Double sided tape seems like alot of wasted effort in my opinion.
Open and close the drawer a couple of times, paying attention to where it stops when it closes. Sometimes they kick one way or another, and you need to find the happy medium of where it will be stopping. Chances are you are bumping the drawer around as you are sticking the front on.
I use a couple of shop made shims, depending on how crazy I'm going with margins a couple of finish nails, or even brads work well using the head if I need to cheat a side up. I just put a piece of scrap in the chop box at a real shallow angle and cut them off to make a quick shim.
With the drawer box sitting about the best its going to get, set your drawer front in the opening and shim the bottom up to get an even reveal. If you've got one that looks like it'll be a real pain, raise the adjusters up a bit on the front/back of the drawer so you can really twist it around if neccessary. Then I just nail it in. You need to be careful that you aren't putting any pressure side to side on the drawer box as that'll pretty much hose your alignment. Open an close to double check, then pull it out and screw on the face.
Using the locking device with the adjustable stop is good as well. I actually set the slides a bit deep so they have to be adjusted forward to get them flush.
The Blum undermount slides, (actually all of the Blum hardware), are pretty much useless if you want to be using a 1/16" or less margin. The slides are too sloppy, the hinges don't kick the door into the opening enough to clear the face frame. there's a trade off to everything, I still use the Blum stuff, you just have to learn to work with the little nuiances, instead of them working against you.