Need help with A/C for my shop

[Kevin Gregoire]

i have a small shop (11x22) with no windows and im in desperate need of air conditioning for this summer so i have started looking for a/c units and there is window or through wall styles.
when i cut a hole in my wall why cant i just use a window type unit? is there that big of a difference in the two types?

any tips or tricks will also be appreciated!

thanks

[Rick Potter]

I think the window style comes with extra accordian type filler to finish up the space in the window. I used one of these and cut a hole in my wall. Worked fine, you can probably do ok with either type. I found a 24K btu on sale for $400 or so.

Rick Potter

[bruce buren]

I had the same problem a few years back, and decided to cut a hole in the wall for a window ac unit. I have a 16 x 24 well insulated shop and get by with a 8000 btu

[Michael Heffernan]

Basically, most 'through wall' A/C units are a window unit, but come with a metal box that you mount in the cut-out opening and the unit slides in on rails or tracks and locks into place. The advantage is that it is easier to remove the unit for servicing or to take it out in the winter and cap the opening with insulation and a face plate.

[Rod Sheridan]

Another issue with window units when installed through the wall, is that often the ventilation openings in the unit are blocked.

They're only designed for the thickness of a window, with the additional clearances provided by the window construction.

Through the wall units often have ventilation slots much further back, where the wall doesn't block them.

Regards, Rod.

[Steve Peterson]

This will help keep your main breaker balanced if you have other large 220V tools.

I have a 50A main breaker run to a subpanel in the shop. The large 220V loads are a 5HP table saw and a 5HP Clearvue cyclone. Each has a 30A breaker, but don't trip the main breaker since they don't start at the same time. I am worried that the 110V AC will overload one leg of the main breaker, so I may have to run a separate line for the AC. This is the first year that I have had all 3 loads.

Steve

[Kevin Gregoire]

This will help keep your main breaker balanced if you have other large 220V tools.

I have a 50A main breaker run to a subpanel in the shop. The large 220V loads are a 5HP table saw and a 5HP Clearvue cyclone. Each has a 30A breaker, but don't trip the main breaker since they don't start at the same time. I am worried that the 110V AC will overload one leg of the main breaker, so I may have to run a separate line for the AC. This is the first year that I have had all 3 loads.

Steve

rod, that is the first time i had it explained that way and now it makes sense, thank you!

if i dont get a unit with a sleeve i wonder if i can cut a wider hole and use plywood on the sides as if it would be a thinner window and the vents wouldnt be blocked?

[David Hostetler]

Rod beat me to it. You should be able to pretty easily tell. A LOT of Window unit A/Cs also double as through wall mount units they just throw different bolt on stuff in the box. It is best to check the particular unit you are interested in mounting up first... For example, I have a little 8K BTU Goldstar that I mounted in a "mini wall" that went in front of / in place of one of my rollup doors in my garage shop (until the HOA fussed). I simply slid it in from the outside of the rough opening, it had a lip that is supposed to keep it in place, that I just screwed through, to the framing of the mini wall. No vent blockage, no need for additional bracing. I did use some THICK foam weatherstripping to make this all work. I was pretty happy with it, my HOA on the other hand, not so much...

[Kevin Gregoire]

does anyone have any links to good sites with cheap prices on through wall units?

[David Hostetler]

Looking online doing a search for "Through Wall Air Conditioner" shows that they are not extremely common, and about twice the price per BTU compared to a window unit.

Considering your floor space, you might want to put a window in so you can use a Window unit.

[Kevin Gregoire]

a window wouldnt make much sense since from the door to the wall on that end is like 6 feet plus you wouldnt be able to see out anyway where i want to cut the hole.
maybe i will just make a bigger hole and then put in a good piece of ¾” plywood to act as a window and cut a hole in that for the a/c unit?
and yes a window unit is much cheaper then a wall unit (im still trying to figure that one out??)

and the big thing is i have never done anything like this before and dont want to spend the money to have a carpenter come do it cause it shouldnt be to hard i dont think?
i have one of those tools with the vibrator cutter (fein copy) and it works great at cutting wood, i was going to find a stud and cut next to it and then make the hole, put in a header and sill and pray i dont mess it up?

[David Hostetler]

Sounds like you are on the right track to me!

I don't see why you couldn't use a Window unit as long as you rigged it up right...

[Kevin Gregoire]

i would use a window unit if i cut a bigger hole in wall and then put in a thick piece of plywood. the plywood would act as the window but i would cut the hole tight to fit right around the a/c unit and not use those stupid plastic fold out wings.

[Kevin Gregoire]

i still havent decided which way i want to go, either a through wall type or a window type and just build something to simulate a window.

and i think im going to go with a 230 volt unit as nothing else is plugged into it except my heater in the winter.

but the a/c units have a different plug then my heater has. the a/c units have two flat blades (Plug 1)

and my heater has one flat and one upright but the plug on the wall has one flat and the other one is both flat and upright (Plug 2)
so i assume the wall outlet will accept the a/c plug? does anyone know for sure? not sure of the voltage ratings?


..........

[Kevin Gregoire]

can anyone help with my plug problem??

also, has anyone cut a hole in their shop wall and installed a window air unit? if so, how
did you do it??