automatic DC turn-on for 20amp circuit?

[Michael MacDonald]

I have seen a few outlet adapters that turn on the DC automatically when the TS (or your tool of choice) is turned on. The adapters also provide an extra few sections of power to the DC. Clever.

e.g. http://www.garrettwade.com/product.a...031001&lm=wade


What I haven't found is an adapter that claims to support a 20amp circuit. Has anyone ever seen that in the general marketplace? Now that would be a turn-on for me... he he.

Regards,
Michael

[Peter Koutsovitis]

I have this one:

http://www.woodline.com/p-2358-power...ol-switch.aspx

I picked one up at a woodworking show in the Chicago area a few months back for $20. Works great, although it only supports one tool plus DC.

[Van Huskey]

I have this one:

http://www.woodline.com/p-2358-power...ol-switch.aspx

I picked one up at a woodworking show in the Chicago area a few months back for $20. Works great, although it only supports one tool plus DC.

Not being able to see a picture on that site do not know but my guess (based on price) it is supports 20 amps of the tool AND vac combined. The one in the OPs post supports up to 15 amps for the vac and a seperate 15 amps for the tool, assuming both power cords are connected to different 15 or greater circuits. I have not seen one that supporst more than the combined 30 amps like the one the OP mentioned. I think they are designed more for shop vacs than 120V DCs.

[Van Huskey]

The best way to switch a DC is to build a current sensor using a TCSHAA from SSAC.com and a relay (Grainger 3A355) with an overide switch into a box. Run all your tool circuits through the sensor and every time you turn on your machines the DC will start. Cost about 50 bucks and requires a little electrical knowledge.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/Works...F.aspx?id=2658

It was in issue 143 and is in their book "Small Woodworking Shops", unfortunately the link requires an online subscription.

[Michael MacDonald]

I have this one:

http://www.woodline.com/p-2358-power...ol-switch.aspx

I picked one up at a woodworking show in the Chicago area a few months back for $20. Works great, although it only supports one tool plus DC.

Thanks... I will give that one a try unless another suggestion pops up with a nicer picture.

I don't know if it matters about separate vs. combined 20 amps. Not sure how it works... my DC is a small HF unit (about $99 bucks) and sits under the saw. The only reason I went to a 20 amp circuit is because my TS would trip the 15 amp breaker every other time I turned it on. (I had to run over, flip the breaker, and when I returned I was able to turn on the TS... weird.) So in the end, they both run on a single 20amp circuit anyway. But I didn't want to melt a 15-amp device and burn down my house. y'know.

auto turn on is definitely worth $24.

[glenn bradley]

A remote works for me. I can turn on the DC from wherever I am. Especially useful for when you are all set to go and realize you forgot to turn the beast on. Key fob sized remotes can hang on a belt loop.

[Michael MacDonald]

The best way to switch a DC is to build a current sensor using a TCSHAA from SSAC.com and a relay (Grainger 3A355) with an overide switch into a box. Run all your tool circuits through the sensor and every time you turn on your machines the DC will start. Cost about 50 bucks and requires a little electrical knowledge.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/Works...F.aspx?id=2658

It was in issue 143 and is in their book "Small Woodworking Shops", unfortunately the link requires an online subscription.

Well, I have the main ingredient for that... little electrical knowledge. I was able to run the 12 gauge wire to my panel without killing myself, at least.

I do move the DC from tool to tool (so your suggestion would be more convenient), but it is a direct connect thing... I don't have budget or space for permanent ductwork. I will keep it in mind, though. thanks...

Out of curiosity, if one had three different circuits for tools, where would one install the sensor? (maybe I don't know enough about this to ask a smart question, though...)

[Van Huskey]

Thanks... I will give that one a try unless another suggestion pops up with a nicer picture.

I don't know if it matters about separate vs. combined 20 amps. Not sure how it works... my DC is a small HF unit (about $99 bucks) and sits under the saw. The only reason I went to a 20 amp circuit is because my TS would trip the 15 amp breaker every other time I turned it on. (I had to run over, flip the breaker, and when I returned I was able to turn on the TS... weird.) So in the end, they both run on a single 20amp circuit anyway. But I didn't want to melt a 15-amp device and burn down my house. y'know.

auto turn on is definitely worth $24.

Ahh OK you just need 20 total not 30 like the one you posted provides. There are a TON of the 20 amp versions like the one Peter mentioned WC and Rockler carry them if you have one local and they are cheaper than the one you posted. The one you posted is useful when you need more than one 20 amp circuit can provide. For example a high horsepower shop vac and a "3.25 hp" router could easily overload a 20 amp breaker but with the one you posted you can plug both power cords into seperate 15+ amp breakers and run both tools fine.

[Michael MacDonald]

A remote works for me. I can turn on the DC from wherever I am. Especially useful for when you are all set to go and realize you forgot to turn the beast on. Key fob sized remotes can hang on a belt loop.

just looked it up. first thing in google was a $70 item at woodcraft... I suppose then at least it is tool independent...

[Michael MacDonald]

Ahh OK you just need 20 total not 30 like the one you posted provides. There are a TON of the 20 amp versions like the one Peter mentioned WC and Rockler carry them if you have one local and they are cheaper than the one you posted. The one you posted is useful when you need more than one 20 amp circuit can provide. For example a high horsepower shop vac and a "3.25 hp" router could easily overload a 20 amp breaker but with the one you posted you can plug both power cords into seperate 15+ amp breakers and run both tools fine.

not sure how you are getting that info... it was just the first one I saw... I went back to look and there aren't any text details with the product that I could see.

actually, I was looking for something that just plugs into my 20amp circuit, dual-outlet receptacles. now that I look at the picture in my OP, it appears that this thing is wired directly to ...? so there are two circuits to it? one to the DC and one to two different tools?

I have seen a few 15 amps.. at rockler, etc... but I didn't see that they had a 20 amp. could be I missed it.

[Michael MacDonald]

here is example... 15 amp max

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...Automator.aspx

the ivac is there too, but the 15 amp is too low... I would need 20 amp for the TS...

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/208...um-Switch.aspx

[Van Huskey]

Well, I have the main ingredient for that... little electrical knowledge. I was able to run the 12 gauge wire to my panel without killing myself, at least.

I do move the DC from tool to tool (so your suggestion would be more convenient), but it is a direct connect thing... I don't have budget or space for permanent ductwork. I will keep it in mind, though. thanks...

Out of curiosity, if one had three different circuits for tools, where would one install the sensor? (maybe I don't know enough about this to ask a smart question, though...)

I will try to explain how it works. Lets say you have 4 circuits for tools and the DC. You place the sensor beside your electrical panel or sub panel in its on box. I will discuss 230 but it will work on 110v as well. All 4 wires come into the box, then one hot leg of each of the 3 tool circuits goes through the sensor loop then on to the receptacles for the tool, no breaks in those wires. The circuit wire for the DC circuit runs from the main panel to the relay, the sensor is connected to the relay and "switches" the realy when it detects current draw from one of the tool crcuits and sends power to the DC. You also wire in a override switch so you can turn on the DC manually.

This is really designed for stationary DC systems with machines on circuits that only run machines, though you can adjust the current needed to trip the sensor, so it could be worked around.

Two other ways are via remote as Glenn mentioned and low voltage systems that turn the DC on when you open a tools blast gate.

In the end for your setup is you are moving the DC your solution will probably work best. I would mount the auto on switch onto the DC and just run one heavy extension cord to it.

[Van Huskey]

here is example... 15 amp max

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...Automator.aspx

the ivac is there too, but the 15 amp is too low... I would need 20 amp for the TS...

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/208...um-Switch.aspx

I stand corrected the ones I have seen may indeed all be 15 amp, the one the other poster mentioned would work assuming the spec is correct.

[Michael MacDonald]

In the end for your setup is you are moving the DC your solution will probably work best. I would mount the auto on switch onto the DC and just run one heavy extension cord to it.

OK. Thanks for the explanation. That makes sense now.

Since I am a small operation, I think I will go with the product that Peter mentioned. My expectation was that I plug it into the 20amp outlet that I already have for my TS and DC. One of the "add-on" receptacles is for the TS and the other receptacle is only activated if power is flowing... so that is for the DC. I can't see the picture either, but so far this is the best fit for my situation.

Thanks all.

[Michael MacDonald]

found a pic in their paper/PDF catalog... looks good. Seems to connect through a tail wire, which will work just fine. Also has two tool outlets. Consider it purchased.