Need detached shop construction costs

[Josh Bowman]

Mines about the same size, but not divided, just 1400 ft2 of 10 ft high ceiling. Since it's half underground, it's block on 3 sides. Matches the house pretty good. I had a lot of excavating costs, I also put all it's and the house electic underground. Anyway it came in at about 28k. I did all the wiring, plumbing but hired everything else out.

[Brian Elfert]

If you're using SIPs and have never done it before I think you'll be happier with the results if you hire an experienced crew to install them. A crew will generally do a better job getting the joints sealed and air tight.

[Wes Billups]

Well we've got a contract on the house I mentioned earlier. It'll probably be late next year before we break any ground on the shop. The picture below shows where I hope to put the shop (black rectangles to the left of the pool).

Thanks for everyone's input. I've got a lot of work to do to get my current house contents moved and need to setup a temporary shop in the third stall of the new house. I'll be asking a lot more questions as time goes on plus try to keep everyone updated on the new shop as these are my favorite threads.

Wes

[Don Jarvie]

Since you have some time between now and the ground breaking, make a list of everything you want in the shop and do some research as to the cost and everything associated with the idea.

You may want catherdral ceilings so you can move 2x4s and 4x8 plywood around and not hit anything. Does it add to the cost but the extra money is worth it?

Also in the mean time I would read everything I could get me hands on for ideas, etc. Your probably going to do this once so make it how you want it.

[eugene thomas]

catherdral ceilings, best thing i i had designed in myshop. was going to have 10' high ceiling but went to architect and she told me if wanted shop to match future house promised wife needed steaper roof, so droped ceiling to 8'. I have around 13' in center of grage with catherdral ceilings . Coast $800.00 dollars more but thats based on 34' x 50" grage and the $75.00 paid for hours time of the architect.

[Andrew Nemeth]

If you're using SIPs and have never done it before I think you'll be happier with the results if you hire an experienced crew to install them. A crew will generally do a better job getting the joints sealed and air tight.

I would not hesitate for a minute to install SIPs myself (with a friend or two of course). There are several how to manuals available online and your SIP supplier may have one specific to their product. I would think most SIPs suppliers would be happy to answer installation questions and may even send a rep out onsight if there is one in the area. My expirience is that building supply companies peddling new technologies go above and beyond to make EVERY project go well.

[Rick Potter]

Before making that offer, I suggest you check with the local planning and building depts. to make sure you can build what you want. Many have size limitations, height limitations, etc. Also check for deed restrictions and easements. I found out my property had an easement that went back to 1898, and I had to get it removed.

Rick Potter

[Dave Wagner]

Yes, always check local building codes, for sizes, setbacks, heights, etc...if you need a zoning permit or not, a building permit is usually always required, sometimes drawings and structual calcs are also required.

My 24'x30' garage (Slab on grade) was a bit over $10K roughed in, (basically, concrete, walls, roof, windows and man door) I had to finish the rest. So, I probably have another $5K into it.

Good luck.

[Clay Baldwin]

My wife and I built a timberframe 5 years ago and you can't go wrong with SIP's. Your wall panels won't be hard to put in place, but the gable ends depending on your height will be a challenge. Our gable panels were approx. 26' at the peak. Great people at InSulSpan for the panels. I see your in Marysville, Ohio, we're up north in Chardon. Lots of snow. I'm alittle jealous of this shop, it'll be great to see some pics when done. Enjoy!

[J. Linwood Jackson]

I would move it back away from the house more. not sure how much room you got back there..but..move it back another 50' or so. with it that close to the house..you can hear the machines...and that pool is grabbing out for it to become the pool house...which you dont want...

[Joe Hennessey]

I'd love to add a bathroom but have no idea what it would cost to run water and septic to this location.

Wow, my first post!

Newbie on here but I gotta tell you that NOT running the water & septic to your shop while you have an excavator on site is (or will be) a big mistake.
You'll be kicking yourself in the behind later. Had a shop with no facilities once, not something you want.

9' sidewalls made with 6" structural insulated panels.

Since you're planning for attic storage, that means a flat ceiling?

9' ceilings are too low. When you flip a board end for end and it hits the ceiling or light fixture will be "Wish I had a taller ceiling" moment.
Ck with the SIPs people, another foot shouldn't add much although a 12' ceiling is better. It also allows plenty of room for shelves high on the wall.

Joe H

[Rob Damon]

Had 1200sf shop built a few years ago. The two best decisions was 10' ceilings and putting in a bath room.

With a 10' ceiling I can lift and flip 4'x8' sheet of plywood without hitting anything.

With a bathroom, you can use it late at night when working in the shop and you can use it during the day when you are working in the yard/garden and your shoes are really muddy. You dont' have worry about going into the house and messing up the floors.

Rob