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Thread: TS Blade/Fence/Miter Alignment Tools

  1. #1

    TS Blade/Fence/Miter Alignment Tools

    Totally new to WW'ing. Got the $300 deal on the Ridgid R4511 granite TS. Need some advice on what tool(s) to buy to get it dialed in. Found quite a few tools and don't know enough to figure out which is better or maybe more importantly for me easiest to use. I don't think any of the below can check the arbor (maybe the deluxe a-line-it?).

    I've also seen some homemade fixtures utilizing a wooden sled mounted on a miter bar with a dial indicator on the end.

    A Wixey digital angle gauge (or Beall) is on the to buy list and trying to decide on a set of engineer's squares.

    TIA for the help!

    The X-Point Set Up Tool (on sale $75)
    http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11482

    TS-Aligner Jr Lite ($64 + dial indicator)
    http://www.ts-aligner.com/tsjrlite.htm

    Woodpecker Saw Gauge (on sale $80) Pinnacle also has a version
    http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/..._-_woodpeckers

    A-LINE-IT (basic kit $80 deluxe $145)
    http://www.woodcraft.com/Catalog/Pro...2-ed96eb28644f

    Oneway Multi Gage ($95)
    http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...lti-Gauge.aspx

  2. #2
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    That's a $5.00 Harbor Freight dial indicator mounted on some scrap. Works well.


  3. #3
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    Ditto ;-)

    I'm very happy with it.
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    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  4. #4
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    I'm sure the scrap idea works but being a newb myself... I feel a little more secure using a machined tool. A false sense of security I'm sure, but it is what it is.

  5. #5
    I started out with a home made one but the problem I had was it would get tight in the slot when the humidity was high and loose when it was low.

    I got a Super Bar but I just did not like the way it fit in the slot.

    I now have the Woodpecker Saw Gauge which I really like. I like the way it fits in the slot, it has to small rods that you drop in the miter slot and then a larger one that sets on top of this for a very good fit.

    You can check the arbor and set your fence with it.

    I also have a Master Plate, I like using it much better then the blade, it is just more positive to me. Once you have checked the arbor you then put on the Master Plate and set the saw with it.
    http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=6039

    On the Wixey digital angle gauge, I have one and it is a very good tool but I have found that I don't use it as much as the 8 inch Digital Protractor from Wixey.
    http://www.wixey.com/digitalprotractor/index.html

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Jonathan

    There are a lot of nice jigs and fixtures out there. Most, are an adaptation of an already established solution that is refined.
    The solutions by Glen and Joe are very simple, and can even be simplified further by replacing the dial indicator with and acorn nut and a set of automotive feeler gauges, Their way is much, much easier though.
    While a machined jig will have a high degree of accuracy and tolerance, what is more necessary is repeatability and the jig Joe displayed will be very repeatable.
    An accurate square, and a triangle, combined with the fixture Joe displayed will go a long way.
    Save your $$$ for wood.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  7. #7
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    There's really no need to spend big bucks on a fancy gadget...spend that money on a good blade instead. You can use tools like a common combo square, or this 5 cent jig using a brass screw:

    Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

  8. #8
    Really appreciate the replies.

    I'm kind of like Rob said, liking the "thought" of using something that is designed for this task. When I said I'm totally new to WW'ing I wasn't kidding. I would have to buy the wood (I've got pine 2x stuff laying around, but no hardwood) and the dial indicator. Then there's the issue of how to make the thing (cutting the slot in the part that holds the indicator). I could probably manage Mike/Scott's suggestion (screw on a stick) and may give it a go, but a little apprehensive about making such a small part on the TS, with absolutely no TS experience yet. I'm pretty limited on tools too (got the TS, a circ saw, and cordless drills no planes or chisels).

    So I'll probably end up buying something so that I can get started. I know there will be a learning curve on using the TS, and I want to make sure that I'm starting with a reasonable chance of success and having everything lined up.

    I've got one down for the Woodpecker.

    Anybody know much about the TS-Aligner (the X-Point looks like a copy)? If you read the guy's website he certainly approaches the problem and explains his solution with a fair amount of engineering and dimensional inspection thought. I'm not a machinist or dimensional inspector, but I'm around all of that stuff daily.

    Thanks again for the help. Keep the feedback coming.

  9. #9
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    I haven't read anything bad about the ts-aligner, all been good. I'd like to pickup one myself.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Hough View Post
    I haven't read anything bad about the ts-aligner, all been good. I'd like to pickup one myself.
    The tool you pick really depends on how picky you are. I started with a dial indicator on a magnetic base, upgraded to a Superbar, and then picked up a TS-Aligner Jr to use on a Robland X31 (only alignment tool specialized for that saw with its dovetail miter slot). The TS-Aligner also works fine on my G0691, bandsaw, drill press, etc. I've used it to check just about everything that could be aligned on each of my tools with a table. I expect it will be the last alignment tool I'll ever buy.

    To help you decide: here's a an online comparison of the TS-Aligner against the Superbar.

    Machining is top-notch, and the offset bar and angle attachment are definite advantages against the competition. But surprisingly enough, the feature I like the best about the TS-Aligner Jr is the plastic case. It has nothing to do with the measurement features or accuracy of the tool, but it ensured that everything stayed together without damage during two moves in one year.

    Highly recommended!

  11. #11
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    Jonathan - If you're concerned about making something small on your saw, a simple combination square can get you remarkably close too. I used to do the alignment with the square, then check with a digital caliper...now I just use the square. You can even lay a straight edge along the blade to amplify any misalignment, and measure to the straight edge instead of the blade.



    Everyone's different....getting it right and enjoying the results is what's important, not how you do it.
    Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    Looks like the miter slot/blade alignment has been covered so I will add my input on the engineer squares. A plastic drafting square is cheap and works well. If you want to get a little more fancy, I have the 5" and 7" Incra guarnteed squares.
    http://www.amazon.com/Incra-GSQR7-Gu...0309762&sr=8-1

    I also have quite a few Woodpecker measuring tools and am pleased with every one of them,
    http://www.woodpeck.com/measuringhome.html

  13. #13
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    I have the A line it deluxe and have been very happy with it.

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