If the boards are more or less flat prior to planing, they can come out flat, barring post-planing wood movement. I bought some wide, resawn Old Pine from Mountain Lumber years ago and it didn't need any prep before planing; beautiful stuff.
However, that's the ideal; the real world often presents us with less perfect raw material.
I have to agree Frank, but I still have plenty of reservation though. I got a chance today to use the helper board on the 6 in face I jointed. I think the next time I do it I'll get some of that stairway tread (sand paper stuff) and use it to hold the the 2 boards still. BTW that was the cats meow for slightly large boards. I think someone called a limitation of around 8 inches makes sense to me with the over hang.
Last edited by David Nelson1; 04-18-2010 at 5:07 PM.
Tom,
I suggest you purchase your material elsewhere.
Interesting.... and if you build something and leave it in the shop??...even lumber in your own shop with start to warp over time.
Last edited by Mike Harrison; 04-21-2010 at 7:06 AM.
Mike Harrison
Mike, I'm with Tom on this one...
I do buy s4s lumber on occasion - and more times than not it's good to go and doesn't require acclimatizing. Specifically, if I need a few pieces of 3/4" red oak, maple, or poplar, the BORG stuff tends to work well off the rack.
But with thicker and wider stock, it often does move once in the shop. In fact, it can move after machining. It's not just a function of moisture but also of interior tensions in the wood that are released during machining.
It's almost never an issue after assembly, because you have glue and mechanical fasteners and other pieces of wood to hold things in place.
Sorry for the typo in my description. This graphic might help those who were struggling with trying to visualize it.
Got it. I tried it the other day worked great.