On saws with TPI of 14 or greater, how critical is tooth to tooth " perfection"
in a sharpened saw. If TPI varies up and down along the length of the blade; if the individual teeth have some variance in profile and angle?
On saws with TPI of 14 or greater, how critical is tooth to tooth " perfection"
in a sharpened saw. If TPI varies up and down along the length of the blade; if the individual teeth have some variance in profile and angle?
I don't know anought, but have look at this:
http://www.facebook.com/topic.php?ui...03&topic=12589
Towards the bottom, Marv, explained it to me...
There is a lot of good stuff on the different discussion threads!
It's not vital. You just want to make sure that the teeth are all relatively the same height. A couple shorter ones is no big deal. Slight variations in rake and fleam is also no big deal. The act of hand filing naturally produces some variation in rake, fleam and slope, no matter how good and steady you are. I think a little variation is good actually. In my experience, it makes for a smoother stroke. I've heard it's because there is less chance of harmonic chatter with the slight irregularities that come from hand filing; apparently this chatter can result from perfectly spaced and equally sized teeth. I don't really know how much this theory actually transmits to practicality, but I think my hand filed saws cut smoother than my previous saws.
What is important is not how perfect the teeth of a saw look. It is how the saw cuts. If the saw cuts true without binding or other problems, then the teeth can be outright ugly and it is not a concern.
FWIW, the last saw I sharpened had to have all new teeth cut. I made a few mistakes and the teeth look a little jagged in places. Last week I tried a LN 15 ppi dovetail saw. It made me like my old rehab that much more, even with its jagged teeth and rust spots on the saw plate.
jim
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)