Problem flush sanding plugs

[Dave Tesch]

I've run into a problem with my latest project. i'm working on a box approx 20"x20"x15" made from pine plywood. i put 4 plugs in the box that cover up a t-nut embedded in the sides of the box. the plugs are made from pine and are 7/8" and fit in a 7/8" hole i drilled out with a spade bit. i gued the plugs in with titebond II and clamped them with C clamps.

the problem i am having is i am trying to sand the plugs flush with the box but it isn't working very well - my ROS is taking off material around the plugs faster than it is taking material off the plugs themselves. i started with 80 grit and worked up to 200 grit.

i don't know a lot about sanders but it seems like mine has too soft of a pad or something. it is the Velcro type.

I've also had this problem with various other plywood, where the lighter parts of the plywood sand faster than the darker parts and i get a wavy finish.

i need some advice on what to do.

[Prashun Patel]

A ROS is a tricky way to sand plugs flush - even if the underlying material was solid stock.

I prefer to use a chisel or block plane and then finish up with 150gt sandpaper on a hand sanding block. It keeps everything flat, and even fills in any gaps a little with sanding dust (um, not that I ever have any gaps that need filling...)

[Chip Lindley]

Hi Dave! You can use a sharp wood chisel or low-angle block plane to shave the plugs down. Trying to sand pine ply does exactly as you have encountered.

The resins in the late wood (dark area) of pine is much harder than the early wood (light areas. And the wide rings of fast-growing pine don't help. This makes for very wide soft areas when the rotary veneer is made into plywood. Sanding is just not the best option. Try using a cabinet scraper or card scraper on your box. You will be amazed and what such a simple hand tool can do!

[Dave Tesch]

thank you both, i will look into those items. i dont own any of those but my dad had a hand planer when i was a kid - i will look up what those tools are and see if i can buy them.

i've always had trouble at this stage of building. i can build well and paint well but sanding/finish is an area i need improvement.

[Stephen Cherry]

As mentioned, a chisel or plane would be the best bet and first choice for this type of thing. The hitch though is that they would need to be very sharp. Sharp enough to shave the hair off of your arm would be the beginning of sharpness, and unless you want to buy a fairly high end chisel, it won't come sharp enough.

Another alternative might be to use a flexible Japanese style saw, which can bend and cut a plug almost at the surface. I think these can be bought at a home center, or depot

[Greg Johnson]

I use a straight bit on a router set slightly above the surface to trim off the top of plugs. Then you only have to sand a few thousandths off. This seems to work better for me. I have tried the japan saw and chisel technique. With the chisel it would split down below the surface. With the japan saw I had problems with damaging the wood around the plug. This may have something to do with my 10 thumbs.....

Greg

[Dan Friedrichs]

I can also never get the chisel to work - always tears material below the surface. I use a small hand-saw, then a block of wood wrapped in sandpaper...

But I like Greg's idea - more power tools are always better

[Dave Tesch]

hmm. i do have a 1/2" pattern bit for my router that i use to put holes in things, i could give that a try.

i think i will try and see if dad still has that plane we had when i was a kid. it was a good plane, i remember my grandpa used it to true up my closet door about 30 years ago. it has not been used since. question is, where is it

i inherited one of those hand tools, a power planer in 1996. it is in new condition, likely never used. i have never used it. its green with yellow parts, no idea what brand; hitachi? frankly it has never seemed like a good idea to me, but i dont know either. maybe it is perfect.

i am thinking that the block plane might be a good idea for me to own.

[Cary Falk]

Belt sander.

[Mike Cruz]

The only problem with using a chisel is that you have to MAKE SURE you are going WITH the grain of the plug, otherwise you'll chunk out below the surface of the surrounding wood. That means that you'll have to pay attention to the direction of the grain when putting the plugs in. Another way to check plug grain, is to test it about 1/4 plus inches above the surounding surface. This assumes your plug is that high above the surface...

[John Coloccia]

Belt sander.

Norm always used the belt sander.

[Dave Tesch]

that i have.

[Jay Jolliffe]

I think belt sander and veneered plywood don't mix well. The veneers on the plywood are thin & the sander may if not careful take too much off.

[Fred Belknap]

Make side grain plugs out of similar material.

[Terry Welty]

+1 Japanese style saw followed by belt sander (gently) or sanding block and VIOLA your done...