Filling the Grain In Red Oak bead detail

[Steven Green]

I'm getting ready to put the face frames on a kitchen full of red oak. They will have the standard shaker bead detail on the inner lip of all the doors and drawers. I'm trying to decide if and how to fill the pores on the frames including the bead. Any suggestions?

[Mike Null]

A number of years back I made a kitchen table top from red oak. I did not fill the pores and have regretted it ever since. It's been a great table and gets hard use but the finish, which is polyurethane, would have looked so much better had I filled it first.

I should also add that more care in selecting the wood would have helped as well.

[Prashun Patel]

What type of topcoat are you putting on? That (for me) would dictate the decision to grain fill. Also, how wide are yr face frames?

My instinct is that grain filling the face frames is not worth it. Grain filling makes the most sense on broad, high gloss, horizontal surfaces that get a lot of direct touching and raking light. You won't notice this on most face frames, and certainly not on the bead detail.

[Joe Chritz]

I have never filled a surface that wasn't a regular use horizontal surface.

If you really want to fill it you would do so just like any other surface. Put it on, let it haze and sand back. Obviously there are a few other steps in there but you get the idea.

Joe

[Steve Schoene]

The bead does add complication to the process, but you do have a scraper to remove excess pore filler. It's the router or shaper bit you used to cut the bead. Use by hand.

[Greg Portland]

I have had a lot of success with Bartley's wood grain filler. Unfortunately, they have gone out of business. You might be able to find some old stock on the shelves.

Jeff Jewitt describes his method for using the product HERE.