Best HVLP system?

[Cameron Reddy]

Having a nightmare finishing cabinet doors... I get too much run-over to the bottom edge of the doors.

And I have a big house painting job this summer. I'm a hobbyist but occasionally I do something like a hardwood floor or wall of custom milled paneling.

So, I'm looking at a system that will handle paint as well as fine furniture.

Jeff Jewitt, who I very much respect, suggests his Fuji Super 4 system. It seems pretty nice and I'm very tempted to pull the trigger and buy from him even though I can get it cheaper from Amazon. I wonder if the extra $100 bucks for the Q4 Gold is worth the decrease in noise.

But, I wanted to ask you guys. I see a pretty interesting system from Graco and I wonder about the utility of the ProComp Accessory Pack that allows separating the gun from the material cup... Not sure what that gets me beyond the 3M PPS material cups that I can add to the Fuji.

Ideas?

Other systems that you guys like?

Cameron Reddy

[George Brown]

I have a 4 stage apollo unit with 5 sizes of nozzles/needles. Works well. The newer apollo ones have both a bottom and top feed gun, mine only a bottom feed. Have not tried the others, but mine works well.

[Henry Ambrose]

I have a Graco HVLP and like it for finishing. It's great for cabinets ans such. To paint a house - its the wrong tool - get (rent) an airless. I don't have any first hand knowledge of the Fuji but hear good things about them.

[Cameron Reddy]

I'm getting the idea. The HVLP is the wrong tool for a house. It can be done, I understand, but it makes no sense. Use a roller and brush or get a more appropriate system.

You guys have helped much, as always. Now I need to decide if I should go for something like the Mini Mite 3 on the inexpensive end (<$600), or the top Fuji 4 stage system, with special sound insulation, on the high end (just under a grand). The latter would handle thicker stuff like latex paint on furniture and would be luxuriously quiet.

I'll think about it over this weekend.

[Phil Phelps]

I don't think you'll be happy with a HVLP painting a house. They aren't a cure all. You'll want an airless system for house painting. Even so, an airless isn't always the way to go, either. You are having problems with your doors because you are painting them vertically or maybe your material is too thin and you're flooding the door. You'll have the same problem with a HVLP. HVLP's simply have less overspray, but you still have to thin the material the same. You need to set your doors on "pins" and spray them flat. You can drive 1 1/4" brads through 1/4"x2"x2" plywood and set these in the corners under the door. Spray the door, not the edge, and flip it over. Then spray the edge and face. You'll have a much job this way. HVLP's are good but not the end all people sometimes think.

[Cameron Reddy]

Phil, I obviously didn't make it clear. I'm trying to apply the finish by hand. I don't have a sprayer. I have a toner in the finish and I can't keep it from running around the bottom edges. And it streaks too much!

Why do you think the HVLP system is inadequate for painting a house (in this case, the exterior)?

I really do appreciate your input!

Cameron

[Scott Holmes]

HVLP units are MUCH slower at delivering material to a surface, than an airless paint sprayer.

They also can't handle thick latex house paint without thinning which is not recommended.

There is a "best of both worlds" an Air-Assisted Airless... they are not cheap; they are all-in-one units; a soft spray like the HVLP; the speed of an airless for production. I can spray anything from shellac or dye to latex paint in anything from a 1" to a 15" fan. NO THINNING NEEDED. I don't use it for latex but it will spray is flawlessly.

As someone else on this forum said "A-A Airless are in a class by themselves."

[Joe Chritz]

I use a conversion gun, top cup feed and it does fine. Any of the turbine units of a quality nature will give you great service.

As Scott mentions it isn't a one size fits all deal. For what it is designed for an HVLP is a great set up. I can spray SW pro-classic but it needs to be thinned almost 15% and then it is pretty slow. A different needle / nozzle will help some but for a house it will be a slow painful process.

When I built my house I used an airless inside and backrolled. The house is about 2000 Sq ft with 9 foot ceilings. One guy spraying, one rolling, including ceilings was 4 hours per coat. They will lay down some material in a hurry.

There is a lot to a finishing system. Especially when you get into pressure pot, AAA and the like. Try a couple if you can and see what you like. Each system has advantages, disadvantages and different feel.

Joe

[Phil Phelps]

Phil, I obviously didn't make it clear. I'm trying to apply the finish by hand. I don't have a sprayer. I have a toner in the finish and I can't keep it from running around the bottom edges. And it streaks too much!

Why do you think the HVLP system is inadequate for painting a house (in this case, the exterior)?

I really do appreciate your input!

Cameron

Cameron, as Scott says, HVLP's aren't designed to spray heavy bodied latex paints. HVLP's are wonderful sprayguns in as much as they deliver a lot of material with a soft spray and large reduction in overspray. Many, like me, use a conversion gun, (to be used with a large air compressor), and other HVLP's have a turbine that drives the unit. As far as the streaking in your doors, it sounds as if the toner you are using isn't blending with your, whatever you are using as a top coat.

[Cameron Reddy]

Phil, I've got a Campbell Hausfeld 20 gallon compressor that says can do 5.8 CFM at 90 PSI. Newer versions of this compressor have an additional specification for 40 PSI and it's 6.5 CFM, as I recall. And it's an oil-bath motor.

I'm concerned about oil in the line. I've heard there are water/oil filters but I'm skeptical of their efficacy.

Jeff Jewett suggested I go with a turbine unit. Do you agree?

Cameron

[Joe Chritz]

That compressor is able to drive a standard conversion gun but it is on the very bottom side of possible and if you do a fair amount at one time it will struggle to keep up.

I use a 60 gallon 3 HP 220v compressor with a bunch of 1/2 copper lines in the shop (increases the overall air volume) and the compressor will kick on after about 80-90 seconds of spraying at my normal settings. If I continue to spray non-stop it won't catch up but it does keep up.

HVLP is high volume so the smaller tank will hurt you as much as lower CFM.

If you do get a conversion gun it won't take a lot of spraying before you are shopping for a compressor.

Joe

[Phil Phelps]

Cameron, if you were trying to paint a 4x8 and keep a wet edge, I'd say the compressor would be taxed quite a bit. It takes a lot of air to run a conversion gun. Several years ago, a friend bought an Accuspray HVLP, in a swap meet, that ran off a turbine. The whole thing looked like a toy. However, it was, is, most impressive. My first thoughts were, " this is just what every garage guy needs." I'm sure there have been many improvements since that model and I would like to have one myself. It is a very compact unit that delivers great results. You need to determine what your needs are and decide from there. Jeff's on target with the turbine. Good luck finding a good price.

[Cameron Reddy]

I'm getting the idea. The HVLP is the wrong tool for a house. It can be done, I understand, but it makes no sense. Use a roller and brush or get a more appropriate system.

You guys have helped much, as always. Now I need to decide if I should go for something like the Mini Mite 3 on the inexpensive end (<$600), or the top Fuji 4 stage system, with special sound insulation, on the high end (just under a grand). The latter would handle thicker stuff like latex paint on furniture and would be luxuriously quiet.

I'll think about it over this weekend.

[Scott Holmes]

Cameron,

NO LATEX paint on FURNITURE. Repeat. It will block which means it will stick to whatever is set on it and then it will come off the furniture. Latex paint is for houses and walls.

I'm not sure I'd want to put latex paint in an HVLP system... latex is a bit abrasive, and thick, also not sure the system could spray it without thinning it.

[George Brown]

I often use latex in my HVLP. You do need a 4 stage machine, and I add 2 oz of water and 2oz of floetrol per quart. Does a good job.

Though a little slow, you could use it to paint a house. You would need a remote container to hold more paint than the quart attached to the gun. Using a large nozzle, you can lay down quite a bit of paint, and it is still easier than doing it by hand. Also, a good reason to justify the cost of the machine

However, an airless is the way to go. MUCH faster.