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Thread: percise bits and a few noob bit questions

  1. Quote Originally Posted by Gerry Grzadzinski View Post
    The code for a square end mill and ballend mill will not be the same at all?? The ball nose bit can reach places the square end can not.

    And yes, choose ball end for the core box bit.
    Maybe I worded that badly. I thought that the code was the same (assuming the same step over and tool size ect..). Apparently that is not the case. I just ran Aspire and it appears that the code is not the same. Oops, sorry . That goes against what I was told. But I should know better then to believe that by now.
    John Torrez
    Think & Tinker / PreciseBits

  2. #32
    So talking about Aspire, would this be the set up for this bit?

    http://www.precisebits.com/products/...arve250b4f.asp
    Attached Images Attached Images
    O'Brien Truckers Automotive Aluminum Sand Castings
    Stinger SN 001
    Corel X5, Aspire, PhotoVCarve, Cut3D

  3. #33
    dennis, i normally set them up as a bn bit, i have yet to use the taper in the toolpath data base (old habits before aspire) but i believe this would be the setup for the .0625 (my fav bit)
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #34
    Aspire has a tapered BN selection and askes for the angle, so why wouldn't you use that? The taper is going to affect the radius of the end mill depending on how deep you go, right?
    O'Brien Truckers Automotive Aluminum Sand Castings
    Stinger SN 001
    Corel X5, Aspire, PhotoVCarve, Cut3D

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Lansing, MI
    Posts
    117
    Hey Jim--it looks like the Precise Bits owner listened to you. (Hopefully that link works for you guys.)

    Funny, I could have sworn there was a thread called "Problems with Precise Bits?" in which a fella told a story about being treated somewhat roughly by the owner of Precise Bits, and which Jim had a follow up story to go with about a similar treatment, also from the owner of Precise Bits, when he (Jim) called to complain about the collet wrench being too tight. I can't find it now--I was going to post my link therein) but as you can see from the article I linked to above, someone did listen.

  6. #36
    thanks matt, i got the same email notification this am. the wrench certainly needed a small bit of work!! looks like good progress to me however this is not my doing just one of several i know. the collets are first class and add a professional element to a standard router for sure.

    jim

  7. #37
    Question for John if you're still watching. Any thought about making collets for the new Porter Cable and Dewalt Compact routers?

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Irvine, California
    Posts
    8
    This is a great thread! Thank you all. I never use a CNC router to do inlay before. I want to learn. If I want to cut thin wood veneers (1/40") with a CNC router bit say 1/16, how do we keep the veneer from moving around? With vacuum?

  9. #39
    Here is a Gamecock done for an Alumni center I did recently using the Vectric inlay toolpathing. This is Bronze metal lamintate not the vcarve method

    I do the positive Male first as it size wise dictates the female sizing. I will use one spray layer of contact adhesive on a Melamine 3/4 to hold it while cutting. I have large 15 and 25 hp vacs but they will not hold the smallest pieces.

    Once the male is ready I set the female to less depth and just .001 in offset, I never take it off the cnc until the fit is right including depth to include needed adhesives (if this is a factor). I will run once shallow and check the male to female then again til I get it right. even though I still do this on the main inlay (I get paid for this so mistakes are costly) I will have a small test on the table at the same time that I run before each file to insure what I am doing will work.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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