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Thread: TS Blade Alignment Question @ 45*

  1. #1
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    TS Blade Alignment Question @ 45*

    I got my new table saw together and generally well lined up.
    - Fence to miter-slot +- 0.0025 (mostly variation in fence face)
    - Blade @ 90* to miter-slot +-0.001 or 0.002 overall
    - Blade @ 45* to miter-slot 0.0 at Front +0.004 at rear.

    My question is; what is a reasonable spec for the Blade @ 45*. As you can see the blade is high at the rear by 0.004 is that reasonable or too much?
    ____________________________________________
    JD at J&J WoodSmithing
    Owingsville, Kentucky

    "The best things in life are not things."

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Shimming the trunnion is a unique (but completely possible) prospect when you add the 45 degree check into it.

    You know that you twist the trunnion clock-counter clockwise to adjust the blade at 90 degrees. To make adjustments at 45 is to shim the front or back of the trunnion down. On a TS where the alignment tool is in the right slot and the top of the blade tips to the left, I believe that you shim the front down if the front is too close to the right slot and shim the rear down if the rear is too close to the right hand slot.

  3. #3
    Wow - after what that saw went through, those are pretty impressive numbers

    As Anthony said, you can start shimming, but that's a tedious, no-fun project. I'd use it like it is and see if you have any problems with it before messing with that.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by James Combs View Post
    I got my new table saw together and generally well lined up.
    - Fence to miter-slot +- 0.0025 (mostly variation in fence face)
    - Blade @ 90* to miter-slot +-0.001 or 0.002 overall
    - Blade @ 45* to miter-slot 0.0 at Front +0.004 at rear.

    My question is; what is a reasonable spec for the Blade @ 45*. As you can see the blade is high at the rear by 0.004 is that reasonable or too much?
    Personally, I wouldn't worry about .004 over the exposed length of the blade. But if you want to try to chase it out, shims between the trunnion and the table (or between the cabinet and the table on a cabinet saw) will move the blade in the direction of tilt.

    On a left tilt saw, adding shims at the front of the table will shift the front of the blade to the left (away from the right miter slot) and shimming the back will shift the back of the blade to the left.

    On a right tilt saw, adding shims at the front will shift the front of the blade toward the right miter slot and shimming the rear will shift the rear of the blade toward the right slot.
    Last edited by Tom Veatch; 04-03-2010 at 11:14 PM.
    Tom Veatch
    Wichita, KS
    USA

  5. #5
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    I'd do some test cuts at 45 and see what happens. If it doesn't meet your requirements, shim it up.

    You need alter the relationship of the top to the trunnion. On a saw with cabinet mounted trunnions the process is a little easier. On saws with the trunnion mounted to the underside of the table, it is a little trickier, but still possible.

    What saw did you get?
    Measure twice, cut three times, start over. Repeat as necessary.

  6. #6
    Could I get you to toss my old Delta off the back of your truck next?

    Nice work.

  7. #7
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    That is completely resonable, even not considering what your saw went through. I would like to see slightly better numbers BUT I would do some test cuts before I tried to do ANYTHING. No problem with the cuts and I wouldn't touch it.

  8. #8
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    Another for test cut first.. then make the call. If you can't distinquish any noticeable variance in the cut.. forget the numbers and put the saw to work.
    Sarge..

    Woodworkers' Guild of Georgia
    Laissez Les Bons Temps Rouler

  9. #9
    Check you results and then decide. I realigned mine during a shop re-org recently and it has been a real pleasure to use now. I have no idea what it was number-wise before but I got saw marks galore and now don't. I did find it much easier to do the shim deal without the fence and wings on. Once the other iron was added back on it need just tweak to make up for the load. Much easier than fighting the weight and access restrictions.
    “If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.” -- George Orwell


  10. #10
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    Adjustable Shims

    QUOTE=Anthony Whitesell;1391136]Shimming the trunnion is a unique (but completely possible) prospect when you add the 45 degree check into it...[/QUOTE]

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Friedrichs View Post
    As Anthony said, you can start shimming, ...
    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    Check you results and then decide. ...
    Quote Originally Posted by Anthony Whitesell View Post
    Shimming the trunnion is a unique (but completely possible) prospect when you add the 45 degree check into it...
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Veatch View Post
    Personally, I wouldn't worry about .004 over the exposed length of the blade...
    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Peterson View Post
    I'd do some test cuts at 45 and see what happens. If it doesn't meet your requirements, shim it up.

    What saw did you get?
    It is the G0690 or the one folks are calling the flying Grizzly

    Quote Originally Posted by John Coloccia View Post
    Could I get you to toss my old Delta off the back of your truck next?

    Nice work.
    The LOML said she would be going along on the next pickup.(to make sure I tie things down)

    Quote Originally Posted by Van Huskey View Post
    That is completely resonable, even not considering what your saw went through. I would like to see slightly better numbers BUT I would do some test cuts ...
    Quote Originally Posted by John Thompson View Post
    Another for test cut first.. then make the call. If you can't distinquish any noticeable variance in the cut.. forget the numbers and put the saw to work.
    Guys I appreciate all your input. Most of you suggested trying it out first and see how it does so that is what I will do. However if it appears that adjustment is needed I will make the adjustment but shims will not be needed. For any of you that may have a G0690 or G0691 the rear trunnion has two adjustments for height of the rear trunnion slide. These adjustments will perform the same function as shimming the rear trunnion mountings. Take a look at the attached photo for future reference. The only negative with the adjustment is that you need a very thin(~3/16") 17mm open end wrench. The 18mm that comes with the saw will work but is pretty sloppy and therefore slow in making the adjustments but it will do in a pinch.

    The Green arrows point to the adjustment, the red arrows point to a locking nut that locks the adjustment in place once it is correct.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by James Combs; 04-04-2010 at 9:13 PM.
    ____________________________________________
    JD at J&J WoodSmithing
    Owingsville, Kentucky

    "The best things in life are not things."

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by James Combs View Post
    The Green arrows point to the adjustment, the red arrows point to a locking nut that locks the adjustment in place once it is correct.
    Sweet. You should be able to get adjusted in a very short time with that feature.
    “If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.” -- George Orwell


  12. #12
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    James, It Ain't BROKE anymore, so don't fix it! You may end up with other issues if you loosen everything to add shims. IMO, don't do anything, unless your test cuts are unacceptable.
    Necessisity is the Mother of Invention, But If it Ain't Broke don't Fix It !!

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