if you are using the saw properly your arm is straight to the shoulder and you have alot of strength technically its climbing but with a straight arm not bent if it starts to you are holding it back into an area with no material behind it to grab so you are stopping it from feeding forward
I worked for an old navy guy for a bit he always used it backward first saw him cutting aluminum on it. I pulled but also tried it the other way around a number of times no issues with that guess cause of the blade that was in it and the blade tendency was not to lift up as much as it could as the blade was only 1/8" into the table. I would go with pull I think his push thing developed from cutting aluminum., Lots of fingers were gone but from the table saw because he thought he could do anything never trained and he was a drunk.
Pull it towards you keep your arm straight to the shoulder if it catches to come to you hold it back easily and no material to grab. if your elbow is bent you dont have the same strength ive never seen anyone say how to use the thing straight arm to the shoulder, no manuals anyway but sure its out there
Last edited by Warren Lake; 10-27-2016 at 7:09 AM.
My RAS climbed so bad that even though I was pushing it was a pull cut. JK
That is going to be one of the next things I do. Fortunately bearings for that saw are common and inexpensive.
Pull it. Some say push. Ignore them.
Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night
I push through aluminum and pull through wood
I opened the motor up and the arbor end bearing had been replaced as I don't think DeWalt used a Japanese NTN bearing in the 1950s. The bell end bearing was an original New Departure unit though. I replaced both and the saw now takes about 40 seconds to spin down.
No.
- You can adjust a table to be flat with no slope using no more than the "bottom" tooth on the blade or a steel ruler clamped in the arbor washers. Yes, it's fiddly, but it's no less fiddly to get a cabinet saw's top, trunion, and rip fence squared up the first time.
- A quality saw in decent repair won't have slop in the carriage bearings or column. Cheap garbage will go out of adjustment as soon as you look at it the second time, and worn out/poorly maintained equipment will have slop as well. That is true for all equipment be it a RAS, a tablesaw, a bandsaw, a chop saw, a circular saw, or any other tool.
My wife really likes the guys who push a radial arm saw. Of course she works in an operating room and they pay some of our bills. She also says you should stop before the "one last cut" includes anatomical parts. But hey, if it generates money forego safety. Always pull if you are wanting to be safe.
I pull my RAS but for SCMS I use a 'hybrid' technique I saw a finish guy use (he was pretty good).
He did a light scoring cut on the pull stoke to eliminate tear-out on the top surface - plunged then pushed to complete the cut.
works pretty slick and takes no additional effort - give it a try
RAS are generally under powered, so the blade thickness and tooth geometry play an important part in your safety. Dewalt recommended pulling with your left hand and holding with your right hand. I've been a sawyer on large construction sites, so I have some experience with RAS. I also can order 10 beer at a time.