Pentz Cyclone/Sheldon fan/Leeson Motor

[Phil Winn]

Hi,
I am building a Pentz Cyclone with the Sheldon Fan and the Leeson
Motor...I am TRYING to attach the Sheldon fan to the Leeson motor
shaft but it is not working that well...

Is this correct?
1. I reattached the JA 7/8" compression fitting to the bladed side of the fan,
just so perhaps 1mm of the compression fitting stuck into the fan and pushed
this onto the 7/8" Leeson shaft making sure the key slots lined up.
Then I tighten the 3 allen head bolts so that it pulled everything together.
Then I inserted the "key", and tightened the allen set bolt.
Now the compression fitting is "in" the fan perhaps 5mm (0.5cm), looking
from a side view with the compression fitting being a "T" resting upon
the fan, the distance between the bottom edge of the top of the "T" and the
fan is 1cm or about 3/8". Does this seem correct? It seems like
a really tight fit---but I wouldn't want the fan to fall off.....

2. The Sheldon fan is made from steel plate which is welded. While
the workmanship is as good as can be expected, the bottom of the fan,
the "disc" is not "perfectly" flat. Now the fan is on the shaft, there are six
segments on the fan (between the blades) and the distance between the
bottom of the fan and the blower motor plate vary
slightly-31mm, 31mm, 30mm, 31mm, 32mm, 31mm. When I turned the
fan on--WOW its very powerful!, it seemed OK-no wobble that I
could tell.

3. I made the blower according to Pentz' plans with MDF top and bottom
and sheet metal sides and long bolts holding it together. IF the fan
fell off while running, would this "blower" keep the fan inside it? Or would
the fan break though the blower and perhaps harm me???? Would the
Echols blower unit be a much better option for this reason? Is the fan coming off a real concern?

4. Mounting...what works better:
A. Attaching from the motor base?
B. Attaching from the motor plate?
C. Making a frame and supporting the "waist" of the cyclone?
D. Other?

Thanks so much--any help would be appreciated!
Phil

[Ron Schweitzer]

Chris documented his build of the cyclone very well, your answers may be here.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=9933
Ron

[Sparky Paessler]

Here are some instructions that I used.

If you are installing the normal counter-clockwise-rotation (as viewed from the blade side of the blower wheel) 14" impeller from Sheldon’s Engineering on a motor that has a 7/8" shaft, normally no instructions are provided with the
wheel. The following procedure is provided to assist you in getting a proper installation.
1. Remove the three screws that hold the QD-style split, tapered bushing in the hub that is welded to the center of
the blower wheel’s backplate, then remove the bushing.
2. Take one of the screws, and insert it, one at a time, into each of the threaded holes in the split, tapered bushing, and verify that it can be screwed all the way through the hole with no significant resistance due to paint or other interference. If the screw does not go smoothly through all three threaded holes, use a matching tap to chase the threads and clean out any paint or debris before continuing with the assembly. Failure to perform this step will result in incorrect torque values when tightening the impeller onto the bushing later in the procedure. When finished, remove the screw and place it with the other two.
3. Place a 3/16" square key at least 1 inch long (usually supplied with the motor) in the keyway on the motor shaft, then slide the key toward the motor body until it cannot be moved any farther while still fully down in the
keyway slot. Align the split, tapered bushing with the key, then slide it onto the shaft with its big end toward the motor. Position it so that the face of the large end is flush with the end of the key, then verify that the key
cannot be moved any farther toward the motor — that it is all the way to the end of the slot. Use an Allen wrench to fully tighten the setscrew in the QD split bushing so that it engages the key and holds it firmly in position.
4. Before placing the impeller on the hub, use a clean, dry cloth to wipe the outside of the tapered part of the bushing and the interior of the hub on the impeller to make sure there is no debris or other contamination that
could interfere with the proper seating of the hub over the bushing.
5. Align the unthreaded holes in the impeller hub so that they match the corresponding threaded holes in the split bushing on the motor shaft, then gently slide the impeller onto the split bushing. Insert the three bolts supplied
with the impeller into the three unthreaded holes in the hub, then screw them into the matching threaded holes in the split bushing. Screw them in until the heads of the three screws rest against the hub and the impeller is lightly seated around the split bushing.
6. Carefully tighten the three screws a bit more so that the bushing will not slide on the motor shaft, then carefully rotate the impeller as you observe it from the side. Watch the distance between wheel and the motor mounting
plate to make sure there is no wobble. There should be very little wobble, if any at all, other than normal distortion in the metal from welding.
7. If the impeller is running true with no wobble, tighten one of the screws until the torque required to turn the screw reaches 6 foot-pounds (72 inch-pounds). Repeat for the other two screws, tightening each one to 6 footpounds. Repeat, one more time: tighten all three screws again to 6 foot-pounds, but do not tighten any more once the torque is reached a second time. Do not oil or lubricate the screws in any way before installing them. Torque specifications are for clean, dry screws only. The spacing between the blower wheel backplate and the motor mounting plate should be about 1/2" to 3/4", but may be more, depending on the length of the slot and length of the shaft on the motor.
Impeller removal:
Should you ever need to remove the impeller, remove the three screws, insert them into the threaded holes in the hub that is welded to the blower wheel, then use them as pushers to force the hub away from the split bushing holding it to the shaft. Remove the blower wheel from the split bushing, loosen the set screw holding the key, then slide the bushing off of the shaft.


Hope this helps.

[Phil Winn]

I am trying to put the Sheldon's fan /compression fitting on to the Leeson motor 7/8" shaft---and I have some questions--

1. How far did the compression bushing slide into the sheldons fan?
If from the side, the compression fitting is a "T" and the fan is the line the letter "T" is on, then from off to on, the difference is 5mm (0.5cm or aprrox 3/8")--is this enough? (The bushing slide in 5mm or 3/8" into the fan)...

2. How far did your compression fitting slide into the fan?
Thanks,
Phil

[Sparky Paessler]

Phil

It's been several months since I assemblied mine. I will pull it out tonight and look at it.

[Phil Winn]

That would be great--I will sleep much better! My compression
bushing goes into the fan about 5mm (0.5cm or about 3/8")...therefore
about 1cm exposed between the fan and the bottom of the "T" of the bushing...

The total "shaft of the bushing is about 1.5cm...
Thanks,
Phil

[Chris Padilla]

Phil,

Did anything I sent you help out? Let me know.

[Sparky Paessler]

Phil

I took a picture of my impeller's bushing. Hope this helps. Oh I've been called much worse than Sandy.

[Phil Winn]

The pictures and note were very helpful--thanks.
We tested the unit---and WOW; Mr. Bill Pentz did
a wonderful job designing this DC.
Thanks once again,
Phil

[Chris Padilla]

Does it suck?