Wood Chisel Survey for Beginners (Revised For The Record)

[Martin Cash]

Many Thanks again Bob.
It is great to have an online encyclopedia like you handy.
You are a champion.
Gratias
MC

[Peter Rudy]

Hello Bob

What an amazing article - I learned more in 10 minutes than in hours of trolling.

Questions:

1. You said: DON'T BUY: Newer Greenlee, Buck or Stanley socket chisels made in the 1960's and later. (Did 'socket' apply to Stanley or all three makers?)

And How do you distingush 1960's Greenlee, Buck or Stanley socket chisels from older chisels? Is it a logo change? Such as the stylized Greenlee horseshoe logo vs the straight text; or the Buck Bros stag logo vs the "-Buck Bros.-"?

2. Stanley Socket chisels without a 750, or 720. What is the difference between marked on the socket Stanley 750's and identical looking Stanley's that simply say: Stanley Made In USA.

Many thanks!

[Gary Herrmann]

I don't know if this is accurate, but I have several Greenlees - I think they're firmer chisels. A couple of them are made from shinier steel. They also seem to not quite as thick as the others. I wonder if that marks them as newer?

I don't recall how or if the logos differ, but I can look when I get home. I'm sure there will be some differences, since I have a mixed bag, er roll of chisels.

[Bob Smalser]

1. You said: DON'T BUY: Newer Greenlee, Buck or Stanley socket chisels made in the 1960's and later. (Did 'socket' apply to Stanley or all three makers?)

And How do you distingush 1960's Greenlee, Buck or Stanley socket chisels from older chisels? Is it a logo change? Such as the stylized Greenlee horseshoe logo vs the straight text; or the Buck Bros stag logo vs the "-Buck Bros.-"?

2. Stanley Socket chisels without a 750, or 720. What is the difference between marked on the socket Stanley 750's and identical looking Stanley's that simply say: Stanley Made In USA.

Don't worry about it. The differences are small and there weren't enough socket chisels made in the 60's and later that even finding one is common.

And a Stanley is a Stanley as the steel all came out of the same pot. I find they are hit or miss on steel quality without regard to markings.

[Peter Rudy]

Thanks Bob. I will do my best not worry.

Given that Stanley, Swan and Witherby etc are sought by collectors, what makers would you suggest for a serious user?

I have been taking fine woodworking classes for a year. After cutting a fair share of dovetails (one joinery class required one a day) I want to move up from my Marple Blue Chips. Getting a set of LN would be too easy. Would appreciate your suggestions.

Noticed in the first part of your original posting the photo of the Footprint bench chisels. My wife is English and I have picked up some older Footprint tools in the UK. You do not hear about them much in the US. Your thoughts?

[Bob Smalser]

My concern is you not get wrapped around the wrong ideas. Greenlees remain an excellent value, as do Buck.....both of which have just as many good chisels in the pile as Swan, Witherby or Stanley. But Blue Chips will still do the job, and doing the job is the important part.


As do Footprints for that matter. The set you mention I used to 30 years before eBay came along and I could pick up oldies easily. Excellent chisels, on a par with today's Ashley Iles.

[Erik Manchester]

Bob,

I have acquired a fair number of old chisels from many of the manufacturers that you mention and I intend to restore them as I get time. I have often looked (without success) for a good online reference of the makers marks for the more popular brands of old tools (Witherby, Swan, Buck, etc) that show their evolution on a timeline.

Both Witherby and Swan have many different marks and I have found quite a few examples in many different places, but not in a single convenient location. Are you aware of such a source online, or must I buy a reference book that would undoubtedly have lots of info?

Any help gratefully appreciated,

Erik

[Bob Smalser]

Are you aware of such a source online, or must I buy a reference book that would undoubtedly have lots of info?

http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/1W...geTools-ne.pdf

http://www.davistownmuseum.org/bioSwan.html

http://www.davistownmuseum.org/bioBuckBrothers.html

http://www.davistownmuseum.org/bioBarton.html

http://www.sydnassloot.com/Brace/PSW.htm

http://www.thckk.org/

[Gary Herrmann]

I'm thinkin thats a yes. Great resources. Thanks Bob.

[Erik Manchester]

Bob,

Thanks a bunch for the online resource links. I am trying to build a timeline for some of the more popular brands that have been around for quite a while and everything helps. As I am overseas at the moment I have time for online searches and trolling e-bay, however making shavings will have to wait until next year.

Thanks again,

Erik

[Shawn MacRitchie]

Hi Bob,

I would like to whole-heartedly echo the appreciation of you sharing your wealth of experience. I am a latecomer to the woodworking world. It had always been a desire of mine to take up woodworking and finally about a year ago, my wife and I purchased a house that had a respectable place for a shop. So after a little over 20 years of dreaming I am able to realize that desire. Not to be too schmaltzy, but I honestly feel that I have finally made it to my home port after being adrift for way too many years. I especially enjoy the great sense of community amongst woodworkers and most notably the willingness of experienced craftsmen such as yourself, to share their knowledge. So again, Thank you.

I have been actively involved in music as an instrumentalist for most of my life (not professionally mind you, but seriously active none the less) and I mention this only to express that I have a very special appreciation for edged hand tools because of the control and tactile feedback they engender. I get a special sense of satisfaction (and the requisite, occasional frustration) from what little, true hand work I have done so far. Part of this is also the acquisition of quality old tools and the act of refurbishing and tuning them up (as opposed to the sometimes mind-boggling do's and dont's of "restoring" as defined by collectors). I feel a certain romantic sense of legacy in continuing their working life and respect the pride of craftsmanship that is often exemplified by the quality of many of the old tools compared to the vast majority of the commonly produced tools of today (with notable exceptions of brands I can't afford).

Anyway, without rambling too much more, I will get to the meat of my post. I thoroughly enjoyed your contribution to the Fine Woodworking Hand Tools special and am even more glad you have filled back in the casualties of the editing process, here. It is a tremendous resource to me as an acquirer of "users". I have picked my fair share of crap, due to ignorance on my part, and only discovered it as I am tuning it up or worse, when I put it to wood.

In reference to your descriptions of the varieties in the mortising family of chisels, you mentioned the long chisels once used in sash production work. I am concentrating on developing some good, basic mortising skills and would like to make the right choice in the style of chisel to use and am attracted to the leverage these could provide. From a functionality standpoint, what differentiates a longer, straight-sided firmer and one of these? And in the same vein, what would you recommend for mortising and/or what are the advantages of a registered mortise chisel vs. the long, sash-production chisel vs. a quality, longer, straight-sided firmer with a mortise-friendly bevel? And as a side question, what angle do you personally sharpen to for mortising? Unfortunately I do not have the budget and more importantly, do not yet have the skill level to have a large stable consisting of dozens of chisels for very specific tasks. However, I am a firm believer in the right tool for the right job and can be diligently resourceful enough to build my arsenal if you can help by pointing me in the right direction.

Also, in my trolling efforts acquiring tools, I have picked up a 1/4" socket chisel, at a price I could not refuse, labelled simply Hibbard on the socket and underneath that, True Value. I have read up on Hibbard's history and know that they created the True Value brand and am curious if this chisel is from a different product line than the OVB labelled chisels you and other sources have described. In addition I am curious about its best use. The blade portion itself, not including the socket is 6-1/4" long. It is a little unique to my eyes because proportionally it is like a sash mortise chisel, fairly thick from front/top to blade back and with the same type of taper a sash mortise chisel has. The unique part is that it has a very slight bevel similar to a beveled bench chisel. So slight that it leaves fairly substantial flat sides. What is the intention of this design and what tasks would it be best suited for?

Lastly, I have read your article on making handles without a lathe. I am not quite ready to venture into turning yet and your process detail in the article makes me confident that I can accomplish this with some practice. In the article you described how to mount a brass ferrule. Some of my chisels and in some of the pictures you have provided, leather washers are used instead. In what type of use are these more advantageous and how do you incorporate these into the handle making process?

I realize this is a long post, but I was feeling "wordy" tonight.

Thanks,
Shawn

[Derek Stevens]

Not trying to bump an old thread, but just wanted to throw props to Bob. great summary on chisels, nicely illustrated. Did you make your own leathers for the slick/ framers?

[Clark Magnuson]

I am grateful for this thread. It led me to this sawmill creek forum with Google.

I found a wood chisel in a junk pile about to be thrown out.

It had no handle and had been pounded on the metal opening in the rear until it was peened over. The other end was blunt.

I cleaned off the rust.
I sharpened it.
I cut off the peened over part.
I made a handle of Iron Wood with a 6 degree taper on each side.
I made a steel hoop for the rear with a 0.8 degree internal taper on each side.

[George Sanders]

Thanks for the info Bob. Apparently, from you list, I have been collecting good brands. I don't have a complete set of anything yet, but I have enough good users to get the job done. I have noticed that at least in my area good chisels are getting pretty scarce. I just don't find them at auctions or yard sales anymore.

[Van Huskey]

Thanks for the good information, I have enjoyed the thread.