Dust Collection System

[Greg Narozniak]

Ken....Welcome to the 'Creek!....If I may.......I just had a new shop built and am starting the electrical roughin this weekend. You might consider putting your new 110 outlets at a height greater than 48". Mine will be there. Then in the event that you lean a 4'x8' sheet of sheetgoods up against the wall...the outlets are still readily accessible. Again......Welcome to the 'Creek!

I agree 100% with Ken. This was a great tip that I found here. I put the outlets I added over 48” and it made life a lot easier when I added a miter saw and radial arm saw bench along that wall.

Another good Tip was the following;

I added six 20amp (12/2 Wire) 110Volt circuits with double gang outlets in each box and in a tip I picked up on one of the woodworking boards was this. I wired some of them like this, Four of the outlets that are in a straight run I made the first gang of outlets in the run from the panel GFCI outlets and then for the rest of the run all the right side outlets were on the same circuit and all the left side outlets were on the same circuit. The reason for this is so if you are working in one area you; in essence, you have 2 separate 20amp circuits available in one location. I thought it was a great idea.

As far as 220V I added four 30amp (10/3 wire) 220v outlets with 30amp twist lock plugs with each on their own breaker. One for the Oneida, One for the Unisaw, One for the Compressor (Have yet to convert it to 220volt) and one for a Jointer in the future.

Plan ahead and somewhere I read that Outlets are like clamps and you can never have too many.

[Steve Cox]

Another way to handle the 110 outlets (what I did) was to alternate ckts on each one around the room. Used more wire but if I have something that takes lots of juice, I know that the outlet on either side is on a different ckt if I need to plug something else in.

[Frank Pellow]

Another way to handle the 110 outlets (what I did) was to alternate ckts on each one around the room. Used more wire but if I have something that takes lots of juice, I know that the outlet on either side is on a different ckt if I need to plug something else in.

I did the same thing.

[Ken Kirkeby]

I was planning on putting any new outlets at about 48" as suggested by someone and I'm putting them everywhere (both 220v & 115v). Also, when the new lighting is put in, I want some outlets on the ceiling. I put 2 - 8ft flouresent (dual) fixtures in but I'm going to need more.

BTW, the garage in completly finished with 9' foot ceilings.

Wanna hear something funny? When I moved in, this 38 x 27 garage had TWO 60w bulbs lighting the place. No joke.

Pics to follow on my progress ...

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Ken.....

My 110 wall outlets are on 4 different circuits. No two consecutive oulets are on the same circuit.

I am also putting 110 outlets (a 5th 110 circuit) in the ceiling and.....on my lighting cicuits I'm putting an additional 9 (switch controlled)outlets for future lighting needs. I envision that I'll want to move benches etc.....as experience demands.

My 220 outlets (8 total) will be on separate 30 amp circuits. I started with a Square D "QO" box....space for 30 breakers.....I'll have two empty spaces when it's all wired.

Of course, I am working with uncovered walls right now and now is the time to do it! I'm also adding a capped 1" conduit coming out of the breaker box. The conduit will go up into the attic where it will extend above the insulation and be capped. If in the future I need to expand or add a circuit..."the way" is already there.

Good luck with your electrical! Working with a finished room is a lot harder than "new, uncovered" walls!

[Steve Cox]

My shop (garage) is completely finished with insulation in the walls but not in the attic (go figure). This being the case I installed all the outlets surface mounted and used MC cable (flexible conduit with conductors installed) to get the wiring up into the attic where I used J-boxes to connect to romex going back to the panel. That way the only drywall I had to remove was where the panels were. I installed a new panel right next to the old one and used the sub to run all my outlets. I put my lights, heater, air filter, and door opener in the old panel. When I leave the shop I turn off the sub, lock the panel and no one can run any power tools but lights etc still work. I have little kids in the house and I wanted some safety built in for when they are older. Just a consideration.

[Scott Behrens]

Hey guys, I read through that old thread on dust collection and I have to say it is great. I plan to build a systme here in the next year or so and I can tell that thread will be essential material. Just wondered if you know how long it will be kept around? Maybe I should print it so I am sure to have it when I get around to building a cyclone. Anyway, just wanted to say thanks for all the great info you guys have on here.

Scott

[Jay Albrandt]

Ken,

What I did.....

As far as the dust collection, go with a cyclone. Nothing else compares and for that much space, plan for a unit that has a 3 hp rated motor and 14" impeller. Use 6 inch pvc duct as far as possible, and modify the tools for 6" flex hose connections. Use 4" flex hose only when the tool is not a large dust maker. I built Bill Pentz's designed cyclone. I bought the kit through Clark Echols. It was fun and easy, but it did take some time. They now have fully fabricated models for sale, but I understand they are on back order.

As far as electrical, wire a sub panel for easy access. Consider 2 - 15 amp circuits for lighting and your door opener, 2 - 110v 12 guage wall circuits at least 40 inches off the ground, 2 - 220v, 20 amp 12 guage circuits, and at least one 220v 30 amp 10 guage circuit. Put the cyclone on it's own 20 amp circuit, and that leaves you another 20 amper which is plenty for a one man shop (you can only use one tool at a time). The 20 and 30 amp circuits will allow you to grow into your shop with all the 2 and 3 hp tools you want. Put all your wiring in conduit so as your shop grows and tools change, you can simply move things around.

Good Luck

[markus shaffer]

Ken,

I also recommend a cyclone. I went with a 2hp commercial Oneida. It keeps up with whatever I throw at it.. I have a 20" planer and often run boards 15" and wider through it.. The cyclone can handle it no problem.. I even leave the 2 blast gates (5" and 3") to my tablesaw open all the time.. I had Oneida do the ductwork design as well. They did an excellent job and were very knowledgable.. If you go with the Oneida, and your ceiling height permits, get the wye that splits at the bottom of the cone so that you can have 2 barrels. I barely have room for their small collection barrel and I can fill it 3-4 times a day if I'm running a lot of wood through the planer.


-Markus