1/4 MDF Epilog Zing 40w settings?

[Zachary Buckholz]

Hello people -

I am attempting to vector some MDF 1/4" with the following settings:
20 speed
70 power
500 freq
500 dpi

It's working, but I was wondering if anyone had other configuration settings I could try. I am not happy with the current results. Lots of burnt wood.

Thanks
Zach

[Kasey Maxwell]

You have the same machine I do, does it do a good job cutting mdf? That stuff is so hard, I might have to try it

[Joe Pelonio]

That seems off to me, I have 45 watts and cut 1/4" MDF at speed 8, 100% power, frequency 600.

[Zachary Buckholz]

Thanks for the config, I tried it and it burned the wood pretty bad. Still playing around with various settings.

[Doug Griffith]

I also have a 45 Mini and use Joe's settings. I sometimes run into really hard batches that don't cut well at all at any setting.

[Zachary Buckholz]

Maybe I just got an extra hard piece. I have not problems cutting through it, it just scorches the hell out of it.

[Dee Gallo]

I think you are going to find that cutting of any wood or wood product will result in some charring of the edges. If you need perfectly clean cuts, you will have to go without your laser. Learn to love the char! Sell it as a bonus feature... "look at the great Beidermier effect!"

cheers, dee

[Michael Hunter]

My Epilog is 60W, so it's not a direct comparison, but I find that the cheap 6mm MDF from the DIY barns cuts with a brown edge but no char at all.

MDF is made in various grades : the "better" grades have much more glue in them and more wood fibre (so it is more highly compressed). I've not tried lasering these, but would expect them to be significantly more difficult to cut.

A way to test for the grade is to sandpaper it - the cheap (easily cut) stuff goes "fluffy" where it's been sanded, whereas the "better" grades are smooth.

[Martin Boekers]

I don't do much MDF but on .25" Alder I use a frequency around 250.

I'd test yours at some lower frequencys and see if that helps. Also remember to have the air assist on, if not your just making firewood


Marty

[Mike Chance in Iowa]

I too use a similar setting as Joe for my 45-watt. I switch between 8/100/500 and 8/100/600 depending upon where I purchased my 1/4" MDF from. The cuts are a nice, brown edge and not charred at all.

[Dee Gallo]

My Epilog is 60W, so it's not a direct comparison, but I find that the cheap 6mm MDF from the DIY barns cuts with a brown edge but no char at all.

MDF is made in various grades : the "better" grades have much more glue in them and more wood fibre (so it is more highly compressed). I've not tried lasering these, but would expect them to be significantly more difficult to cut.

A way to test for the grade is to sandpaper it - the cheap (easily cut) stuff goes "fluffy" where it's been sanded, whereas the "better" grades are smooth.

I stand corrected, I guess I always got the "better" stuff, which does turn black. Thanks, Michael!

[Steve Clarkson]

I finally bought some 1/4" MDF because I thought I had read on the Creek that alot of people liked cutting it.

Well, I had no trouble cutting it.....probably used Joe's settings......but the char left after cutting was unbelievable and it got on everything it touched.....totally messed up what I was making.

Why would you ever use MDF instead of 1/4" oak, maple or birch?

[Michael Hunter]

MDF is great for trying out designs, 'cos it is so cheap.

Also very good for making router jigs etc. since it is dimensionally stable and won't split or crack.

Another + for MDF is that (so long as you use the same supplier each time) it is very consistent : once you get the right settings you can stay with them.
Quite different from birch ply and some hardwoods where you need to "overburn" in order to accomodate dense patches, glue pockets and other hidden nasties.

[Zachary Buckholz]

Thanks to everyone that provided feedback, the wood does appear to be a good quality mdf. I have tried various settings and still not happy with the results. Oh well.

I accepted a custom project to make a special shelving unit, and started cutting slotted frame pieces that can be flat packed and assembled by the customer.

Then an idea came up to just layer multiple pieces of identically cut mdf to create the same frame.

Back to the birch frame design, and I am pretty glad its working out well. But it would still be nice to cut mdf if needed without loads of soot.

[John Lane]

Try "Medite Premier" MDF, clean brown edges, no char, easy to vector cut. Available in UK, not sure about ROW.