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Thread: Oddball Unisaw DC solution

  1. #1
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    Oddball Unisaw DC solution

    I just repiped my DC with 6" PVC, and one issue I had was that there didn't seem to be any easy way to convert my Unisaw from a 4" outlet to a 6" outlet. I took the plate off, but found a 4" x 19" (?) ramp about 4" off the ground, but even building a transition there was going to mean a big ugly pipe under my TS right extension. The first pic is my solution. It is a large box, even with the base of the saw, and you can see how it butts up against the ramp with the opening in the 3rd pic. There is sort of a shelf built into the box--the dust travels under the shelf, which is a 4" tall channel, which then opens out into another area that accommodates a 6" blast gate. The shelf is accessed by lifting up a cover attached with piano hinge. I did put a galvanized ramp on the inlet side, top and bottom. Its sealed around the edges as well, just because I was paranoid.

    It would have been nice to do something like the drawers I see under other TS extensions, but if you notice, the access door for the motor is under the wing and swings out. That means if I want access to allow the door to open, I lose about 50% of the linear space under the saw. I decided, therefore, to go with chest-type storage, figuring I could put lesser used items in there and pile more useful stuff on top.

    I had to cut a bunch of stuff w/o any DC on my saw while this was going on, and it built up quite the ugly pile on the ramp and inside the saw. I was a bit worried that without sealing the mating between the saw and the box that I wouldn't have enough suction to pull stuff through, but I turned on the DC and then inspected via the access door and it was clean as a whistle. Not bad for scrap ply and a few hours on the weekend.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    Good solution, but did you keep the cross-section constant through the "duct" ? If not - you may build up piles where air speed drops below a critical FPM. Even if you didn't, I'm sure it'll work good enough for all intents and purposes..

  3. #3
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    Looks great, Eric. I've had all kind of thoughts as to what I'm gonna do with my Uni...thanks for more confusion...
    I drink, therefore I am.

  4. #4
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    The cross section gets slightly larger in the box, probably wider by 10% or so; it maintains a 4" height, but the box is slightly wider than the opening on the saw. It opens up a lot more at duct end, but the thought of wrestling galvanized sheet into a constant width connection between 4" x 20" rectangular to 6" circular was more effort than I wanted. B'sides, I can monitor any build-up because it is easy to disconnect the pipe from the blast gate and reach in.

    Given the amount of dust that was in my cabinet before--back when I was using a lot more (and leakier) 4" PVC and snaplock, with a looong run of 4" flex to the saw--this is a huge improvement. I was a bit worried about what you are talking about, but it seems to work fine.

    It isn't much compared to the side tables I've seen with all the drawer and stuff, but I wasn't thinking about that when I bought a saw with an access panel where it is. Too bad, it does seem like a lot of wasted space.

  5. #5
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    eric.....how about a pic or two of the saw opening and the internal ramp you mentioned. i like what you did but i need mobility. however, i'm interested in what's inside the saw for how it help direct dust to where your dust collection "chest" mates up with the saw. thanks.
    Last edited by Joseph Tarantino; 07-05-2012 at 2:10 PM.

  6. #6
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    I'll try when I get home, but I didn't modify the insides of the saw. All I did was detach the plate on the side with the 4" port on it. When I did that, inside my saw was a sloped ramp that funneled stuff towards the 4" port. I gather the insides of the Unisaw have changed over the years.

    Actually, I just found a copy of my manual on line. Look at the picture on the front cover and figures 20, 39, and 43 and you can see what the insides of the saw with the ramp look like. I tried to find where in the manual they talk about installing the DC port, but it doesn't seem like they cover that. The parts shown don't even include a DC port to cover up that rectangular slot, which is even stranger. I can't believe it was sold as an add-on... (I bought my saw 2nd hand).

  7. #7
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    can you email me a link to that manual?

  8. #8
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    Whups, meant to include the link: http://www.mikestools.com/download/D...als/36-955.pdf

  9. #9
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    thanks for the link. i looked at the figures you mentioned and that's what i'm going to attempt to configure. with the way my older unisaw cabinet is constructed, i can't create as large an opening as your saw has, but i can attempt to creat the ramp and add a 4" DC fitting on the cabinet side below the motor cover and above the removable "foot" of my saw towards the front of the cabinet. when i checked on the cost of the ramp your saw has, it's > $450 as it is part of the cabinet. looks like they got a little more dust sensitive between the 70s and '00. but your info confirms that i'm at least pursuing an alternative that has a reasonable chance of success. thanks.

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