Reclaimed Saal Wood Table Finish

[Jason Merck]

I bought a table that is reportedly unfinished reclaimed Saal wood. The place I bought it from recommended a few coats of tung oil followed by a beeswax finish. Does anyone have any other recommendations for this? It will be used a formal dining room table (which translate to not much use).

Thanks

[Scott Holmes]

Tung oil (100% pure) by itself or with beeswax is a very poor choice.

[Jason Merck]

Tung oil (100% pure) by itself or with beeswax is a very poor choice.

Well, that is kind of why I was asking the question of would anyone have another recommendation as to how to finish the table. What would be a better choice? My finishing experience is very limited - I'm new to this game, but the tung oil & beeswax did not sound like the best choice to me either. Yes I'm reading & doing research on it, but I thought I would also try to get opinions from here since there seems to be a lot of people that are very knowledgeable on the subject. I think I need to rephrase my original question - does anyone have a better suggestion than tung oil & beeswax as a finish for a dining room table.

Thanks

[Brian Hinther]

Waterlox or Behlen Rock Hard varnish are the two toughest finishes you could apply.

[Scott Holmes]

Brian,

"Waterlox or Behlen Rock Hard varnish are the two toughest finishes you could apply"

Technically poly is tougher; but tough is for floors.

Both Waterlox and Behlens are phenolic resin varnishes and both are very hard finishes and tables do need hard, not tough. Either will be a great choice.

[Jason Merck]

Thanks guys, that is exactly what I was looking for. After reading up on them, it seems either would be a good choice. Now to figure out which one to go with. I've read a few different tips on application, some seem to prefer a foam brush, others a high quality bristle brush, and others a lambskin applicator. Have ya'll found a particular way of applying it to be better? Also, with the Waterlox would ya'll recommend a couple of base coats with the Original Sealer/Finish before the top coat of the high gloss like their website says? I've read where some have just gone straight to the high gloss...

I also really like the idea of the high gloss finish. If we find we don't like it after the month or so of curing we can sand it down to get the sheen that we want.

Again, thanks a lot guys.

[Neal Clayton]

the high gloss will work, but it's more expensive (as is the satin). no need to use the expensive stuff for the seal coats, use the cheaper option for that.

it's really hard to mess up brushing it on, it's slow drying and levels very well. don't use a cheapo foam brush, though, i honestly don't know what those are good for other than bubbles. use a natural bristle oil paint brush, at least.

note that those varnishes will take quite awhile to cure. a day to dry to the touch, a couple before i'd move the table, and two or three weeks to stop giving off fumes, depending on the weather. so plan on where you're going to finish it too.

[Jason Merck]

the high gloss will work, but it's more expensive (as is the satin). no need to use the expensive stuff for the seal coats, use the cheaper option for that.

it's really hard to mess up brushing it on, it's slow drying and levels very well. don't use a cheapo foam brush, though, i honestly don't know what those are good for other than bubbles. use a natural bristle oil paint brush, at least.

note that those varnishes will take quite awhile to cure. a day to dry to the touch, a couple before i'd move the table, and two or three weeks to stop giving off fumes, depending on the weather. so plan on where you're going to finish it too.

Thanks for the tips Neal. I plan on finishing it in my garage, and then a couple of days after the last coat move it inside. Is that too soon to move it in if it is still giving off fumes for a couple of weeks? Would really like to not have the table taking up garage space for a few weeks, but if that is necessary I guess it will have to.

Thanks

[Neal Clayton]

you can, but it will smell for awhile. depends on how bad the smell bothers you .

[Jason Merck]

you can, but it will smell for awhile. depends on how bad the smell bothers you .

Understood. Fortunately for me I can't smell a thing, but unfortunately my girlfriend apparently has one the most highly developed senses of smell on the planet. So roughly translated I'm going to move the table in too early and catch grief about it for a couple of weeks. Oh well, small price to pay to get that thing out of the garage sooner, at least my car will be happy back in the garage.

Thanks

[Jim Becker]

Tung oil (100% pure) by itself or with beeswax is a very poor choice.

That's a very subjective thing...depending on what is most important to the OP.

100% Tung Oil properly applied and allowed to cure (or BLO for that matter which is much cheaper and cures much faster) can provide a wonderful look and luster. It may not be the best choice for a kitchen table that gets used a lot, but for a formal dining room where most of the use is for "the look" and with care taken when actual dining is in progress with a good pad, etc., it could very well be just fine. (I mentioned in another thread that my wife's cherry desk that I made in 1998 was finished in oil/wax and it looks nearly new in most respects...and gets heavy use)

That said, a similar look could be had with something akin to an oil/varnish mixture wiped on in thin coats. This would typically be 1/3-1/3-1/3 BLO, oil-based varnish and mineral spirits with the idea of not building a visible film, but adding some luster while sealing the wood better than a pure oil will do.

Keep in mind that this particular Asian wood species is very hard and durable by itself...it's often used for railroad ties, for example. It is likely that any finish is more for decorative need, rather than for "protection".

[Scott Holmes]

As for the Waterlox Original being more expensive than the Sealer.

IT is actually CHEAPER than the the Sealer.

The sealer is nothing more than the Original finish mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits. So the price of the "Original" plus $3 worth of mineral spirits and you have 2 quarts of sealer.