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Thread: Painting cupboard doors

  1. #1
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    Painting cupboard doors

    Hi All,

    Not sure if this is the correct forum for this, but I posted the following in the Off topic" forum but it seems more appropriate here.

    The house is lined with paneling and it is time for the kitchen and the cabinets to get a splash of paint.

    I'd like some suggestions on how to handle the cupboard doors. They were installed in 1978 and the hinges are colored gold and the door panels grooved to match the paneling. I'd like to go for a beige color that will not look too out of place with the gold hinges.

    Replacing doors would mean new hinges and I do not want to go to that expense or effort in fitting new hinges. There are 26 doors and thus, 52 hinges counting the cupboards in the bathrooms as well.

    I have spray painting equipment so painting the doors outside is high on the list of options.

    Here's what I have to work with and the first pic is the real color of the doors and frames. The flash lightened the other pics.

    Thanks for any help.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Dave J
    Forums: Where all too often, logic is the first casualty.

  2. #2
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    Make sure you don't use latex paint.

    Cleaning the 30+ year old kitchen cabinets is going to be the biggest challenge. Dirt, grease, grime and in general kitchen cabinets tend to have an amazing amount of "stuff" on them.

    SILICONE furniture polish products being one of the biggest problems. CLean then with soap and water, then Tri Sodium Phospahate (TSP) and water, then you will need a liquid sand paper.

    Clean rags and lots of elbow grease are required.

    Now a pigment primer like Zinsser B-I-N or the primer recommended by the paint maker.

    Pick a paint that is recommended BY THE MANUFACTURER for kitchen cabinets. Do not take the advice from at the big box store's salesperson.

    An "approved for kitchen cabinets" paint will say so on the can.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  3. #3
    One quick note is to look at how they fit before you take them apart,that is notice if any of the doors need to be adjusted. At times with dark cabs you won't notice any tweaks. Number the hinges before you take them apart. Lastly have you considered doing a glaze on top of the finish paint? That style of door really sets the tone for an antiqued look.
    Last edited by Jamie Schmitz; 02-28-2010 at 1:09 AM.

  4. #4
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    Thanks Jamie and Scott.

    @Scott: I was not aware there was a paint specifically for kitchens. Glad I asked here. I could take the doors outside and use paint stripper. Would that be a better idea?

    Because of the molding shapes on the doors they will be a pain to clean and prep but the cupboard frames are pretty straight forward and should come clean with the method you suggested Scott.

    @Jamie: The door hinges do not appear to be adjustable so I think I am stuck with the way they are.

    Could you please elaborate a little on the glaze. I did wonder whether I could spray them with a semi-translucent oil based finish so that the wood grain still showed through, but the color was then much lighter. Is that what you meant by "glaze?"

    Thanks so far for the help.
    Dave J
    Forums: Where all too often, logic is the first casualty.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Johnson29 View Post
    Thanks Jamie and Scott.

    @Scott: I was not aware there was a paint specifically for kitchens. Glad I asked here. I could take the doors outside and use paint stripper. Would that be a better idea?

    Because of the molding shapes on the doors they will be a pain to clean and prep but the cupboard frames are pretty straight forward and should come clean with the method you suggested Scott.

    @Jamie: The door hinges do not appear to be adjustable so I think I am stuck with the way they are.

    Could you please elaborate a little on the glaze. I did wonder whether I could spray them with a semi-translucent oil based finish so that the wood grain still showed through, but the color was then much lighter. Is that what you meant by "glaze?"

    Thanks so far for the help.
    Dave,
    You don't want to start sripping the doors. First, number your doors. Clean them with cotton rags and mineral spirits (paint thinner) Sand them with 220 grit. Hey, this is a lot of work, so don't think you'll have these done in a day or two. If you are painting them, as that's what you said, you need the Bin primer. I think they make a water base procuct, but the pigmented shellac is what I spray. It kills the dark stain and provides an excellent primer for alkyd or water base paints. When spraying pigmented shellac, thin with denatured alcohol 50% and strain through nylon stocking. You'll most likely need to use an acrylic caulk around the inside door frames, or any where wood meets wood. Wipe it clean then prime the doors. You'll probably need to spray the doors twice, mabe three times. 220 between coats, alcohol base primer dries fast, read directions. As with all paint products, vist a professional paint store. Kithchen paint? I still like Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo. You have spraying equipment? HVLP or siphon gun on the primer, airless with a FF tip on the doors. Use 1/4" plywood, masonite strips, 4"x4" with four brads driven through each corner. Spray your doors and flip them over on the brads to spray the other side. You can brush the cabinets. Don't worry about the grain, it'll show through.
    Phil in Big D
    The only difference between a taxidermist and the taxman, is that the taxidermist leaves the skin. Mark Twain

  6. #6
    Not a great video but this will show how easy it is. From here watch the other videos if it interests you. I agree also with the BM oil base Satin Impervo, it is some of the bast oil paint for the $. A glaze is a mixture of turpentine and artist oils.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVuQKAHkEnE

  7. #7
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    I would not strip the doors unless it really needed it.
    First, I would use really soaking rags of mineral spirits and wash them clean.
    Then you can get really good de-waxers/cleaners from Wood Finishers Depot and I'm sure Mohawk also sells an equivalent. After the dewaxing and cleaning, use a vinyl sealer and top coat with a Pre-Cat lacquer in any color you want from Sherwin Williams or Wood Finishers Depot.
    Pre-Cat is easy to apply, very fast to dry (minutes - not hours) and very durable.
    Retired, living and cruising full-time on my boat.
    Currently on the Little Tennessee River near Knoxville

  8. #8
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    Hi Guys,

    Thanks for the continuing stream of options.

    @Jamie: Thanks for the video link and there were some other videos to watch that went into a lot more detail. Now that I understand glazing I think I will pass on that one. Way too much work.

    @Phil: Thanks for the tips using the brads, great idea. I will also check out the shellac.

    @Tony: I am not sure what the Pre-Cat is but will do some online research.

    I also am contemplating the option of making cover panels for the doors and hide all the molding style and grooves from the faux paneling look. The molding sections will needs some serious sanding as the exposed end grains are all raised and very prickly. I may even try pressure sand blasting them. Can anyone tell I am a metalworker and not a woodworker?

    I am thinking 1/8" MDF and making a router cutter that matches the door edge and then blending that into the MDF panel. That way all I have to worry about painting over the dark color will be the edge and back of the doors.

    Keep those ideas and suggestion rolling. I am not about to start work until I decide on the best but most simple approach.
    Dave J
    Forums: Where all too often, logic is the first casualty.

  9. #9
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    [QUOTE=Dave Johnson29;1358787]Hi Guys,
    \

    I also am contemplating the option of making cover panels for the doors and hide all the molding style and grooves from the faux paneling look. The molding sections will needs some serious sanding as the exposed end grains are all raised and very prickly. I may even try pressure sand blasting them. Can anyone tell I am a metalworker and not a woodworker?

    I am thinking 1/8" MDF and making a router cutter that matches the door edge and then blending that into the MDF panel.

    Dave, that's the first thing I'd do, float/cover the panel. I think the easiest, and it's mostly time consuming, would be to float with joint compound, (drywall mud), the panels. You fill the "dado" with a broad knife and mud. You'll need at least two passes, and then float the entire panel, sanding 220 between coats and finish. When you're finished, you prime the same as raw wood. If you put an overlay on the door made from MDF, you'd still need to float the raw panel with mud. You trowel on the mud and scrape the excess off with the trowel, broad knife. It fills the pores and paints beautifully. You also would need to fill the edges weather they are made from plywood or MDF. Good luck.
    Phil in Big D
    The only difference between a taxidermist and the taxman, is that the taxidermist leaves the skin. Mark Twain

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