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Thread: TS dust pipe drops ??

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    central PA
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    TS dust pipe drops ??

    My TS is kind-of in the middle of the room. G0691 with right hand dust port.
    My question is how much clearance should I have from the blade/ table (right of, left of, etc.) for the DC drop? I can try to supply a pic if needed. The cyclone is in the left corner of the shop and the saw port is on the right of the saw. I can either:
    1. drop to the left of the saw and run behind with duct
    2. drop to the right either A. far away and run along floor, or
    B. closer and connect nearer the right ext table

    I need to know how much room I need to allow all cuts without the duct being in the way. If I drop on the left side I need to come down between the two garage door tracks, If I drop on the right side I need to probably step over the duct occassionally, or keep it close to the table end. Sorry if this info is elsewhere; I didn't research much.

    I purchased the G0440 cyclone over a year ago and still have not use it yet. I needed to get more organized and figure out where my tools will be best located and of course things keep changing. Still not "set in stone" but I'd prefer to leave the TS where it is.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Saint Louis, Missouri, USA
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    An interesting question and the answer is it depends on what you use the TS for.

    I work with a lot of sheet goods. The farthest I can get the fence from the blade is about 36 inches to the right. So if I were to drop the duct on the right of the saw blade I would want it at least 40 inches from the blade.

    I could possible want to cross cut a 6 inch by 48 inch strip of plywood I would want at least 8 feet to the left of the blade.

    If you have the TS on a mobile base, then ducting becomes more of a problem.

    If I could I would run the ducting under the floor and have no obstructions blocking wood movement for any tool

    Just my 2 cents worth.

    --Jesse

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    central PA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse Tutterrow View Post
    An interesting question and the answer is it depends on what you use the TS for.

    I work with a lot of sheet goods. The farthest I can get the fence from the blade is about 36 inches to the right. So if I were to drop the duct on the right of the saw blade I would want it at least 40 inches from the blade.

    I could possible want to cross cut a 6 inch by 48 inch strip of plywood I would want at least 8 feet to the left of the blade.

    If you have the TS on a mobile base, then ducting becomes more of a problem.

    If I could I would run the ducting under the floor and have no obstructions blocking wood movement for any tool

    Just my 2 cents worth.

    --Jesse
    Under the floor is not an option.

    The TS IS on a mobile base but for emergency more than convenience. I don't intend on moving it much, if at all. After reading your comment about ripping, I guess there wouldn't be much reason for dropping the piping much beyond the right-most position of the rip fence (about 50+" on the G0691), unless one wanted to use the mitre gauge/sled to cut something longer than that dimension. I wouldn't rip a 6x48 pc as you suggest, on the left of the blade. However, if I wanted a pc. like you indicated, the drop would have to be about 8 ft' to the right of the blade.
    I'm looking for folks' real world experiences and asking what they would do. How much is your current drop in the way (or not), and would you do something different?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    West of Ft. Worth, TX
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    Rick, the way I have had my drop on the contractor saw is off the right rear corner of the extension table, about 3" away. This allowed me the ability to rip or crosscut sheet goods since I had about 49" to the right of the blade. If I needed more than that, then the keeper board would be to the left of the blade, and the off cut to the right. It allows me to do any cut I need with sheet goods. I had enough room from the back of the blade to the front of the duct to cross cut 2 X 8 material without the duct interfering.
    Now, with my G0691, it will end up about the same place on the saw, although it had to be repositioned to the right a little ways because of the slight change in saw position. My contractor saw will be perpendicular to the 691, and off the right side of it's extension table. So the duct will be in front of the left side of the saw. Since I only plan to us it for dado work, this won't interfere too much. If I have a dado that just won't work, then I'll move the blade to the 691 for that cut. Won't be often. But this has made me think about if I move the rails to the right, did I reposition my duct far enough away that it won't be in the way? Hmmmmm. Might need to go look at that. Jim.

    ps: Just went and measured...I'll have plenty of room, even if I move the rails the full 14" to the right. There is about 23" from the front of the contractor saw to the closest edge of the pipe, so even that isn't real tight. Glad you made me question it though. I would have been all kinds of ticked at myself if the pipe would have been a problem!
    Last edited by Jim O'Dell; 03-03-2010 at 10:12 PM. Reason: added ps
    Coolmeadow Setters...Exclusively Irish! When Irish Eyes are smiling....They're usually up to something!!
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    No, I'm not an electrician. Any information I share is purely what I would do myself. If in doubt, hire an electrician!
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  5. #5
    Just right of the fence/extension table is plenty good. I couldn't imagine that you would be cutting something longer than that using your miter gauge. I mounted the TS drop right to the upright on my blade guard.

    t

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  6. #6

    not to hijack the thread

    I have a question that pertains to this. I'm setting up permanent piping also so I had the same question. And I decided to put the piping on the front right.
    But, it raises another question, what about the saws position in the shop, now mine is like Terry's in the middle, would it be safe to put the right side tight to a wall? So the DC drop would come right down the wall and into the saw. I haven't had any cuts that I couldn't do if it were like that, but I know I haven't done a whole lot yet either. I have a Uni with a 52" Beis. If I moved my saw tight to the wall I would have much more assembly room.

    If you think I should start a seperate post I will, I don't want to take away from the OP's question.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Rob, I've seen pictures of several people that do just that. I have on occasion had the need to cross cut 12' long 2X material on the TS, and couldn't do it if I was tight to the wall. But that is what miter saws are for. If it works best for you, I'd do it! Jim.
    Coolmeadow Setters...Exclusively Irish! When Irish Eyes are smiling....They're usually up to something!!
    Home of Irish Setter Rescue of North Texas.
    No, I'm not an electrician. Any information I share is purely what I would do myself. If in doubt, hire an electrician!
    Member of the G0691 fan club!
    At a minimum, I'm Pentatoxic...Most likely I'm a Pentaholic. There seems to be no known cure. Pentatonix, winners of The Sing Off, s3.

  8. #8
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    Like Terry's positioning, my overarm guard mast is just a bit farther right than the right edge of my fence when it is in its farthest usable position. As you have found, there is no right answer here except for your own. Like ceiling mounted overarm guards; some folks can have the hood a foot or so off the table and do fine. I need mine completely out of the way and so mount to the floor and use a swing-arm assembly.

    What may not be in my way may be in yours. A safe bet is to run a temporary bit of hose across the ground and go to work for a few weeks. Take note of times when you need a lot of reach and see where your riser can stand and not interfere. You may be surprised.
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    Rick, I, too have my TS in the middle of the room. Mine is a R-tilt Uni with the 52" rail to the right of the blade. Left of the blade is just the extension wing. My duct work goes up to the left of the TS, about 36" from the blade. So, I have 36" to the left of the blade (18" of cast iron, 18" of air), and my long extension to the right of the saw with 4 feet or so of air.

    I have my Uni on a mobile base. Even though it stays in one place, sometimes I need to move it out of the way of something coming in or going out of the shop, or to compensate some material I'm cutting. So, I have to have some flex hose for mobility.

    BTW, just for a visual, my middle of the room set up consists of: TS, Planer, Jointer, DC, Seperator.

    Standing in front of my TS (as if you are about to use it), the Seperator is directly to the left, and the DC is just beyond that (9 o'clock). The Planer is at 8 o'clock and the Jointer at 10 o'clock. A board exiting the Planer would hit me on the left hip (if I were standing in front of the TS). A board exiting the jointer would pass in front of the outfeed area of the TS. With the DC right in the middle, you have very short runs to all three major machines in the shop.

    You might wonder why I have a pipe going up 3 feet to the right of my TS blade when the DC is right there. Well, that is what feeds dust collection to the rest of the shop.
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