Alternatives to Tapcons?

[Phil Thien]

I wouldn't. Having the edges of the standard against the block helps distribute the load and adds friction in the shear plane, keeping some of the shear force off the fastener. Adding that washer as a spacer will only serve to give the shelf load more leverage against the fasteners and their grip in the block.

I agree, if I had perfectly flat walls. There are gaps between the block and the standard in a few spots, though, which is where I hope to sneak the fender washer in.

[Andrew Nemeth]

Phil,

I have run hundreds, if not thousands, of tapcons. I can't ever remember breaking one. i have stripped a few but managed to get them back out it needed. Use the proper sized bit and make sure you don't bottom out the screw in the hole by ensuring the hole is drilled deep enough.

A thought on the system you are using. I have a similar set up in my shop for storing lumber. As shelves they don't work that great for me, kinda floppy, and lots of sag with 3/4" shelf material when spacing 24"-36" apart. I like to hang my shelves with the rear of the shelf attached directly to a wall and fasten it every 8"-12", it makes a much more stable setup.

I know I did not explain that the best, but if you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Andrew

[David Prince]

If you just want something to keep it in place, use a nylon anchor. Drill out the appropriate hole and pound this in.

[Ken Burner]

You've probably decided on a solution already, but in case you don't already have enough options... On a recent episode of Ask This Old House, Tom Silva used "spring spikes" to attach lath over foam board on concrete basement walls. Here's a discussion about sources: http://advice.thisoldhouse.com/showthread.php?t=56213


Ken

[Gary Redden]

I would just use nail-in anchors to attach them. I use them all the time when I hang cabinets onto block walls. They work really really well.

Gary

[Gary McKown]

and others about using a plywood backing with cleats over the top of the wall, rather than those thick standards and floppy shelves. I have these all over the outside walls of my basement shop, some with shelves, some with nails or screws to hang things, and some to mount those plastic-drawer storage cabinets for all the small hardware, etc.

Half-inch plywood works for most and puts the load much closer to the wall, which is a good thing. For a truly stout configuration, run the wood all the way to the floor.

[Bruce Wrenn]

For plastic inserts, I use the Alligator brand ones by Toggler. A few years back, I built some cabinets to go in the alcove above some vending machines. Alcove was 14' long, and cabinets were 32" high, and 32" deep. These cabinets would be used to store printed matter. Total load, including cabinets was over two tons. I chose the Alligator ones because they had the highest pull out resistance. Their shear strength was dependent upon what kind of screw I used. Both Grainger and Fastenal carry them, but they aren't cheap. But remember you get what you pay for.

[John Coloccia]

re: tapcons snapping

I had this problem too when I hung my insulation. I started driving the tapcons with an impact wrench, and they stopped snapping. Don't ask me why, but I haven't snapped one since.

[daniel valentine]

If the walls are fully grouted CMU, a wooden dowel inserted into a drilled hole in the CMU and a wood screw should do the trick. As far as a spacer between the vertical metal support and wall, a piece of wood that fits between the lip of the U-shaped support with a pre-drilled hole to accommodate the passing of the screw should work. These are all "cheap" solutions, many other options out there.