Hi guys,
Just got back from my holiday to the States, where I picked up some t-track (2x 24") and additional stuff at Grizzly, to finally build my drill press table. Which plan is the best one to follow?
Thanx in advance.
Hi guys,
Just got back from my holiday to the States, where I picked up some t-track (2x 24") and additional stuff at Grizzly, to finally build my drill press table. Which plan is the best one to follow?
Thanx in advance.
Erik
The Netherlands
I'll give this a shot. I got a Shop Notes mag a while ago, and made the table that was in it. It's pretty nice and functional. Movable fence, and T-track on the fence for stops. Google "shop notes drill press table" and you can buy one or just take a look at the pic and build in your own dimensions. It's pretty basic. I was able to build one.
One that gives you:
- a fence that can move back far enough to allow decent depth of position.
- a split fence is nice for dust collection.
- a flat bottom surface around the edge so you can clamp to it.
- a replaceable insert so you can swap them out as required.
- a way to employ hold downs front to back and in close for holding small stuff.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Though, I haven't had an extreme need to build an auxiliary table for my 17-DX you can find a few plans here along with some other pertinent stuff.
I do use my beater xy compound cross slide vise a lot.
Redheads are like other women – only more so
Agreed. Detailed refinements you might consider:
1) I have a solid (not split) fence, simply because that's what I wanted. Roughly 3" tall, 2" deep, 34" long. Hard Maple. Tee-track running horizontally on the face, to allow for end-stops. Also - the holes that the bolts/knobs run through to tighten the fence - I made them elongated holes, so the fence can be locked down at an angle (if they were just round holes, the fence would bind at an angle).
2) the insert - I made my table out of 2 layers of 3/4" ply (also HM). My insert is a 4-1/2" circle in the top layer only, and the circle is offset from center so that it can be rotated to put a fresh surface under the bit (not my original idea - saw it somewhere else - SMC, IIRC). Flip it over when trashed to get a new face. I made 7-8 inserts as a batch to have some inventory.
3) Hold-downs: The Rockler hold-downs are great - better than I expected (photo below). I got them after I had built the table. I wish I had put my inner tee-tracks closer to the table center so they could reach shorter parts. Also, I have a pair of Destaco 609 straight-line clamps (rubber feet) that hold parts against the fence. I use these when the target can't be held by the hold-downs (too big/tall/etc).
When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.
Hello guys,
Thanx for your reply and the referring to the several ShopNotes issues, this helps me a lot. I do like the idea of Kent with the offcenter inlay centerpiece. I will adopt this.
Pictures will be posted when finished.
Erik
The Netherlands