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Thread: Best 10" table saw blades

  1. #46
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Doylestown, Pa
    Posts
    20
    I have a a Forest WW II 40 tooth on a Powermatic 66 since 1990. It has been sharpened 3 times a great blade in my IMO. I also have the Forrest Dado set. None compare to it, but than again it was almost 300 dollars 20 years. ago. Have both Forrest chopaws blades on a 10 and 12 inch saw and a 12 inch blade on a DeWalt 7790 RAS. I love all of them. Freud makes an excellent product but if I could only pick one blade it would be a Forrest. My friend who is a professional woodworker in Vail, Colorado used to use Freud blades until I turned him on to Forrest. He now has the Forrest blades on of of his eqiupment including a $40,000- Altendorf and $20,000 Martin sliding table saw. He claims in his view there is no comparison.

  2. #47
    Quote Originally Posted by Callan Campbell View Post
    Okayyyy, you opened the door on THAT one. What the heck happened to you that the SS brake system was triggered twice. PS< we all hope you're totally OK and have all fingers intact

    Wasn't my fault -was stupid mitre gauge's fault!
    Couldn't even find the spot where the blade hit the gauge.

  3. #48
    I have the Tenru Gold Medal and it makes extremly smooth cuts although it will burn the wood if you stop during the cut.

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Marysville, WA
    Posts
    218
    I guess if you really don't like changing blades, you could always buy more saws, each with their own blade!

    Well, that's what the crazy router people do, right?

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Tryon, NC
    Posts
    32
    No one ever use an Amana blade! I had a picture frame cutting machine and it was a great cut! I think it was 100 teeth carbide!

  6. #51
    +1 for Forrest. Use a 10" on my SS Mark 5 Power Pro and the chopmaster on my Bosch 10" radial slider. I occasionally use a Freud thin kerf glueline for a lot of hardwood ripping but Forrest stays on the saw 99% of the time. Cosscuts, rips, vineer ply, etc.

    Jack

    Quote Originally Posted by Kent A Bathurst View Post
    I've got 2 of them. One on the saw when the other is out for sharpening. Also have the WWII 30t for stuff like 8/4 HM, and the 80t ATB for fine-quality panels, but the WWII 40t is on the saw most of the time. $92 is an excellent price. They are excellent blades - you cannot go wrong. I cannot compare them to others, because the WWII was my first blade, and I have never had any reason to try a different brand.

    Oh yeah - and their dado set, and 2 @ 12" chopmaster for the CMS. I like to have sharp blades

    EDIT: Just noticed your location. Taj Mahal: "She caught the Katy, and left me a mule to ride............"

  7. #52
    Quote Originally Posted by Jaze Derr View Post
    I guess if you really don't like changing blades, you could always buy more saws, each with their own blade!

    Well, that's what the crazy router people do, right?

    Old post I know, but that's what I do.
    Way easier.

    I don't change router bits either.

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    3,739
    The only thing we are going to get out of a old post like this is how much blades have gone up in price.
    Other then that it's just another p---ing contest!

    Aj

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Suwanee, GA
    Posts
    297
    I also have the Forrest WW II 40T combo blade. I love it. I've been using it about a year and it hasn't shown any sign of needing to be sharpened yet.

    I just ordered a square-grind and dove-tail grind blade from Ridge Carbide. They had a booth at a local show recently, and I was impressed with what I saw. I'll give a review after a few months of use.
    Blood, sweat, and sawdust

  10. #55
    It's old but I'm bored this evening so I read through it. I'm surprised nobody mentioned the hp of the saw. My little Ryobi 3100 has a 15A universal motor. It will rip 3.5 inches deep in hardwood but not with a general purpose blade. I pretty much have to use a 24 tooth ripping blade for deep rips. I suspect a saw with a 5 hp motor would be able to manage deeper rips with a combination blade. I like 50 tooth general purpose blades with 40 of the teeth ATB and 10 flat topped rippers. I have them by Freud and DeWalt and both work well for most tasks. I have some all ATB blades but I think of them as more for crosscut applications which I normally don't do on the table saw.

    I also prefer full kerf blades despite my saws limited power. I do not find that thin kerf blades cut with less power input. To me the important variables for getting by with limited horsepower are having a sharp clean blade and matching the blade to what you are doing. My 50 tooth blades stay on the saw most of the time but the Freud ripper is important. I don't do much sheet good work on the table saw after getting a track saw or I might want a higher tooth count ATB grind for that. If you want a really clean cut, I think it is best to use a freshly sharpened or new blade.

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