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Thread: V-Groove Pine Walls and attaching to studs

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Southcoast of Ma.
    Posts
    52

    V-Groove Pine Walls and attaching to studs

    I recently came into a bunch of 8" V-groove pine boards that I'm going to be putting up in my shop. The walls are typical framed wall construction 2 x 4 16" on center. My plan was to run the pine boards horizontally and nail to the studs, my question is what size finish nailer should I use?

    I have read on here and other boards that with an 8" wide board I should face nail as just nailing it on v-groove may not have enough holding power. So I was thinking a 15 Gauge or 16 Gauge finish nailer, can anyone offer any advice?

    Thanks,
    Dave

  2. #2
    15 gauge and blind nailing (through the tounge) would be the best.

    Mark

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Southcoast of Ma.
    Posts
    52
    Any recommedation on which 15ga? I was looking at one of the Hitachi's NT65MA2.

  4. #4
    I know you didn't ask, but I'd consider all the dust-catches a horizontal alignment will create.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio
    Posts
    501
    If you can afford the loss of another 3/4" you could add few furring strips horizontally so you can hang the tongue and groove vertically. As for nailing them, I would blind nail them with 15g nails. If it was a floor in a non environmentally controlled space I may consider face nailing to prevent squeaks, but for a wall I would do the blind nail first, if it moves a lot you can always face nail later. Another option is to use construction adhesive on the back side of each plank before installing, then blind nail.

    I have never used the any Hitachi air tools. I have used Senco, Porter Cable, and Bostich guns, all would be good first guns if you find them at a good price.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Southcoast of Ma.
    Posts
    52
    Thomas - Good point about the dust I never thought of that. Maybe vertical is the way to go.

    Andrew - Makes sense start with the blind nails and add the face nails if needed. Using something like liquid nails and blind nailing should really get the job done.

    Thanks for the suggestions - Looks like I might re-think how I lay out the boards.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Lake George NY
    Posts
    157
    Did my entire basement with T & G pine. Found a 16 ga nailer
    would split the tongue quite often. Also it had to be just low
    enough to fit next board,quite often it was visable.I switched to
    a 18 ga brad nailer. The boards are rock solid.It also doesnt split
    tongue and allows you to nail higher on the tongue with no
    issues seating the next board. I only face nailed in corners where
    you could cover it with the meeting corner board. This was done
    years ago & I've had no problems.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Southcoast of Ma.
    Posts
    52
    Rick - Did you install them vertically or horizontally?

  9. #9
    I have pretty fair size shop in my basement. I put the 8 in tongue and groove siding in as you described. I can't recall the guage I used but the point I would highly suggest is to do it vertically. Mine was done horizontally and there is no undoing anything. I found that I did not put some 220 outlets exactly where I wanted. I had made the adjustment by putting the outlet in the ceiling for my cyclone so I could move the lathe and use the old cyclone outlet. If I had done the siding vertically, I could have removed one board and replaced it with a new board by cutting off the backside of the groove and face nailing. Not a real elegant solution but at least an option. I should also comment that I have my walls insulated so I could not cut a hole and fish the wire down.
    good luck with the shop.
    pat

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Northern Illinois
    Posts
    739
    Something to consider is what you plan on hanging from the T&G boards unless you plan on hitting the studs with anything heavy. In my shop I used 7/16 beadboard as the wall surface. The beadboard is screwed into the studs with 1 5/8 screws every 12 inches.

    This configuration is strong enough that I can hang almost anything I want right on the surface without having to hit the stud.
    Wood'N'Scout

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