figured wood makes my head spin.
I was thinking of making the top out a nice wide piece of curly lumber though

Mike,

Pssst!

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=13268

[Mike Mastin]

Thanks Chris. I have a photo now

[Mike Mastin]

I simply do not have the time to do anything to radical to be honest more than the cost of the wood. I seem to pass my self in the hallway anymore.

Yes I do want to do something with a natural edge if I can locate something that will work. I was really leaning towards a Mesquite top for the counter, but I want to find a special piece of figured wood if I can, but it would have to be a big one! My counter will be approx. 16' long as it will wrap in a "C" shape (think rectangular not curvy )

Who knows it still might be a totally figured counter area, but with my work load I just hope to have the time to build it right now.