Hello,
I'm going to build a dining room set and have a couple of design issues I'd like to get some feedback on.
First, I'll describe the situation and let you in on how I got where I am. Our dining room is 13'x14' and has doors on 3 walls. So not only is it small and square, but it also has to allow "traffic".
We looked at some square table designs, but just didn't identify with them. In addition, we were concerned that a square design may not fit well in another home.
So, then the discussion moved to how big do we want it to be on a daily basis and how can we expand for entertaining. In general, we are against leaves for a bunch of reasons. The only one I cared for was a butterfly leaf, but it didn't do it for my wife.
SO, the design solution I came up with is to make 3 tables. The main table will be 66"x40" (seating 4 regularlly, 5 or 6 in a pinch). The 2 additional tables will each be 40"x20". The idea being that they are "free standing leaves", but have other uses...back to back as a 40" square "kids" table and end to end as a 80"x40" serving table.
The challenge with this is that the small tables must be free standing, but not interfere with a seated diner's legs. So, the direction is to inset the "back" legs. Worst case, when not in use as a leaf, they would lean against the wall or each other. But I didn't want the small tables to be "different" from the main tables, so I made sure that the leg layout would work on the main table as well...but I did end up with 8 legs on it, to make it "look right". Although a bit busy and I'm still tweaking material sizes to make it balanced, I believe its working....let me know if you think otherwise!
Also, of note, is the way I'm going to "attach" the leaves. I'm going to have to test the idea out, but what I'm thinking is that, near the end of the table, I will rout a pocket in from underneath and insert some neo-magnets. I will plug the pockets once all is dialed in, but the concept is that the force will be strong enough that it will hold the edges tightly together, but not be difficult to separate. Any one tried this? I'll be ordering 2 of many strength magnets to try and dial this in.
Now onto the reason I'm posting. I have a couple of joinery ideas that I like aesthetically, but I'm little skeptical about their durability.
One joint is essentially a M&T, but is executed like a reverse through dovetail...kinda. I got the idea from a knock down joint I saw in American Woodworker(circa 1999). It was a large single dovetail with a shoulder to limit insertion. My idea is to keep the shoulder, but break it into 2 dovetails...more attractive. My concern is 2 fold, is there enough non-end grain glue surface (helped by making it 2 dovetails) and is the socket inherently weak (leverage cause it to crack)?
The other is connecting the stretchers on a 45degree angle...on the corners of the legs. The "correct way" to do this would be to mill a flat and M&T. But I don't want to give up the corner of the leg (aesthetically). So, I'm considering 2 things: 1)mill the flat to match the cross-section of the stretcher, which would create a triangle overhang(and underhang). my concern with this is that racking forces would cause the triangle to split; 2) make the shoulders of the tenoned stretcher on a 45, to socket against the legs sides; but I'm concerned that this could cause the stretcher to split.
Lastly, I am somewhat keying on the through dovetail as a design feature that I will carry over to the chairs. But I'm not sure that I have a comfortable design (I took the geometry from the Chair design book).
Any thoughts are welcome.
Thanks in advance,
M.J.
P.S. I almost forgot, the big spark of this project is the lumber I found for the top. A bookmatched pair of "musical" Claro Walnut boards...each 20"x108".
P.P.S. I don't know how to insert the pics in the right places, so they are stuffed here on the end.
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