Tried Something Different

[Bert Kemp]

I've used black and it sticks good, I had a piece that wasn't sealed, and the powder after I vac it off was still in the grain of the wood. I put it under the sink sprayer and washed of the the powder, the engrave stayed fine. That was black. I still haven't found good settings for the colored powders, Has anyone else had good luck with colored powder coat??

[Tim Bateson]

As with Bert, I use a vacuum to clean-up. I'm not sure how it would hold up to an air hose. However after it's sealed, it's locked in.

[Mr Mike Mills]

This is what mine is doing, and this one was after I wiped it off with a rag. The rag pulled some of it off the Mr. Powder Paint.jpg

What would happen if you filled with the powder paint and then clear coated? Would that stay in.

[Tim Bateson]

How much power are you using on the powder paint? How thick are you putting the powder in? Doesn't require much of either.

[Mike Chance in Iowa]

I had better luck with Harbor Freight colors when I applied several light layers and engraved with a slow, but light power setting. Each light dusting of powder and then engraving made the color look better, but it was still a slow process. I have also tried a thick layer while engraving slow to try to "bake" the powder on, but I have had mixed results with the powder flaking off the wood, while bits of it need a chisel to take it off!

[Mr Mike Mills]

How much power are you using on the powder paint? How thick are you putting the powder in? Doesn't require much of either.

The lasering is only about 1/64 - 1/32" deep and I filled the entire thing up to the top.

[Bert Kemp]

I had better luck with Harbor Freight colors when I applied several light layers and engraved with a slow, but light power setting. Each light dusting of powder and then engraving made the color look better, but it was still a slow process. I have also tried a thick layer while engraving slow to try to "bake" the powder on, but I have had mixed results with the powder flaking off the wood, while bits of it need a chisel to take it off!

Mike what raster pwr and spd do you use. Wha watt tube do you have?

[Mike Chance in Iowa]

45-watt. I start out at 100 speed, 11 power 600dpi if it's a light coat and slow down the speed depending upon colors. I found an old test piece of alder wood where engraved text next to a square. I jotted down "4 thin layers at 90/10" and the HF colors turned out fairly nice when it came to text, but the white squares could have used a few more layers. The yellow/orange and the red colors looked better then the white. The black by far was the nicest test.

I also did some "thick powder" tests where the speed/power was 10/5. The white & yellow colors flaked off while the red & black colors are "okay." About a year or two ago, just for the heck of it, I tossed a piece of finished alder with a thick layer of black into the oven for maybe 1 minute. The black looked fantastic, but the finish on the piece of wood bubbled up and looked horrible. LOL

[Bert Kemp]

but the finish on the piece of wood bubbled up and looked horrible. LOL


I won't try that then, maybe if you seal the wood with a light coat of wood sealer not a shellac or urethane.

[Tim Bateson]

I use 11 power & 100 Speed.

[Dan Hintz]

I use 11 power & 100 Speed.

So, so, so... so you're saying it goes to 11?

[Bert Kemp]

This is what mine is doing, and this one was after I wiped it off with a rag. The rag pulled some of it off the Mr. Powder Paint.jpg

What would happen if you filled with the powder paint and then clear coated? Would that stay in.

I was reading this old thread again to see if anyone was having good luck with colors and see your wiping it with a rag, try the Vacuum.
I raster at 100spd 20 pwr on my 40 watt. thats Black, still working on colors.IMG_0153.jpgThis is still in laser waiting to be cut out but took a quick picture to show the powder coat after a quick vac before cutting. Will finish clean up after cut.