Going from 110 volt to 220 volt

[Rick Huelsbeck]

When I get my shop done (Saturday if all goes to plan ) it is going to have enough circuits to run my equipment that will run on 110 or 220, to be used on 220. I really hate cutting off plugs and putting on new plugs. I just don't feel safe doing it even though I know it is. So 2 things come to mind, All new cords with plugs designed to go into 220 outlets, or do they make an adapter for plugging the 110 volt male plug into that can then be plugged into then 220 outlet. I would prefer the cord method, but that can be expensive.

If anyone has a source for either I sure would appreciate that.

[Cliff Holmes]

You might want to reconsider doing it at all. The benefits of 220 vs 110 are minimal at best.

[Roger Jensen]

I predict you'll become comfortable changing plugs and cords in the very near future!

Obviously, there is more to it than just changing the plug to go from 110 to 220. You should come up with a strategy for which plug type you're going to use, and the size cord you need (depending on length and amp requirements).

You don't want an adaptor for a 110 plug. You'll have to rewire the cord to the tool (you can't use the same wiring setup you have for 110), and you don't want to accidentally plug it into 110 after you have made the change.

As Cliff has mentioned, you don't want to do it just to do it. I only run 220 on two tools, my Hammer J/P and my SawStop TS. They only run on 220.


Roger

[Ken Fitzgerald]

The cheapest method is to put 220 plugs on existing cords and it's really not that difficult.

As others have stated though, there really is no great benefit. There are a lot of misinformation about this out there as to the benefits.

I built a new shop 5 years ago. I installed a separate meter and 200 amp service. I have plenty of 220 and 110 outlets. My new lathe and my bandsaw require 220vac and those I have wired for 220. My table saw still remains at 110 vac. I have plenty of outlets at both voltage levels.

[Jamie Buxton]

.... I really hate cutting off plugs and putting on new plugs. I just don't feel safe doing it even though I know it is. ..

You do understand that you must convert each machine to 220? Generally, you must open cover plates and move wire connections inside each motor. If you feel comfortable doing that, changing plugs should be a piece of cake.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

You do understand that you must convert each machine to 220? Generally, you must open cover plates and move wire connections inside each motor. If you feel comfortable doing that, changing plugs should be a piece of cake.

OH YEAH! That minor detail too!

[Rick Huelsbeck]

I know I have to re-wire the motor, and the primary benefit for me is I will not need to pull as many amps/circuits. I'm going to do a 100 Amp sub-panel off of the main. I have 4 pieces of equipment that can run on 220. At 220 vac I will pull 7 amp at the most where as with it a 110 I'm going to pull 15 or more. I will only need 2 circuits at 220 vac 20 amp circuits where as with 110 I'm going to need 4 110 vac 20 amp circuits.

Currently I'm running a 3/4 hp lathe and well I'm starting to get the itch for bigger since I'm going to have more room so 220 vac is in the future anyway .

[Darius Ferlas]

I made myself 2 one foot extension cords that allow me to use the 110 plug that came with the machine. The extension cord will accept that one one end and it will plug into a 220 receptacle on the other. So far, upon further investigation and after learning a lot from this forum, I haven't had the need for them.

As others said, in some cases going to 220 is art for art's sake. I have Ridgid TS that uses 13 amps @ 110 and I could feel how it wasn't all it could be on a 15 am circuit. I upgraded the circuit to 20 amps and it runs as well as it would on 6.5 amps @ 220.

I only used 220 for machines where the amperage they use would go to close to the 75% (?) of the allowed/recommended load for the circuit to which they are connected.

[Mitchell Andrus]

If you have the opportunity, you might as well run a few. This will leave your tool buying options open to a greater range later.

As to 220V plugs.... they are made to avoid accidentally overloading a circuit. A plug on a tool that draws 20 amps shouldn't be plugged into a circuit designed to deliver 15 amps. The spades are different and are marked for the max amps the circuit is designed for and changing the outlet to fit the plug is a no-no. 15 amp wire, 15 amp female, 15 amp male on a <15 amp tool. Run the circuits so you don't overload them. 20 and 30 amp circuits are the norm.

Google difference between 110 and 220 for more.
.

[Steve Milito]

I made myself 2 one foot extension cords that allow me to use the 110 plug that came with the machine. The extension cord will accept that one one end and it will plug into a 220 receptacle on the other. So far, upon further investigation and after learning a lot from this forum, I haven't had the need for them.

I think that is dangerous. The whole purpose of having different receptacles is to prevent you from plugging a 110v appliance into a 220v receptacle. Not only can it cause a fire, but it also may potentially energize the chassis causing a shock hazard.

[Prashun Patel]

I just finished rewiring my jointer for 220. It's easy. Get a good plug with screw down clamps; you can use the existing cord. Then your manual will have a diagram of how to switch the wires in the motor or switchplate. I think that's more 'safe' than finding a retrofit plug.

As far as the benefit of 220 over 110, I've concluded that there is a benefit to improved motor life due to less strain at higher loads or long lines. However, contrary to popular belief, there is no power consumption savings.

[Darius Ferlas]

I think that is dangerous. The whole purpose of having different receptacles is to prevent you from plugging a 110v appliance into a 220v receptacle. Not only can it cause a fire, but it also may potentially energize the chassis causing a shock hazard.

It certainly is dangerous to connect 110 equipment to a 220 circuit, and perhaps even illegal in a somewhat more formal environment. No arguing there.

For my one man gang shop setup the idea was not to chop original plugs off and being fully aware what gets connected to what, all receptacles clearly marked. As I wrote, I never used those little extensions and they sit in the drawer somewhere. Your response is much appreciated though. It actually gave me a reason to find those extensions and dismantle them, in case someone unaware of what the're looking at lays their hands on them.

[Don Jarvie]

220 becomes valuable when you get larger motors with more HP. Some of the older 3hp motors draw over 25 amps at 110 so with 220 you cut that in half.

220 also allows you to use smaller wires - 12 g will run 220 with a 20a double breaker. If your going to use a large motor on 110 you need to use 10g or if the motor is really big 8g.

Also, 220 will draw less current so if you are using a DC and the TS at the same time 220 will cut the total amps in half. This is good if you are only pulling 40 or 50 amps total in the panel for the shop.

Rewiring the motors and putting on new plugs is easy to do.

[Scott Holmes]

NOTE: Not all 120V motors can be rewired to 240V.

FYI it's been 120V & 240V in the USA since just after WW II

[Chip Lindley]

The 120v/240v thing has been debated to death here!

If a machine needs to be run on 240v, IT WILL TELL YOU! Breakers trip! Motors overheat and trip their reset button!

If motors spin up to speed instantly on 120v without making the house lights flicker, and perform as expected, all is well. Otherwise....consider converting to 240v.