Need a very durable paint finish

[Rich Engelhardt]

Personally - for extreme durability I've always used Glidden Polyureathane Floor enamel.

It meets spec, TT-E-487E, which puts it in the same neighborhood as Imron and Polane.

Don't let the "poly" part throw you off.

These "polys" are to typical over the counter clear poly as hardened steel is to pot metal.

[Scott Holmes]

Glidden Polyurethane Floor Enamel

Rich, I'm sure it out performs any OTC Poly!

Now here's a switch... It's a alkyd resin paint there is no urethane resin in it!

Seems they are using the "Poly" name to market it.

[Jerome Hanby]

Sorry for the minor hijack, but this is kinda related. I did a "similar" project and my wife and daughter picked out the colors and did the painting. They got various shades of pink (God help me) mixed at Lowes. Pretty sure it was their run of the mill interior latex. May work fine for walls, but this thing gets too many touches and the paint tends to stick to anything placed on the shelves. Any product out there that would work to top coat this stuff so it would be smooth and hard? Just disassembled this thing (a huge dollhouse looking bed) and moved it to the new house, so it needs some touch up and now would be a good time to do something about the finish.

Thanks

[Rich Engelhardt]

Jerome,
As long as what you have on now has been cured for a few months, the Benj. Moore Impvervo mentioned above should work fine.
Just lighty scuff sand what's on there now and go over it w/the Benny Moore.


Scott,
hehe, yeah,,,anything that's anything these days has "Poly" in the name.
30/35 years ago it was "Epoxy".
Everything was "Epoxy" or "Epoxy Fortified".

[Scott Holmes]

I disagree with Rich on top coating the latex.

The trait you are expereincing is called "blocking" The latex will continue to block and anything on top will come off with it.

Your best bet is to strip the latex and apply a quality enamel paint in the sheen you want when finished. Oil based paint will be a bit more durable, but for a doll house it should not matter. A good primer for the paint you choose is a good practice.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I'd only strip the old finish if it wasn't adhering, had so many layers applied it was hiding details or if my planned top coat wasn't compatible.

From the description of the problem, none of these seem to apply.

To the OP:
If the blocking is so severe it's causing the latex to come off down to the bare surface or a previous coat, then stripping it off and starting over is the way to go.

[Jerome Hanby]

This monstrosity is built from MDF, so I shellacked everything prior to painting. The blocking isn't terrible, just annoying. Biggest problem is that the finish isn't very tough and every little bump leaves a spot to touch up...

[Joe Chritz]

You aren't really out much by trying so you could always prime with BIN and put down a quality acrylic paint. Several have been mentioned above.

Worst case is it doesn't last and you have to strip it, which is essentially where you are now.

Joe

[Scott Holmes]

What shellac did you use? If it wasn't Zinsser seal coat or the aerosol can. Then the shellac had wax in it and the latex will come off very easily.