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Thread: Router Raizer or upgrade router?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    New Haven County, CT
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    Router Raizer or upgrade router?

    I want to start working on learning how to make raised panel doors, etc. Dont have the $$$ (or space) for a shaper, so Im pretty much "stuck" with a router.

    I already have a Hitachi M12V, but dont have any good way to accurately raise/lower it easily (like would need to be done for a matched raised panel set).

    Im looking at the Milwaukee 5625 down to 250 at Amazon, or the Triton 3.25HP model for 255 at sears (good sale!), OR just getting a razier for my Hitachi.

    Any suggestions?

    Price wise, if I can sell the Hitachi its not much more to upgrade to a new router (taking into account the original cost of the Hitachi + 90 for the Raizer).

    Thanks in advance.

    -Chris

  2. #2
    I have the router raizer on my porter cable plunge router. It works well, but I'd sure rather have a router lift. The raizer renders the router less than useful off the table, at least as a plunge router. I'd wait, save my money, get a 3.25hp porter cable and get a good router lift.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Milwaukee
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    856
    I am wondering if there's any benefit to using a 3rd party router raising system in light of routers like the one's sold by Porter Cable that have above the table height adjustment built in.

    I just got a PC 890 series router, the 894PK. That's the one that's a fixed base router with a plunge base included in the kit. That set includes the ability to use the router in a table and adjust the cutter height from above the table. Very handy, I think.

    Why would I, or anyone else, with a system like that want a router raizer (or other)?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Conway, Arkansas
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    608
    I've got a freud 3 hp plunge router in a Unilift from woodpeckers and it works great. I made a raised panel last night with it actually . You will need a bit extender to do above the table bit changes though.

    Depending on what you want to spend, a "3+ hp" router motor only in a good lift would be nice for the above the table changes.

    However, if you look at the cost of a lift for $250-300 + the cost of building a table, fence etc you are getting close to the cost of a 1.5 hp shaper from grizzly for $498. Or if you shop around for a used 3Hp shaper from grizzly they really don't take up much more room than a router table.

    If I had it to do over I'd definitely go with a shaper (used 3HP grizzly) over the router lift/router path. Even the big routers just don't have the same power/cutter size for raised panels that a shaper will have.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
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    4,074

    The router raizer work well for me

    I have an FT2000E with router raizer. it does what I expect it to do. I took the springs out but put them back in per RouterRaizer's recommendation. I can change bits while the router is in the table. I remove all the rings from the router plate and bent the head of the factory wrench to about 30 degrees off straight. Grizzly has both models of the router raizer on sale. If you're really cheap, there's a guy that has an article on Wood Central's site. He made his own router raizer with hardware store parts. For what Grizzly is charging, it probably isn't worthwhile. I agree that plunge routers equipped with the router raizer are difficult to use outside the table. I took the handles off my Freud; it is dedicated to the table. 13 lb. routers are pretty heavy to use handheld IMO.

  6. #6

    Router Raizer

    I have a RR installed in a two-yr old 3-1/4 HP Triton, permanely parked in a table, and I love it. It performs well.

    Today's newer Triton models do not require raisers because they are built-in to the router. They can also be purchased for $229 (last time I checked) at such places like Woodcrafters, Peachtree, etc.

    Good luck and happy WWing,
    Bob

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Independence, MO, USA.
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    2,474
    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=61607

    How about this option? Then you make a pattern block, so it is always the same.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Saratoga Springs, Utah
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    805
    I have the M12V connected to a Woodpeckers Plungelift lift and it works well. I always pull the router and lift up to change bits anyway, but I like the adjustbility of the lift and it works well. I have used raised panel sets on it.

    I dont know if Woodpeckers still sells it. When I searched for it on their site, I could not find it, but I did find it on their site, when I googled router lifts for M12V routers. I paid about $180 for it about 3 years ago.
    Sawdust is some of the best learning material!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Saratoga Springs, Utah
    Posts
    805
    I have left my M12V in the table though. I have a M12VC 2.25 hp that I use for all of my hand held work. I could use a Bosch Colt too!
    Sawdust is some of the best learning material!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Conway, Arkansas
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    608
    Quote Originally Posted by Brent Ring View Post
    I have the M12V connected to a Woodpeckers Plungelift lift and it works well. I always pull the router and lift up to change bits anyway, but I like the adjustbility of the lift and it works well. I have used raised panel sets on it.

    I dont know if Woodpeckers still sells it. When I searched for it on their site, I could not find it, but I did find it on their site, when I googled router lifts for M12V routers. I paid about $180 for it about 3 years ago.
    The Plungelift is canceled the only have the Unilift now.

  11. #11
    Chris,
    I got my inspiration from Jon at Eagle Lake Woodworking.
    Look for their website and search for the mororized router lift.

    For mine, I removed the plunge springs and cut off the tabs that hold the guide templates. I took off the height adjust knob and now chucked a 5/16 nut in its place coupled to a 4V 1/4" motorized screw driver. Works very well for razing panels. Accurate too!

    I didn't go for the fixed screwdriver and external raising/lowering control but it works well for the small volume of routing I do. Best of all, I made it for the cost of less than $5 with change left over :d

    JW

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    LA & SC neither one is Cali
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    7,133
    Quote Originally Posted by John Piwaron View Post
    I am wondering if there's any benefit to using a 3rd party router raising system in light of routers like the one's sold by Porter Cable that have above the table height adjustment built in.
    A GOOD router lift is a much better solution than a flipped plunge router. The ease of use and accuracy are a whole different ball game. If you are going to flip a pluge the best bets are Freud or Triton the rest are significantly compromised in use. If you leave them in the table get the 3+hp version if you are going to move them in and out and use them hand hled on occasion then get the 2 1/4hp version. If you are are going to get a quality lift (~$300) get either a PC 7518 or Milwaukee 5625 motor.

    Shaper vs router table is really an apples and oranges equation, for most woodworkers a router table makes the most sense, there are a few that a shaper alone makes sense but most that need a shaper probably could use a router table as well.

    A router table with a 7518 and good lift along with a Dewalt 621 and a Bosch Colt with a good selection of quality bits may be the most versatile set of power tools in a shop. When you are thinking about how to solve a complex problem in woodworking there is an awful good chance the most elegant solution to said problem will involve a router.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    West Central Illinois, Rural Wataga, IL
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    the Triton ROCKS

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