Pre Joe's R&P walk through

[james mcgrew]

love the john deere paint colors, quality of the paint is top notch as well!

jim

[Mike Heidrick]

Worked a bit on my controller box tonight. Cut and mounted DIN rail, installed a through door disconnect, drilled and tapped the mounting screws for the G540 and its fan, put the momentary switch in a hole on top (hole was already there) and started working out placement of pieces a bit. I will take it all out tomorrow and drill for Estops and cut for outlet for router and power inlet. Let me know what you think about it.

[Mike Heidrick]

Drilled holes for the estops, added a 120V outlet for the router, mounted 48V power supply, and wired PS and outlet to screw terminals. Wired 3 negative and 3 positives from the 48V power supply as well.

[Rob Wright]

Mike - that is looking great! Going to do an abbreviated parts list on this for the rest of us?

[Mike Heidrick]

I sure could if you want it.

I went with factorymation parts Mostly (Teco and WEG) after buying some others recommended by a Joes member (thanks so much for that adminb). They are OK and would work perfectly fine but after getting the WEG momentary power button from factorymation I decided I wanted their EStop and then re-bought my disconnect from factorymation as well (original purchased disconnect had a rough disconnect motion/feel to me).

I will list the cheaper and the re-bought options.

[Rob Wright]

Mike - that will be a great resource for builders here. I was going to go with a 203v setup on my machine after some issues and was looking at the AdminB (Brian Peters here on SawmillCreek) BOM for a controller with contactor/disconnect/DIN Rail etc. and is probably similar to yours - but just want to compare and look at what the setup would be for a g540. Thanks - Rob

[Mike Heidrick]

I got the power cord installed, the Disconnect wired, the Contactor wired, the fuse wired, the Main EStop for 120V wired, The momentary power buttons wired, the power button LED wired.

It all tests out - will not turn on without disconnect in ON position (which also locks the door closed), The green on button closes the mag coil on contactor, it stays closed and allows 120V through the contactor, The LED turns on with that circuit active, the red stop button breaks the circuit, the E stop breaks the circuit, the disconnect in the off position breaks the circuit.

Now All I have to do is plug in the 120V devices I want powered to the contactor T2 Line (L1 loops from T1 through the L2/T2 circuit and terminates at T2)and T3 Neutral. This includes the 12V power supply, the relay circuit (12V coil and Gecko G540 controlled) for the power on of the 120V router through MACH, and the 120V in for the 48V power supply.

I also installed four two hole (2X2) unistrut angle brackets on the legs of the base so I can install a cross pair of braces from leg to leg diagonally.

[Mike Heidrick]

Here is a spreadsheet I made of the controller box parts. Major credit to AdminB for the inspiration!! Minus the enclosure it was $219 plus shipping in parts assuming you have the needed tools and supplies.

www.factorymation.com
www.electdirect.com

...are the sites I got the parts from.

Make sure you have an enclosure you want to use. I used a Nema 12/13 enclosure. Order your disconnect shaft to match the enclosure depth or use the door mount kit.

The mean well power supply from this kit is 11.75" long so it will not fit any of the premade boxes on the net I have found.

[Mike Heidrick]

I am sure folks can research how to wire a contactor and switches but if you want that process documented I can list how I wired everything up.

[Angie Orfanedes]

Hey Mike,

Your control cabinet looks very professional. However, just a note of caution...you may want a fan blowing directly on the bottom of the Gecko 540 to keep its temp in an acceptable range. Check this out:
http://www.geckodrive.com/upload/G54...Experiment.pdf.

I found my Gecko was getting super hot, so I arranged dual fans to blow on the bottom and this kept the temp down to acceptable levels. But I am a super cautious guy...

Angie

[Mike Heidrick]

Hi angie. Up in post #18 see picture C8 (right side of box with G540 on it - round shroud). Post number 12 also shows the fan. I have a 80mm hi-flow fan blowing Directly on the bottom of the G540. It is a Cooler Master. The shroud for the fan has been tapped to teh case as well. Plus the mount of the G540 to the steel case will also provide some level of heatsink. Fan is the main cooler though.

I also have a 2nd fan blowing on the 12V power supply.

Thanks for mentioning the fan needs though for the G540s!

Fans are listed in the "supplies" section of the spreadsheet.

[Mike Heidrick]

Added Wiring instructions and Line drawing picture.

This is only the wiring of the disconnect, fuse, contactor, estop (for power not the Gecko drive enable Estop), and power button/LED.

I have not shown wiring of the Geck G540, power supplies (48V and 12V), relays, or any input/outputs.

[Rob Wright]

Mike - absolutely great schematic of the wiring. Thanks you so much!

[Mike Heidrick]

No problem. I will add another of the REST of the wiring which is adding in all the toys - home and limit switches, a touch plate/center finder port, the 48V and 12Vpower suppllies, the G540, and the relay for the router.

Tonights progress - my controller box wiring is done and I have a green light on the G540 (with charge pump off). Tonights wiring was the home/limit/touch point terminal to the pins 1-4 on the G540 and two terminals of 48V- using a Radio Shack 6 screw terminal mounted on the outside left plate of the 12/13 case, the Geckos Enable Estop NC1 to pin 10 and NC2 to 48V-, the 12V supply to 120V L-N-Grnd, the 48V to 120V L-N-Grnd, the Routers relay to L-N and its col to 12V+ and pin 6 of G540, the G540 pin 11 to 48V+ and Pin 12 to 48V- (L-N-Grnd = Line, Neutral, Ground).

Also drilled out my pre drilled Moore Gear Rack to flush mount 1/4-20 1/2" Socket Head Cap Screws. Sure hope they will fit with some T-nuts in the 80-20. Really simple to drill on a drill press and a 3/8' drill bit (I have a cheap ~$30 25-piece Dewalt Oxide drill bit set that has been wonderful on all the steel drilling so far!!).

[Rob Wright]

Yeah - the Moore racks - well can be considered an issue to some, sorry about that. When we were going round and round trying to get a consensus on what the spacing and hole sizes should be, we received limited input from other members on the Joe's forum on just what everyone wanted. Moore gear suggested the low head cap screws because they did not recommend drilling 0.26" deep into the 0.50 rack to fit the counter sink of the standard 1/4" capscrew. The carriages are pretty close to the rack and needed the screws counter sunk unless you wanted to cut a small relief in the side of the MDF. We drew something up and asked for additional input from the members, little or none was received, so we went with that design. People were having a tough time getting the low profile screws for a decent price ( I think that they were going to Fastenal) and complained of the price and availability. I know that Graigner has a better price for them. I posted a link where I ordered all of my socket head cap screws for my build and I think that 50 were like $4. Drilling out the rack is not hard, and even drilling the un-drilled rack really isn't too hard as well.

You are really going to have a Class A build when you are done!